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  5. The A1 voltage is from the output of the RF power board (AD8318 chip). It should be close to 2.0V when nothing is connected to its RF input. Your 1.69V A1 voltage might be because it has a different chip, such as a AD8317 or some other variant. So I suggest you confirm that the RF power board has a AD8318 chip on it (read the part number printed on the chip). Troubleshooting tips: Recheck the RF Power board's wiring to the Arduino. Confirm the Arduino board's A1 resistor is correct value and installed at the proper location. Confirm the RF Power board's 100pF cap is correct value and installed at the proper location. Clean off flux. Measure the 3S battery under load and confirm it is 11-14V. Measure the supply voltage at the RF Power board (at VCC & GND pads) and confirm it is 11-14V.
  6. ok.. FINALLY have some time to get back to this. Voltage at A1 is 1.69v. Running a 3s battery with the multimeter on the negative side of the xt30. does this mean the resistor is not what it claims to be?
  7. Thanks for the feedback. I agree PLA would be a poor choice for this application. It's biodegradable (corn starch) and may become unstable over time. My adapters were printed with ABS plastic. It is OK to use in this application. Please feel free to edit your post to make your comments more clear.
  8. I think that the plastic spacers you are using (most of us think that it isn't conductive!) could conduct under some conditions and what kind of PLA is used. The article here: https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3507/is-pla-filament-conductive talks about it. When you measure with a multimeter, it uses a very small amount of current and voltage - to prevent the meter blowing up your stuff..... - but here you are using much more volts and amps! I was gonna do some tests, but timewize I can't right now, but I would like to see someone run some tests. There are many PLA, even conductive PLAs out there and the carbon inside and even some pigments for color, if they are made from iron rust that is processed into specific colors could create conductivity! Sorry for my English, it is my 7th Language so I don't explain myself sometimes right. Good luck with your scope! Tony
  9. I don't have any experience with it. The 3GHz max rating means it is not a good choice for your 5.8GHz vTx.
  10. Thanks. What do you think about this 30db/5W attenuator? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BECEN-5W-SMA-JK-RF-Coaxial-Attenuator-DC-to-3GHz-1db-2db-3db-5db-6db-10db/32890661846.html?spm=2114.search0604.3.16.2307134bnGM7Rn&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10065_10068_319_317_10696_10084_453_10083_454_10618_10304_10307_10820_10821_537_10302_536_10843_10059_10884_10887_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_52,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=a031472c-049e-4572-9315-26831f2b24da-2&algo_pvid=a031472c-049e-4572-9315-26831f2b24da
  11. The calibration instructions shown for 900MHz are also used to calibrate the other RF bands.
  12. Hello! How to Slope calibration and Intercept calibration with a 5.8GHz VTX? I don't have a 900Mhz VTX. Thanks
  13. i still haven't got round to getting this sorted with all the traveling for work i'm doing, but didn't want to appear one of those users that just disappear after receiving help. Should be able to get to this when i'm back next weekend
  14. The Overload warning is not normal with a 30dB attenuator on a 5.8GHz / 25mW vTx. I would suspect battery voltage issues; Try a 3S or regulated 12V adapter (>1A rating). Some more troubleshooting suggestions: Confirm correct value (remove and measure) of the 470 ohm resistor on Arduino Pin A1. Confirm it is installed on the correct pins. Check the voltage on Arduino pin A1. It should be approx 2.1V without a RF signal (remove vTx). Recheck the installation of the 100pF cap that you added to the AD8318. Reconfirm that the meter is set for the correct RF band and attenuation dB. Maybe your vTx is putting out more RF power than expected. If it has programmable RF power then change to lowest setting. Next, try a different vTx.
  15. no problem! i've now got a cheap attenuator off ebay, received it today, (i know its not ideal, but its all i can find in the UK for less than crazy money) its a 30db one ranging up to 6ghz. Ive not calibrated it as i have no means of another tester yet, but when connecting to a 25mw vtx, it shows overload within seconds, unless i touch the ground of the sma leads. I'm itching to get another tester to calibrate, but is this normal behaviour at just 25mw? i've set the db on the tester to your 30bd profile, as the custom one is stuck at 60db like another poster on here that has this issue. i will attempt to go through the resistors for that. the attenuator im using https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SMA-JK-Male-to-Female-RF-Coaxial-Attenuator-2W-DC-6GHz-1-3-6-10-20-30dB-UK-Stock/133037288159?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=432334469683&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 edit - im using a 2s lipo
  16. Thanks for reporting this. I added a note about the LCD bias adjustment in the flashing/startup instructions.
  17. many thanks for this guide. Ive just put this together, but the screen is just solid blue - it does not display any text. flashing was completed successfully and threw up no errors, is there anything i have missed? found it - i had to turn the potentiometer about 8 times clockwise
  18. Marking appears to be S10BFC. Repair information and replacement part data is found here: http://forum.rcdesign.ru/blogs/139882/blog21678.html The link above may have info on it.
