Lost Model Alarm
#21
Posted 23 January 2011 - 03:06 PM
If you are using a 2.4GHz Futaba R/C system then you will never experience false R/C signal loss. Any signal loss that is detected will be real and significant (and useful if you allow the LOMA to report it). So, I don't recommend that you perform the silence modification.
#22
Posted 23 January 2011 - 03:52 PM
or I could draw like please, you do not quite understand the lyrics?
and with respect to the futaba 2.4, what happens is that if I turn off the transmitter, the alarm is not active, the receiver stores the last signal received, then it is as if he were still arriving signal and activates the hill I never , turning the transmitter.
thanks
Both of your drawings are incorrect. All you do is disconnect pin-2 on the PIC from the other circuitry. Then connect pin 2-to pin-8. EVERYTHING else is the same.
If you are using a 2.4GHz Futaba R/C system then you will never experience false R/C signal loss. Any signal loss that is detected will be real and significant (and useful if you allow the LOMA to report it). So, I don't recommend that you perform the silence modification.
#25
Posted 04 June 2011 - 03:09 PM
Please help me and thank you.
#26
Posted 06 June 2011 - 09:39 AM
#27
Posted 16 June 2011 - 07:29 AM
I'm having a bit of a problem with buzzers as well. I bought the following but for some reason, they don't seem to work until I discovered that the buzzers seem to be external drives:
http://www.maplin.co...ransducer-98112
I've tried sourcing others but can't quite put my hands on any. Off to have another hoke(look) but if anyone can shed light this side of pond I'd be grateful.
Regards
Declan
#28
Posted 16 June 2011 - 10:02 AM
No experience with it, but maybe this one will work:
http://www.maplin.co...indicator-98109
Edited by Mr.RC-Cam, 16 June 2011 - 06:28 PM.
Added maplin part number
#29
Posted 17 June 2011 - 02:52 AM
I've noticed that if the part's catalog description only mentions "piezo transducer" then it usually requires an external drive. The ones with internal drives (which LoMA requires) usually mentions "buzzer" or "built-in oscillator" in their description. No doubt there are exceptions, so simply review the data sheet -- it will tell all the details.
No experience with it, but maybe this one will work:
http://www.maplin.co...indicator-98109
Cheers. Many thanks
Just ordered some up. Don't know how I missed that one!!
Declan
#30
Posted 03 August 2011 - 01:49 PM
Is is possible to convert the code to a Pic12F675?
I have several available here so it would be great to use them for this.
Thanks.
#31
Posted 03 August 2011 - 02:37 PM
#32
Posted 04 August 2011 - 12:47 PM
Your version seemed easier to use and with some added cool features compared to others I've seen.
I just feel too lazy to go and do one.
Thanks anyway.
#33
Posted 04 May 2012 - 06:05 PM
I was looking for a LMA project and then I run into your LMA.
I have some 1uF tantalum caps laying around, would it be possible use them instead of .1uF ?
Thanks,
Christian
#34
Posted 04 May 2012 - 07:05 PM
#35
Posted 04 May 2012 - 07:32 PM
Another question.
I have this buzzer with the following specs;
Oscillation Frequency (Hz) 3000 ± 500
Operating Voltage (Vdc) 1.5 ~ 30
Rated Voltage (Vdc) 12
Current Consumption (mA/max) 12 at Rated Voltage
Sound Pressure Level (dB/min) 80 at 30cm at Rated Voltage
My question is, I will use this LMA in a Plank and my battery pack is aroung 6V.
In my understand, I need to get 12V to have the louder db (as rated voltage) Is there a way to double my battery pack voltage (6v) to have a louder noise ?
#36
Posted 04 May 2012 - 08:40 PM
This tells me it is a piezo sounder and not a buzzer. The item you have requires an oscillator driver circuit whereas the one spec'd for the project will make noise simply by applying 5VDC to it.Operating Voltage (Vdc) 1.5 ~ 30
Also, the PIC will be damaged by 6V so you need to add a 5V Voltage Regulator to the LoMA. Or perhaps drop the power supply voltage with a couple of series diodes in the Vcc supply.
But to answer your question, if you want to operate the buzzer on a voltage higher than 5V then you will need to add a transistor stage to drive it. I'll leave that part up to you.
#37
Posted 04 May 2012 - 09:10 PM
I can remove one cell from the pack.
Check the link of the a buzzer a have
http://www.mallory-s.../PK-21N30WQ.pdf
I have read the some diodes can do that, Do you agree ?
#38
Posted 05 May 2012 - 10:15 AM
I don't have any experience with it so I can't say if it is a good choice. If it has an internal oscillator, works on 5V, and requires less than 40mA, then it should be fine.Check the link of the a buzzer a have
FWIW, I have found that high frequency alert tones are not good choices for a lost model alarm. The higher frequency tones are often too directional and attenuate too quickly for this application. So try to select one that has the lowest possible audio tone frequency and highest sound pressure spec. The buzzer recommended in the project (http://products.cui....pdf?fileID=8247) works fine using ~2.3KHz and is quite loud). I don't recommend anything with a frequency that is much higher than that.
Diodes can be used to drop the power supply voltage. Be sure that the PIC never sees more than about 5.25V with a fully charged pack.I have read the some diodes can do that, Do you agree ?
#39
Posted 07 May 2012 - 06:27 AM

Only thing I am in doubt, I applied power over the buzzer terminals and I could not hear a sound. Does it need the PIC in order to produce the frequencies or it should do a noise without the PIC ?
Edited by chrispaiva, 07 May 2012 - 06:30 AM.
#40
Posted 07 May 2012 - 07:20 AM



