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  3. There's some information scattered on the web on tuning. Here's some basic info that I found with a quick google search: http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?35784-Naze32-altitude-hold-simulate-Naza-Attitude&p=616964&viewfull=1#post616964 Do not expect miracles. Cleanflight's Alt-hold has lower performance than DJI NAZA. That is because Cleanflight was developed for racing; Its GPS and Alt-hold functions are not fully developed. So if you are expecting it to work as good as a DJI Phantom then you will be sorely disappointed. It is important that you prevent sunlight *and* prop wash from affecting the Baro Sensor. It is very sensitive to both of those things. Mine is inside a opaque housing (blocks light) and is covered with soft breathable foam (reduces effect of prop wash). Also, all your props must be in good condition (clean, no damage, straight). They may require balancing; Any prop vibrations will affect the Alt-Hold's performance.
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  5. In case of problem with CleanFlight here is recipe how to install older version (which we know it was working) Please, can you describe PID parameters, because I don't have any idea what I am changing? Even some intuition could be useful. Here is screen from my PID (comparing with yours notice that there is different scale on Proportional and Integral)
  6. You can tweak the ALT-Hold PIDs if you need better performance. I don't move the throttle after enabling Alt-Hold. However, it can be moved to increase/decrease height; But when Alt-Hold is disabled be prepared for a dramatic change in throttle speed (due to the throttle stick's altered position). I don't know. It works in the version of CleanFlight I installed a few months ago.
  7. Hi, I've uploaded MWOSD firmware and one of its feature is that you can change most of the settings via gui interface using your transmitter and goggles. Best regards gc
  8. Hi, I tried to use yours numbers - I do not know exactly if I did, because in my CleanFlight cfg one column had totally different scale - I think it was column with digits after decimal point (I wanted to upload printscrean img but I have problem with connecting to CF). Your values give model which act like it has altitude hold function. Sometimes there are some small niticable jumps. How generally throttle stick supposed to act. Should I configure it before to be "neutral in the middle"? Problem with CF. When I connected my Rodeo 150 to computer I get a warning about non cleanflight firmware when starting CleanFlight. It is not recognizing my drone. I've attached image - previously I had exactly the same numbers of firmware version and other values like on yours printscreens. I've seen that there was an update of CleanFlight. It doesn't support Rodeo 150 anymore? Thanks for the mic recipe. Best regards gc
  9. All four Nav lights are wired in series and operated from one LED driver board. The Strobe/Landing light is two series connected LEDs that are operated from another LED driver. Both boards are powered from the model's 4S LiPO battery. You can use either connection method. But PPM-Sum is the modern way to do it. I suggest a 8+ channel R/C system. For example, you need 4 channels for throttle/pitch/roll/yaw, 1 channel for flight modes, 1 channel for retracts, and usually a couple more channels for OSD or Gimbal operation. Although the hardware will support R/C control of the lights, and was considered, I didn't need it so it is not included in the existing firmware. The good news is that the interrupt driven PPM decoding for a second control channel is already being done for you. So remote on/off of the LEDs is possible, but you'll need to add this functionality if you need it. Correct. Correct. The Servo Stop value is ignored when using the Motor Driver board. The 3-pin connectors on R/C receivers have Ground, 5V, Signal. That is why these signals are shown on the schematic at the J2 & J4 servo plug connections. 5V power for the R/C Receiver and Arduino is provided by the BEC feature from one of the ESCs (the other 3 ESCs' BEC outputs are unused). ESC (x4), Retract Motor Driver, and LED Drivers (x2) are connected to the PDB, which is powered by the 4S flight battery. All grounds are "STAR" connected to the PDB, which serves as a power hub. Power to the 5.8GHz FPV gear is 12V regulated and includes a LC filter to ensure clean video. The ESC's I selected had the dimensions and electrical specs that I needed. But they did not have BLHeli firmware in them, so I had to flash it myself. Some ESC's have BLHeli loaded in them by the factory; BLHeli is very popular for Helicopters & "Drones" due to its optimized performance (versus a common airplane ESC).
