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  2. Because of your circuit's simplicity I suspect its frame rate is out-of-spec. Landtastic expects the standard 20mS frame rate (50Hz) but will tolerate slower frame rates near 40mS (25Hz) found on very old R/C systems. BTW, there are many cheap (<$5 USD) servo testers sold by eBay and China shops. Might be easier to use one of them.
  3. Hi author I have built the servo controller as shown below. When I tried to check my servo slower using this circuit, nothing happen when I rotate the pot in either direction. But when I check the the same servo slower using mt commercially available servo tester it works just fine. Is there any fix to this or do you have any recommendation of other servo tester that I can build that would work with your servo slower circuit. Thanks for your time, Ali
  4. Thanks for the feedback! When you calibrate the RX5808 it is recommended to remove both vRx antennas (Do NOT remove vTx antenna). This prevents over-saturated RSSI levels because the vTx is nearby. My method is similar, but less convenient. I do it outdoors (in a wide open area) and leave all the antennas on. The vTx is moved about 50 feet away, then the RSSI is calibrated. Faint horizontal/diagonal lines in the image is "normal" for modded HeadPlay Goggles (affects some installations, not all). It's due to its noisy DC-DC power supply. If this is the issue you have then filtering the RX5808 Pro's 12VDC power from the HeadPlays might help. Here is a video that shows the noise so you can confirm you have the same issue: However, if the noise you are seeing does not match the YouTube example then the problem is caused by something else. The most common mistake is using an adjacent RF frequency on the RX5808 Pro rather than using the exact frequency that matches the vTx. This results in a "working" video image that has excess noise.
  5. Great project, I loved building this! Everything fits together very well and the instructions are good. Just a few remarks and questions: - Your pictures show all ground wires from the DVR to the buffer board, I did only connect a single lead to save some space - Your schematic does not show +5V/GND connections of the DVR - The top screw was a little short I think, could use 16mm - My RX5808 pinout showed the OLED Port in the middle and +5V/GND on the side, but I wired it up as you suggested as both pins (VCC and +5V) deliver 5V - How did you calibrate the diversity board? I read the instructions saying the board will measure max and min RSSI and ideally I should remove the antenna, how is this supposed to measure max RSSI without antenna? - I have a lot of noise but improved range (compared to the builtin rx), any clue where the noise could come from? Again, great project and many thanks for taking the time to document it for us.
  6. Hello everyone, first of all I present my name is CSL-Navas on the internet, I bring you here a work that I have been doing for a long time to see many clones inspire I decided to make mine completely new with the ideas of others and some speizas ideas of mine many of them others new or improved, thanks to my idea Main was based thanks "DALE" I hope you like it, and made 2 fully functional versions the two 1ยบ version is with tubes of 16mm and 20mm, for something more simple with motors 920kv to 750kv with batteries of 3 to 4s and variadores 20 to 30a with the elevation without of servo 180 degrees that does not need end of races nor diodes only servo 180 degrees 2nd version is more worked but same pieces to print, tubes of 20mm and 25mm Motors 350kv x4 and variadores 4in1, servo simple metal gear of 13kilos torque with elevator threaded rod like 3d printers, with 2 end of races and 2 diodes 1 plate arduino (this I could not prove arduino since I do not understand arduino) but A customer has done it and his dron with our chassis works Here all the photos and I hope that the moderator of this forum can approve a space for this work, and that you can make improvements in if you want, I am going to contribute as much as possible on my part designs Aqui el video de mi Inspire volando Aqui con bleder y aqui la subida y bajada de brazos E uploaded all the files ordered, for download with a direct link outside of internet advertisements or external pages with viruses, the files are uploaded to my main server you can download it here Inspire v1 descargar Remember if you need help you can write your question here
  7. Final Words: Properly calibrated video levels will help improve a FPV system's performance. If you build the Video Cal Tool then please come back and share your experience using it.