  19. Hello! What is the 5 pin SMD in the top right corner? I think I have this blown, is this a 1.8V regulator? I need to know maybe the marking on that chip? Also, there is another 5 legs regulator on the other side of the board, what is the marking/model/type of that one? Thanks in advance!
  20. Thanks! I'll give it a shot. Since I only have the issue when running the video signal through these FCs I am curious to know if they are changing the levels even if there isn't much I can do about it.
  21. The popular diversity vRx modules have a design issue that results in incorrect video levels (low amplitude). So maybe the new OSD is also contributing to this issue and the combination results in a video level that is incompatible with the goggles. Just a best-guess; Without an o-scope measurement it is difficult to know what the real issue is. This DiY tool will help you check for incorrect video levels: https://www.rc-cam.com/forum/index.php?/topic/4126-diy-fpv-video-calibration-tool-low-cost/
  22. I have been battling a difficult video issue with my Attitude V2 goggles for a few months now and came across this site while researching the details of the fatshark rx modules. Hopefully someone can give me some direction in further troubleshooting. I have 2 sets of fatshark attitude v2 goggles. On both sets I have removed the FS rx module and added a female pin header to accept newer diversity modules. I have a eachine pro58 and a realacc5808 module. I have been using these goggles/modules for over a year with no trouble with several quads with and without OSD. I recently built a new fpv quad with an FC with built in OSD and noticed I'm getting distortions in the video that fluctuate with the lighting conditions in the image. I initially tried various parts swaps, multiple FCs, cams, vtx, and different receivers; and it always came down to any FC/OSD I purchased this year have the issue (4 of them) and anything older works fine. I have a boscam fpv watch and the image looks perfect on it all the time. Also a DVR connected to the goggles records the image fine. But when I use these newer FC/OSD I get this distortion in the screens of the goggles. I purchased an original Fatshark rx module and board its soldered to and put that in my goggles. The issue went away. So I believe there is some compatibility issues with my diversity rx modules and newer OSDs on race quad FCs. I thought it might be a vsync issue but am not sure or know how to check. Video of the issue below: I found this post, and some of the info looks like it may apply to my issue. Perhaps a coupling cap on the rx signal would help me?
  23. Thanks for stopping by. Hopefully there is a happy ending to your 2246 repair efforts.
  24. Wanted to complement Mr.RC-Cam for taking us along his journey to resurrect such a wonderful piece of gear. I got a defective 2246 from a car repair/reprogramming place which failed 5us trigger A self diagnostics. Was fairly certain the 28 pin triggering logic IC was bad (inputs into the device but no output signals). I got replacement part from Q-Service in Greece ($20 US + $9 shipping). After taking out the old part and installing the IC in a socket the unit was completely dead making only soft clicking sounds. The power supply was non-functional and I haven't tried much troubleshooting yet. I did use an ESR Tester on the caps and meter to measure their values. So far the caps are ok. Your repair tale will hopefully speed up mine. Thank you for being so kind to share your experiences.
  25. That sounds unusual. I would expect that even with a dead battery your scope would still be able to finish the self cal test. But I don't know for sure. Your scope is a different animal because you have the 2245 and mine is a 2245A. Regardless, my best advice is to start by confirming the power supply voltages are correct.
  26. Amazing work thank you for sharing! I just picked up a 2245 B012747 and trying to run the Self Cal Measurement and it gets stuck running while TURN ALL VAR KNOBS FULLY CW. I've turned the 3 of them and it keeps running. Finding the manual for this B version is coming up empty so far also. No repairs have been done to mine yet but I suspect the battery might have something to do with the continuously running calibration test? Thank you again for sharing the repair on yours, hopefully I can get this working correctly and put into use.
  27. Ah, that makes sense. So it's a recording of a synthesized voice, then. I figured the motor revs were likely sampled. Still, that's pretty impressive for an 8-bit AVR. Ah and now I see there was a separate MP3 decoder module. Maybe I should read more closely 🤔
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