  10. Thomas, I had time to dig into this a little more today. The more I look at the code the more impressed I am and now understand how you made this more universal via the config section. I took a good look at the wiring schematics and had some dumb questions that I hope you can help with: -The 4 leds next to the motors operate in the same way from one LED driver board? -PPM sum is the mode in which the receiver communicates to the arduino board? Otherwise you used 2 channels from the receiver to operate the arduino? This would indicate a 6 channel receiver is a minimum requirement? -Nav lights are turned on and off by the receiver signal however what they do after that is based in the code? -Limit 1 and 2 are connected to the limit switches? -MTL and R are connected to the motor driver board and the code as is is set up for this and not a servo with a POT attached? -The servo stop value is still required to stop creep even when the a motor driver board is used? -Why do the inputs require 5V? -Did you run 2 rails or distributions for power? It seems like the ECUs, LED driver boards and motor driver board would need to be hooked up to a high amp distribution block and the rest could be slimmed down with a much smaller gauge wire -Same question for the grounds, did everything just go back to the battery negative? I saw you used some noise reduction on the motor did you need to do anything similar elsewhere? Sorry for the dumb questions this learning curve is steep. While I can track the schematic the practical application of it is something I do not have much experience in. And a totally different question, why flash the ECUs? What does this change or help? Is this still a concern or has the code been improved since you wrote this? Thank you, Si
  11. Worked well for me. But if you run into issues then keep in mind that you can change the code to meet your needs. BTW, after using the auto retract feature for awhile I found I preferred manual control (without auto retract). But everyone is different, so the feature is there for those that want it. The config.h file allows you to choose how the retracts are handled by the assigned radio switch. It does both directions. If this is not desirable then feel free to tweak the code. The PPM Servo Out port is for model airplanes that have official Retract Servos (a special kind of R/C servo). It could also be used with a Continuous rotation servo (a standard servo with the feedback pot removed). These two servo choices were not used in my Inspire installation. As documented, I customized a R/C servo by hacking it with a H-Bridge Amp to drive the motor. A layman's build guide would be great. Thanks for the kind feedback.
  12. lol challenging to build that seems like an understatement given where this began. The thread on this was impressive. Does not look nearly as bad now you have all figured out the kinks. You are right though its expensive. Given the cost of 3D printers now I am surprised you do not get more traffic on this topic. I just bought all the parts to mock up the ardunio setup, I think it will be a little more than I can handle but given you have created the template I am hopeful I can get it somewhat working. I also ordered a distance sensor with more range to it, when checking out the spec sheets I was surprised that the voltage vs distance is not linear and the drop off when it reaches its lower limit. The one you used has a the same profile. Need to check your code to see how you handled that, its not what I expected or the sensor maybe capped before this point. Also seems like it will not tolerate much side to side motion. I did see you are averaging the sensor input. How well did this work in reality? And did you just use the auto to put the gear down and not up? And why did you include a servo spare, front and back wheels? As far as background I have never programmed anything, 3D printed anything, or flown anything lol. Biochemist by trade so I have blown stuff up! I have worked with some electronics, set up a home brew stand with a few PIDs, gas valves, temp probes, and pumps. I can follow your code each piece is intuitive enough, would not be able to write it from scratch though! Bottom line is this is one of the most impressive projects I have seen in a long time. While I know it is advanced it also covers most aspects of RC builds that I would like to learn/master. If you do not feel like answering questions or discussing the build anymore I will understand, no issues there. If you still see value in a layman's guide I can put something together if I get it working. Bottom line is you did an amazing job with this.
  13. This project was finished back in 2015: No new activity since then. It is challenging and rewarding to build. However, it is a fragile model and not suitable as a everyday flyer. Cost is high, requires over a hundred hours of printer time, and many more hours of assembly. It is suitable for someone that has already mastered configuring/flying traditional R/C Quads. It is also helpful to have a prior 3D printer experience. If my Arduino based retract controller is used then C coding and electronic hardware experience would be needed too. Otherwise, skip the Arduino and use the simple diode based limit switch solution instead. The Arduino controller firmware is very sophisticated and should be suitable for planes too. Extra effort was made so that it would be a universal R/C retract & LED controller.
  14. Never mind, did not realize you posted the code, looking at it now. If I can get this working I will document the process. Its more than I expected but you have documented it quite well. I will need to see this in action to fully understand it. Thanks Simon
  15. RC-Cam, I am gong blind reading all the info on this project! Thank you for condensing your build on this page its VERY helpful. After reading all the posts I decided to buy a Prusa i3 and get going on this. I am looking to duplicate your hardware setup as its almost exactly what I was looking to do. I was very interested in Arduino for a few different projects and I think this maybe enough of a push to get into it. Are you still active in this project? The electrical connections seem somewhat straight forward, I do not have any interest in using the hall sensors, and my hold up would be the arduino programming. It seems like that may have killed the last 2 that said they would help with this project! Could you provide this to me so I can have a look at it? If it makes sense I will document the steps for people like myself...good enough to be dangerous. And as far as the steps I am talking about newbe issues with selecting the print plans, printing, buying the parts, what receiver and transmitters to use, getting it all working on a workbench, getting it into the quad, and lastly the Arduino add on. Nothing has been stated about the required receiver channels and hooking these to the Arduino. The LEDs seem fairly simple but triggering this from sensors and coupling the retraction I do not know how to do yet. I would also want to put in some simple variables so the height of up and down have a span between them and be adjustable etc. From what I have seen of the programing so far this would be easy to define at the start of the code. The build will start in 7 weeks, I expect to get all of this done will take me 3 months or so. This is not considering any parts I may need from China as the build progresses. It would be interesting to make this universal for RC Planes etc. Thank you, Simon
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  17. Next: Come back soon for tips on using your new Vid Cal Tool.