  8. If the video level needs calibration then you'll have to carefully review the vTx (or vRx) and locate the component that does it. For example, the 900MHz vTx shown above has a video level calibration POT (adjustable resistor) that is accessible from a small hole. See close-up photo below. Hopefully your 900MHz, 1.3GHz, or 2.4GHz vTx has an obvious Video Cal POT too. If you don't see an access hole then you'll have to dig in and open up its metal case. If you find that your vTx does not have a Video POT then check the vRx for one. BTW, do not use a conductive screwdriver to adjust the POT through the hole in the metal case. Use a plastic (non-conductive) screwdriver instead. Some tips: It is important to correctly identify the video level POT -- Do not touch any other adjustments in the vTx or vRx! For example, there may be a variable cap for antenna matching. Sometimes there's a variable cap and/or inductor for calibrating the audio subcarrier. Do not touch these! The video level can be affected by the antennas that are installed. So always re-calibrate the video level if you change antennas. The video level can be affected by the RF channel that is chosen. So always re-calibrate the video level if you change the FPV system's frequency setting. 5.8GHz FPV systems rarely have a video level adjustment. But unfortunately some have incorrect video levels that cause poor performance. No need to suffer needlessly, you can use this tool to reject those with bad video levels. Either return the offenders to the supplier or use them as a fancy paperweight.
  9. After confirming that everything is working OK you can put your new tool to use. Here's an example that shows a 900MHz video transmitter connected to the vTx generator: Here's an example of the video receiver and LCD monitor connected to the vRx generator: After everything is connected together you can power up the FPV gear and check the video level.
  10. There's some information scattered on the web on tuning. Here's some basic info that I found with a quick google search: Do not expect miracles. Cleanflight's Alt-hold has lower performance than DJI NAZA. That is because Cleanflight was developed for racing; Its GPS and Alt-hold functions are not fully developed. So if you are expecting it to work as good as a DJI Phantom then you will be sorely disappointed. It is important that you prevent sunlight *and* prop wash from affecting the Baro Sensor. It is very sensitive to both of those things. Mine is inside a opaque housing (blocks light) and is covered with soft breathable foam (reduces effect of prop wash). Also, all your props must be in good condition (clean, no damage, straight). They may require balancing; Any prop vibrations will affect the Alt-Hold's performance.
  11. In case of problem with CleanFlight here is recipe how to install older version (which we know it was working) Please, can you describe PID parameters, because I don't have any idea what I am changing? Even some intuition could be useful. Here is screen from my PID (comparing with yours notice that there is different scale on Proportional and Integral)
  12. You can tweak the ALT-Hold PIDs if you need better performance. I don't move the throttle after enabling Alt-Hold. However, it can be moved to increase/decrease height; But when Alt-Hold is disabled be prepared for a dramatic change in throttle speed (due to the throttle stick's altered position). I don't know. It works in the version of CleanFlight I installed a few months ago.
  13. Hi, I've uploaded MWOSD firmware and one of its feature is that you can change most of the settings via gui interface using your transmitter and goggles. Best regards gc
  14. Hi, I tried to use yours numbers - I do not know exactly if I did, because in my CleanFlight cfg one column had totally different scale - I think it was column with digits after decimal point (I wanted to upload printscrean img but I have problem with connecting to CF). Your values give model which act like it has altitude hold function. Sometimes there are some small niticable jumps. How generally throttle stick supposed to act. Should I configure it before to be "neutral in the middle"? Problem with CF. When I connected my Rodeo 150 to computer I get a warning about non cleanflight firmware when starting CleanFlight. It is not recognizing my drone. I've attached image - previously I had exactly the same numbers of firmware version and other values like on yours printscreens. I've seen that there was an update of CleanFlight. It doesn't support Rodeo 150 anymore? Thanks for the mic recipe. Best regards gc
