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Attention: RC-CAM.com will be closing down August 2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This is being announced now (March 2021) so that everyone has time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.

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  2. New members can upload 350kb sized attachments in each posting. Multiple replies can be used if the total file size exceeds the 350kb per post limit.
  3. Good afternoon, my son found this plane in a attic, I’m guessing early 60s , I google the shipping name on box and this gent was a innovator of R/C planes , I’m attaching pictures if anyone could give history on it would be great , probably looking to sell it. Sorry my pictures are to big to download, plane is Sr Falcon R/c control unit #1) red , citizenship in box with 3 or 4 control modules all transistors etc mint shape r/c control #2) silver, controlaire has amperage or voltage reading in middle at top and then selector switches on sides both are old and in great shap
  4. Hello Fellow Content Creators, This week’s new free-to-use-with-attribution tracks are: On my Action 4 page: NIGHTTIME ESCAPE_V001 – (Looping) https://soundimage.org/action-4/ On my Fantasy 11 page: THE CITY OF ICE – (Looping) https://soundimage.org/fantasy-11/ And on my Nature/Science 3 page: ALONE IN THE GREAT NORTH https://soundimage.org/nature-science-3/ Please don’t forget about my super-affordable Ogg music tracks and packs. They sound great and are a cool way to support my efforts. Stay healthy and keep being creative!
  5. I m looking for the Cheap Drones as i just started the photography please help me find some that might good for me as a newbie
  6. All the details (including related schematics) from my repair experience are posted in this thread. So read through it for information on how I fixed my scope's bad power supply.
  7. I have the same model. Something went bang when I switch on, presumably an electrolytic capacitor in the power supply. I tried obtaining a circuit diagram and service manual, but was unable to obtain one. Any info on your experience would be welcome.
  8. You could indeed adapt the Mustang cluster project for use in a older vehicle that does not have Can-Bus. Of course this would require hardware and software changes. I don't plan to do it. But this effort could be handled by another developer that has a lot of free time.
  9. Mr.Rc-Cam, could your setup be ran inside a vehicle? Because this is next step on my list. At first I was going to use aftermarket gauges and use the mustang cluster just to house them. But now after I seen what you did, it got me thinking that I might could incorporate your project into getting my cluster to work in a non-canbus vehicle.
  10. Would someone please tell me which are the RSSI pads on the FR632 Diversity 5.8GHz receivers. Many thanks.
  11. That's a very "lightweight" LC filter. It looks similar to those sold for FPV drone installations (for video camera and vTx). Don't use it on the 5V to the servos (it isn't designed for the peak servo loads). No promises, but it might help to use it only on the power leg that serves the lower current video devices, such as the monitor and vRx. Interesting find. Especially if you are connecting the wall adapter to the exact same place (and same way) that was connected to the 3S LiPO. I would expect a good performing 3S LiPO to work better than some randomly chosen wall adapter. FWIW, I'
  12. Thanks Thomas for your reply. No I have not tried different ESC/BEC that has a switcher VReg but i will find and try. Yes i have tried different BEC that has a switcher but same issue.Using Hitec ESC's LDO BEC,it gets much better but i can still see some interference but that i can tolerate. No I have not but i will post my wiring diagram here. Sorry I don't have expertise to pinpoint ground loop issue. I am attaching a picture of my LC filter that i tried. I tried low esr 470uf,680uf,1000uf and even 2700uf on the 12v power rail and 5v servo
  13. Since the Hitec ESC's 5V LDO works well then that seems to confirm your suspicion that the issue is related to the UBEC's 5V switcher. Have you tried a different ESC/BEC that has a switcher VReg? Have you tried a standalone BEC switcher VReg rather than an ESC/BEC combo? Have you investigated the wiring layout for ground loops? Assuming the UBEC can be salvaged, I have some questions about your LC filter. 1. What L and C values did you use? Please post a photo of the LC you built so I can see the physical size of the components. 2. Where did you install the filter? On the 3S