  18. It is important that your two MinimOSD based target generators have identical video characteristics. Sloppy component tolerances and manufacturing mistakes will ruin the Video Cal Tool's effectiveness. Fortunately it's easy to test the target generators to confirm they are OK. Do not use the Video Cal Tool until you have successfully passed this test! Perform this special evaluation test while indoors; Do not test outdoors because the strong ambient light can wash out the display too much. Use a high quality monitor with large screen (mine is a 23" LCD TV/Monitor that lives on my workbench). The MinimOSDs' evaluation test is quick & easy. Follow these three steps: STEP 1. Connect the vTx generator's VID-OUT to the VID-IN of the vRx generator. Connect the VID-OUT of the vRx generator directly to the monitor. Like this: STEP 2. Turn on the target generators. Within 5 secs you should see the image below: STEP 3: While reviewing the R & T target symbols, vary the monitor's contrast and brightness controls. The test is a PASS if the targets remain a perfect match at all settings. Repair or replace the MinimOSD boards if the R & T targets do not have matching video levels (FAIL).
  19. The existing Arduino firmware on both MinimOSD's needs to be reflashed with a new set of sketch files. The internet is full of How-To's that explain the flashing process, so I won't repeat the details here. If you are new to Arduino then be prepared to watch some YouTube videos and/or visit some web sites. Note: This Arduino project will compile without any errors on Arduino IDE Version 1.8.1. To avoid compile failure frustrations I suggest you use this version too. In the Arduino Tools menu choose these two settings before flashing the MinimOSD boards: Board: Arduino Pro or Pro Mini Processor: ATmega328 (5V, 16MHz) 1. Assuming you already have the Arduino IDE installed on your PC, begin by downloading the project's zipped firmware file set. Version 1.0 (dated Mar-25-2017): Vid_Cal.zip 2. Unzip the files in a Arduino working directory named Vid_Cal. 3. Next, open the Config.h file for editing and go to the User Configurable Parameters section. 4. You'll need to configure the video mode (NTSC / PAL). Edit the text to look like this: To Select NTSC Video format: #define VIDEO_MODE VID_NTSC // Video mode is NTSC //#define VIDEO_MODE VID_PAL // Video mode is PAL To Select PAL Video format: //#define VIDEO_MODE VID_NTSC // Video mode is NTSC #define VIDEO_MODE VID_PAL // Video mode is PAL 5. Because you will be flashing two different MinimOSD boards (vRx / vTx), you must specify which target type to load on each board. Configure as follows: To Select the vRx targets: //#define TARGET TARGET_VTX #define TARGET TARGET_VRX To Select the vTx targets: #define TARGET TARGET_VTX //#define TARGET TARGET_VRX In summary, select the video type (VID_NTSC or VID_PAL) and enable TARGET_VRX before flashing your vRx MinimOSD board. Then re-edit the config.h and enable TARGET_VTX before flashing your vTx MinimOSD board. 6. Set your FTDI board's 3.3V / 5V jumper to the 5V position. This voltage will be used to power the MinimOSD boards during Flashing. 7. With battery power off, proceed to flash each board using the Arduino IDE's Upload button. Reminder: Be sure to configure the vTx/vRx target choice (see step 5) before each flashing.