  15. All four Nav lights are wired in series and operated from one LED driver board. The Strobe/Landing light is two series connected LEDs that are operated from another LED driver. Both boards are powered from the model's 4S LiPO battery. You can use either connection method. But PPM-Sum is the modern way to do it. I suggest a 8+ channel R/C system. For example, you need 4 channels for throttle/pitch/roll/yaw, 1 channel for flight modes, 1 channel for retracts, and usually a couple more channels for OSD or Gimbal operation. Although the hardware will support R/C control of the lights, and was considered, I didn't need it so it is not included in the existing firmware. The good news is that the interrupt driven PPM decoding for a second control channel is already being done for you. So remote on/off of the LEDs is possible, but you'll need to add this functionality if you need it. Correct. Correct. The Servo Stop value is ignored when using the Motor Driver board. The 3-pin connectors on R/C receivers have Ground, 5V, Signal. That is why these signals are shown on the schematic at the J2 & J4 servo plug connections. 5V power for the R/C Receiver and Arduino is provided by the BEC feature from one of the ESCs (the other 3 ESCs' BEC outputs are unused). ESC (x4), Retract Motor Driver, and LED Drivers (x2) are connected to the PDB, which is powered by the 4S flight battery. All grounds are "STAR" connected to the PDB, which serves as a power hub. Power to the 5.8GHz FPV gear is 12V regulated and includes a LC filter to ensure clean video. The ESC's I selected had the dimensions and electrical specs that I needed. But they did not have BLHeli firmware in them, so I had to flash it myself. Some ESC's have BLHeli loaded in them by the factory; BLHeli is very popular for Helicopters & "Drones" due to its optimized performance (versus a common airplane ESC).
  16. Thomas, I had time to dig into this a little more today. The more I look at the code the more impressed I am and now understand how you made this more universal via the config section. I took a good look at the wiring schematics and had some dumb questions that I hope you can help with: -The 4 leds next to the motors operate in the same way from one LED driver board? -PPM sum is the mode in which the receiver communicates to the arduino board? Otherwise you used 2 channels from the receiver to operate the arduino? This would indicate a 6 channel receiver is a minimum requirement? -Nav lights are turned on and off by the receiver signal however what they do after that is based in the code? -Limit 1 and 2 are connected to the limit switches? -MTL and R are connected to the motor driver board and the code as is is set up for this and not a servo with a POT attached? -The servo stop value is still required to stop creep even when the a motor driver board is used? -Why do the inputs require 5V? -Did you run 2 rails or distributions for power? It seems like the ECUs, LED driver boards and motor driver board would need to be hooked up to a high amp distribution block and the rest could be slimmed down with a much smaller gauge wire -Same question for the grounds, did everything just go back to the battery negative? I saw you used some noise reduction on the motor did you need to do anything similar elsewhere? Sorry for the dumb questions this learning curve is steep. While I can track the schematic the practical application of it is something I do not have much experience in. And a totally different question, why flash the ECUs? What does this change or help? Is this still a concern or has the code been improved since you wrote this? Thank you, Si
  17. Worked well for me. But if you run into issues then keep in mind that you can change the code to meet your needs. BTW, after using the auto retract feature for awhile I found I preferred manual control (without auto retract). But everyone is different, so the feature is there for those that want it. The config.h file allows you to choose how the retracts are handled by the assigned radio switch. It does both directions. If this is not desirable then feel free to tweak the code. The PPM Servo Out port is for model airplanes that have official Retract Servos (a special kind of R/C servo). It could also be used with a Continuous rotation servo (a standard servo with the feedback pot removed). These two servo choices were not used in my Inspire installation. As documented, I customized a R/C servo by hacking it with a H-Bridge Amp to drive the motor. A layman's build guide would be great. Thanks for the kind feedback.
