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  2. I think that some 555 timer based servo signal emulators have unusual repetition rates that could affect PanCam's operation. For correct operation the servo pulse signal should be a standard 50Hz repetition rate (20mS period).
  3. Thanks so much. I do have a 555 servo circuit that uses a POT. I will give you feedback once I have constructed and tested the circuit with your Pan-Cam circuit design.
  4. Direct connection to a POT is not supported. A servo tester can be used instead of a R/C system.
  5. The connection J1 (RC In) Pin 7 of the PIC12F509 is used for the input of the R/C RX CHNL. Is there perhaps an alternative method of rather using a variable resistor (POT) to connect to Pin 7, VCC and GND? Joy sticks are usually available with a 10k or 20k variable resistor. I will not need a R/C since I will be using this Pan Cam Project for a JIB Arm (Camera Crane) to control the Pan and Tilt operation and the distance is only 4 meters. Any advice will be highly appreciated.
  6. Earlier
  7. I don't have that vRx to measure. In a traditional design the video output would be AC coupled using a large value series capacitor, so measured resistance would be infinite. But some newer vRx designs have an alternate video drive circuit that eliminated this big cap to save space, so some measured resistance is possible. Your meter is warning you to change the battery. Be aware that readings may be inaccurate if the battery is low. Your link is for SAW filter replacement. It was also discussed on this forum many hears ago:
  8. I learn a lot about this forum and thank you. So for you this value is normal? I did what was right here. Is not that good then?
  9. You are making a mistake. Do not put a resistor on the output of the vRx to reduce the measured resistance to 75 ohms. A video output circuit is designed to drive a 75 ohm terminated monitor. Your added resistor will disturb this circuitry by "double terminating" it. I think you are confusing this issue with Lawmate's poor design found on some of their vTxs' video inputs. But this issue has nothing to do with their vRxs'.
  10. I placed a resistance in parallel to the output to have 75 ohm. Is it with this protentiometer that we set the video level?
  11. Great! I'll get a 2s lipo first like you suggested and if that doesn't resolve, I guess the filter will be in the works. Thanks again for for this great tutorial!
  12. You would re-calibrate the video level with the resistor installed. Here is an example on using a O-Scope to set the video signal level:
  13. So we put the resistance and then we set the level, right?
  14. Ok I now understand better. Thanks
  15. Sorry, but the attached PC Board is needed. It does two major things: (1) The board's microcontroller sends a serial data message (~32-bits) to the Comtech module that configures it to the desired channel frequency. (2) The Comtech's RF signal output is a raw baseband signal. This signal needs to be further processed before it can drive the composite video display. The attached board does the required magic.
  16. Unfortunately that will adversely reduce the amplitude of the video signal. If the vTx has a video level POT, and you have the proper test equipment, then you can re-calibrate the video level to the industry standard 1Vpp amplitude. Traditionally you would need a o-scope to check and calibrate the video level. But now there is an alternative -- This cool DiY Project was specifically created to check FPV video levels:
  17. Hello, I have a Comtech FM2400RTIM8 and I would like to know if it is possible to use alone so without the electronic part shipped with? Is it possible to block it on a single channel (example 2510) without using pins number 14 and 15? I do not need several frequencies but just one. Thanks (Bonjour, j'ai un Comtech FM2400RTIM8 et je voudrais savoir si il est possible de l'utiliser seul donc sans la partie electronique livré avec? Est il possible de le bloqué sur un seul canal (exemple 2510) sans utiliser les broches numero 14 et 15? Je n'est pas besoin de plusieurs fréquences mais juste une seul. Merci)
  18. I placed a resistance in parallel to input.
  19. The diagonal line noise's intensity will vary, depending on the luck of the user. Plus, the higher the battery voltage, the worse it gets. So your 4S LiPO is likely the biggest contributor to your problem. Over at rcgroups there is a lot of debate about how to solve the faint diagonal lines. Since the noise is often reduced with lowering battery voltage, most of the fixes involved doing that. Here is one solution someone proposed: I recommend that you try a 2S LiPO before making any mods. If you still see noise then also add a LC filter (330uH + 470uF) to the power input of the RX5808 Pro. Beyond that I don't have any other suggestions.
  20. Flirts off, thanks for these files and the build tutorial. Super awesome mod! Second, I do have those vertical lines you mentioned above. Can you elaborate some on the filter to resolve you mentioned? I am using a 4s battery and not a 3s or 2s, this is due to a lack of available 3s and 2s batteries. I can buy some if required, but it seems to work fine on a 4s battery. Lastly, I bought all my parts from your links (mouser) and the chip does have a pin1 indicator. One side has a beveled edge and when that side is down, pin 1 is on the far left bottom. I had to google this as it was rather confusing and the data sheet didn't provide this info. Nevertheless it works this way for me so I'm hoping to help a fellow head play modder if they also incounter this issue. Thanks again!!!
  21. Here is the 3D printer STL file for the MS5611 (GY-63) Module: GY63_case1.stl
  22. Hello! I just wired up the same Baro and bench tests show it's working but I wondered if anyone has a good STL file they could share so I can print a holder on the side like Mr RC-Cam did for his! Thank you Mr RC-Cam for sharing this excellent information. Frank
  23. Yes, I can see the Pin-1 index dimple at the lower left corner.
  24. Here's the chip. Is there a dot at the bottom left? The chip is sooo small.
  25. If it came from Mouser the THS7314 should be authentic. But with the missing pin-1 index something odd is going on. Are you sure this tiny mark is really missing?
  26. Aw man! I thought Mouser was good. Well, I did buy two chips and four converter boards. Thanks!
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