  14. Hi all,Need suggestion from the experts here.My Servocity pan and tilt servos(Hitec HS 785 HB) are putting interference back into the 12v power line and it creates white patterns on my monitor. Interference is visible only when the servos are moving or jittering or if i try to move my tracker forcefully by handI am feeding 12v from a 3S battery to my monitor,pitlab groundstation and to switching mode Ubec which converts 12v to 5 volts for servos.All servo leads are twisted and i have tried using ferrite rings,LC filters, low ESR caps and nothing is working. If i use seperate 12v battery to fee
  15. Seems possible to me. For example, add a second pot and use a switch to choose between two offset pots (High/Low range). If you don't mind writing some code, use a relay or digital pot. This would allow it to be a menu choice or auto-selected depending on weld current. That might work; Depends on the behavior of your welder's over-temp circuitry. My welder's PWM controller chip (SG3525A) has a hardware shutdown pin. So if your welder uses this chip (or something similar) then you could control weld current (on/off) via this pin. The SG3525A data sheet describes operati
  16. Hi, With regards to the pot adjustment of the offset, do you think it would be possible to make that a switchable range on the front panel? also another thought would be the ability to start and stop the arc from a trigger, could this be put in parallel with the over-temp control input to start/stop the arc for potential TIG use? Mine is very similar inside to your unit but has an LED display for amps, wildly off as it goes from 25 to 250 amps but I will attempt to calibrate it somewhat... A very interesting project! Schematics would certainly be helpful though
  17. A diaphragm within the wing might work. On the top side having a tube opening on the top of the wing, creating a vacuum on the top side of the diaphragm, and another tube opening on the lower side of the wing. The diaphragm would operate a microswitch when there was insufficient suction from the top surface of the wing.
  18. The video shows the receiver pinout at the 3:00 minute mark. What it shows matches the photo you posted. The bottom row is somewhat of a mystery (the manual calls it a 5V power output).
  19. I can not seem to find a pinout for the rodeo 150 external Rx connector. The best information I could find so far has me to believe that the top 3 pins (from left to right) are GND, V+ and signal (maybe PPM and SBUS). I don't know what the bottom 3 pins are. Does anyone have a pinout ?
  20. The basics on installing a different receiver are shown in this guy's video:
  21. I am wondering how to replace the stock receiver with a frsky receiver?
  22. Hi everyone, Here are this week’s new free music tracks: On my Action 4 page: ENDLESS SCI-FI RUNNER – (Looping) https://soundimage.org/action-4/ On my Chiptunes 3 page: CUTE 8-BIT MONSTERS – (Looping) A PIXEL ROMANCE – (Looping) https://soundimage.org/chiptunes-3/ On my Funny 7 page: ANOTHER COOKIE HEIST https://soundimage.org/funny-7/ And on my Puzzle Music 6 page: PUZZLE CONSTRUCTION – (Looping) https://soundimage.org/puzzle-music-6/ I sincerely hope they are helpful in your projects!
  23. The A1 voltage should be 2.0V to 2.1V with no RF signal. If you measure 0V then there is definitely something wrong with the AD8318 sensor (or the wiring to it). This voltage represents the measured RF power and should range from approx 0.6V (~0dBm) to 2.0V (~ -65dBm). My first thoughts: The 0V reading could mean that A1 is shorted to ground. Or a power supply issue related to the AD8318 board.
  24. After boot the blank line is not present at the display of course but for unknown reason added by this app RF POWER METER 1MHz - 8GHz VERSION 2.3 SENSOR AD8318 (thats the type i use that is the chip is marked: 8318 HARDWARE PROBLEM OVERLOAD WARNING DISCONNECT NOW! and thats it I have exactly connected the AD8318 as in the document A0 3k3 gnd measuring 2.57V and changing with key pressed to other levels for kepad A1 470R gnd to ad8318 output 100p is placed level 0V with AD8318 opern or terminated
  25. The Vortex's R/C receiver port expects PPM (CPPM). I believe that some Radiolink Rx's have a "PPM" output, so try to use it if yours is equipped with this. But if your R/C Rx only has S.Bus then the special protocol convertor cable can be used to convert S.Bus to the PPM signal required by the Vortex. FWIW, I don't own a Vortex 285 or Radiolink. So check with the user manuals if you need more thorough advice.
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