  18. lol challenging to build that seems like an understatement given where this began. The thread on this was impressive. Does not look nearly as bad now you have all figured out the kinks. You are right though its expensive. Given the cost of 3D printers now I am surprised you do not get more traffic on this topic. I just bought all the parts to mock up the ardunio setup, I think it will be a little more than I can handle but given you have created the template I am hopeful I can get it somewhat working. I also ordered a distance sensor with more range to it, when checking out the spec sheets I was surprised that the voltage vs distance is not linear and the drop off when it reaches its lower limit. The one you used has a the same profile. Need to check your code to see how you handled that, its not what I expected or the sensor maybe capped before this point. Also seems like it will not tolerate much side to side motion. I did see you are averaging the sensor input. How well did this work in reality? And did you just use the auto to put the gear down and not up? And why did you include a servo spare, front and back wheels? As far as background I have never programmed anything, 3D printed anything, or flown anything lol. Biochemist by trade so I have blown stuff up! I have worked with some electronics, set up a home brew stand with a few PIDs, gas valves, temp probes, and pumps. I can follow your code each piece is intuitive enough, would not be able to write it from scratch though! Bottom line is this is one of the most impressive projects I have seen in a long time. While I know it is advanced it also covers most aspects of RC builds that I would like to learn/master. If you do not feel like answering questions or discussing the build anymore I will understand, no issues there. If you still see value in a layman's guide I can put something together if I get it working. Bottom line is you did an amazing job with this.
  19. This project was finished back in 2015: No new activity since then. It is challenging and rewarding to build. However, it is a fragile model and not suitable as a everyday flyer. Cost is high, requires over a hundred hours of printer time, and many more hours of assembly. It is suitable for someone that has already mastered configuring/flying traditional R/C Quads. It is also helpful to have a prior 3D printer experience. If my Arduino based retract controller is used then C coding and electronic hardware experience would be needed too. Otherwise, skip the Arduino and use the simple diode based limit switch solution instead. The Arduino controller firmware is very sophisticated and should be suitable for planes too. Extra effort was made so that it would be a universal R/C retract & LED controller.
  20. Never mind, did not realize you posted the code, looking at it now. If I can get this working I will document the process. Its more than I expected but you have documented it quite well. I will need to see this in action to fully understand it. Thanks Simon
  21. RC-Cam, I am gong blind reading all the info on this project! Thank you for condensing your build on this page its VERY helpful. After reading all the posts I decided to buy a Prusa i3 and get going on this. I am looking to duplicate your hardware setup as its almost exactly what I was looking to do. I was very interested in Arduino for a few different projects and I think this maybe enough of a push to get into it. Are you still active in this project? The electrical connections seem somewhat straight forward, I do not have any interest in using the hall sensors, and my hold up would be the arduino programming. It seems like that may have killed the last 2 that said they would help with this project! Could you provide this to me so I can have a look at it? If it makes sense I will document the steps for people like myself...good enough to be dangerous. And as far as the steps I am talking about newbe issues with selecting the print plans, printing, buying the parts, what receiver and transmitters to use, getting it all working on a workbench, getting it into the quad, and lastly the Arduino add on. Nothing has been stated about the required receiver channels and hooking these to the Arduino. The LEDs seem fairly simple but triggering this from sensors and coupling the retraction I do not know how to do yet. I would also want to put in some simple variables so the height of up and down have a span between them and be adjustable etc. From what I have seen of the programing so far this would be easy to define at the start of the code. The build will start in 7 weeks, I expect to get all of this done will take me 3 months or so. This is not considering any parts I may need from China as the build progresses. It would be interesting to make this universal for RC Planes etc. Thank you, Simon
  22. It is important that your two MinimOSD based target generators have identical video characteristics. Sloppy component tolerances and manufacturing mistakes will ruin the Video Cal Tool's effectiveness. Fortunately it's easy to test the target generators to confirm they are OK. Do not use the Video Cal Tool until you have successfully passed this test! Perform this special evaluation test while indoors; Do not test outdoors because the strong ambient light can wash out the display too much. Use a high quality monitor with large screen (mine is a 23" LCD TV/Monitor that lives on my workbench). The MinimOSDs' evaluation test is quick & easy. Follow these three steps: STEP 1. Connect the vTx generator's VID-OUT to the VID-IN of the vRx generator. Connect the VID-OUT of the vRx generator directly to the monitor. Like this: STEP 2. Turn on the target generators. Within 5 secs you should see the image below: STEP 3: While reviewing the R & T target symbols, vary the monitor's contrast and brightness controls. The test is a PASS if the targets remain a perfect match at all settings. Repair or replace the MinimOSD boards if the R & T targets do not have matching video levels (FAIL).
  23. The existing Arduino firmware on both MinimOSD's needs to be reflashed with a new set of sketch files. The internet is full of How-To's that explain the flashing process, so I won't repeat the details here. If you are new to Arduino then be prepared to watch some YouTube videos and/or visit some web sites. Note: This Arduino project will compile without any errors on Arduino IDE Version 1.8.1. To avoid compile failure frustrations I suggest you use this version too. In the Arduino Tools menu choose these two settings before flashing the MinimOSD boards: Board: Arduino Pro or Pro Mini Processor: ATmega328 (5V, 16MHz) 1. Assuming you already have the Arduino IDE installed on your PC, begin by downloading the project's zipped firmware file set. Version 1.0 (dated Mar-25-2017): 2. Unzip the files in a Arduino working directory named Vid_Cal. 3. Next, open the Config.h file for editing and go to the User Configurable Parameters section. 4. You'll need to configure the video mode (NTSC / PAL). Edit the text to look like this: To Select NTSC Video format: #define VIDEO_MODE VID_NTSC // Video mode is NTSC //#define VIDEO_MODE VID_PAL // Video mode is PAL To Select PAL Video format: //#define VIDEO_MODE VID_NTSC // Video mode is NTSC #define VIDEO_MODE VID_PAL // Video mode is PAL 5. Because you will be flashing two different MinimOSD boards (vRx / vTx), you must specify which target type to load on each board. Configure as follows: To Select the vRx targets: //#define TARGET TARGET_VTX #define TARGET TARGET_VRX To Select the vTx targets: #define TARGET TARGET_VTX //#define TARGET TARGET_VRX In summary, select the video type (VID_NTSC or VID_PAL) and enable TARGET_VRX before flashing your vRx MinimOSD board. Then re-edit the config.h and enable TARGET_VTX before flashing your vTx MinimOSD board. 6. Set your FTDI board's 3.3V / 5V jumper to the 5V position. This voltage will be used to power the MinimOSD boards during Flashing. 7. With battery power off, proceed to flash each board using the Arduino IDE's Upload button. Reminder: Be sure to configure the vTx/vRx target choice (see step 5) before each flashing.
  24. FWIW, video level issues, like the bad FR632 vRx in this discussion, affect other FPV systems too. Not everyone recognizes that their video image's problems are due to incorrect video levels; Instead they blame other things. The only way to know if the video level is correct is to measure it. That's easier said than done! The problem is caused mainly by the lack of respect for the composite video standards. These industry documented specifications are often ignored to save manufacturing cost, other times it's due to the ignorance of the video circuit designer. Our cheap imported FPV products have been big offenders of this. To help combat the problem I've created a DiY built tool to check the video levels. It can also be used to calibrate the video level. The project is simple to build and replaces expensive/complex test equipment. Any FPV hobbyist that cares about their video signal level can now easily check it. Details are published here:
  25. Assembling the vTx and vRx video generators requires basic soldering skills. And in case I have not been clear, there are two (2) MinimOSD's used in this project. First you need to connect some ground and power pads that are on the two MinimOSD boards. Just add a blob of solder across the pads shown below (Grounding pads on bottom side, SJ2 pads on component side). Some suppliers have already done this for you, but if the pads are not bridged then you must do it. The new firmware (to be flashed later) includes an optional battery voltage monitor feature. This requires adding a jumper wire, as shown below. If your MinimOSDs are the old/original version (not "KV Team") then the voltage monitor feature will require adding some 1% 1/8W resistors, as shown below. Each boards' Power and Video connections are available on the stacked 3-Pin headers. The pins are labeled on the bottom of the MinimOSD board. The vTx OSD only uses VOut and +12V power pins. The vRx OSD needs VOut, VIn, and +12V. I used 3-pin servo plugs to connect the MinimOSD boards, but direct soldering can be used instead. The video connectors you use are up to you. I installed RCA phono panel jacks and made some simple adapter cables that connect them to the FPV system. How you do this is your choice. As a reminder, the vTx's MinimOSD does NOT use the VID-IN signal, so be sure to omit it.
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