  20. FWIW, video level issues, like the bad FR632 vRx in this discussion, affect other FPV systems too. Not everyone recognizes that their video image's problems are due to incorrect video levels; Instead they blame other things. The only way to know if the video level is correct is to measure it. That's easier said than done! The problem is caused mainly by the lack of respect for the composite video standards. These industry documented specifications are often ignored to save manufacturing cost, other times it's due to the ignorance of the video circuit designer. Our cheap imported FPV products have been big offenders of this. To help combat the problem I've created a DiY built tool to check the video levels. It can also be used to calibrate the video level. The project is simple to build and replaces expensive/complex test equipment. Any FPV hobbyist that cares about their video signal level can now easily check it. Details are published here: https://www.rc-cam.com/forum/index.php?/topic/4126-diy-fpv-video-calibration-tool-low-cost/
  21. Assembling the vTx and vRx video generators requires basic soldering skills. And in case I have not been clear, there are two (2) MinimOSD's used in this project. First you need to connect some ground and power pads that are on the two MinimOSD boards. Just add a blob of solder across the pads shown below (Grounding pads on bottom side, SJ2 pads on component side). Some suppliers have already done this for you, but if the pads are not bridged then you must do it. The new firmware (to be flashed later) includes an optional battery voltage monitor feature. This requires adding a jumper wire, as shown below. If your MinimOSDs are the old/original version (not "KV Team") then the voltage monitor feature will require adding some 1% 1/8W resistors, as shown below. Each boards' Power and Video connections are available on the stacked 3-Pin headers. The pins are labeled on the bottom of the MinimOSD board. The vTx OSD only uses VOut and +12V power pins. The vRx OSD needs VOut, VIn, and +12V. I used 3-pin servo plugs to connect the MinimOSD boards, but direct soldering can be used instead. The video connectors you use are up to you. I installed RCA phono panel jacks and made some simple adapter cables that connect them to the FPV system. How you do this is your choice. As a reminder, the vTx's MinimOSD does NOT use the VID-IN signal, so be sure to omit it.
  22. So it's time to gather the parts to build this cool tool. As mentioned before, you need two video target pattern generators; One for the FPV vTx and another for the vRx. The target patterns are provided by low cost Arduino based FPV OSD boards. Here's the Parts List: 2 pcs, MinimOSD (KV Team version recommended). Approx $8 USD each on eBay and AliExpress. To flash the custom firmware you'll need one (1) of these: FTDI FT232RL USB to TTL Serial Converter (6-Pin version) for Arduino. Approx $3 on eBay and AliExpress. Keep in mind that there are several similar looking Chinese clones of the MinimOSD on the market. I recommend the "full size" board that has the KV Team Mod (built-in voltage attenuation resistors). Here is what the KV Team version looks like: How to tell the difference in board versions: The KV Team version will have the JP6 8-Pin header area (8 empty solder pads across the top). See photo above. It's important that both OSD's have identical video signal characteristics. Therefore, I recommend that you purchase both boards at the same time from the same supplier. This should reduce the chance of any component variations that might cause unmatched video levels. You can use your existing 7-12VDC FPV batteries (3S LiPO is fine) to power the boards. No other components need to be purchased. But if you want a power switch, A/V connectors (I used RCA phono chassis panel jacks), or plastic enclosure, then feel free to add these things to the shopping list. Although you can simply protect your OSD board with some heatshrink or duct tape, the 3D printed plastic case gives it a professional appearance. Here's the STL files for it. Case Base: case_base1.stl Case Top: case_top1.stl Case Hole Plug: case_plug1.stl Printing recommendations: ABS filament, 35% infill, 3 layer shell, 101% size scaling (shrinkage correction). There's room for a mini toggle power switch, Alkaline 9V battery, and RCA panel jacks. The "Case Hole Plug" file is a small piece that covers an unused RCA mounting hole on the vTx pattern generator (Vid-In is not needed on the vTx side). Here's how everything fits inside my vRx target generator: The vTx target generator is built the same, but has only one RCA jack.
  23. Hi, I installed a fr632 rx 40ch from this quanum bundle https://hobbyking.com/en_us/quanum-fpv-bundle-set-with-600tvl-camera-600mw-transmitter-and-40ch-diversity-receiver.html/?___store=en_us In a eyebox goggles http://www.eyeboxfpv.com/eyeboxfpv7 . I got my goggles long time ago before the manufactured had 40 ch diversity rx instaled from factory. I got blue screes quite often an this situation is accentuated when I am flying with other nearby racing quands, the range is hardly 100 m. I have tried different frequencies and several brands and desings antennas and I can not get this problem solved. I do not know if it can be an impedance compatibility problem or whatever. Before leaving the goggles abandoned in a drower I would like to try some modification like the one commented in this thread. I have also found this other implemetation https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=35696581&postcount=1444 installing a lower rated cap in a different place . I do not know if doing one of those implementations will resolve the problem but I think they wiil not do more harm than I already got ., I have already losen two quads. Which one do you recomend to try first if any of those could hep? Any recomendation or help would be appreciated. Thks
  24. The magic behind the Video Cal Tool relies on our eyes' ability to easily see relative differences in brightness during a side-by-side comparison. The basic test setup is as follows: (1) A monochrome video overlay board provides an image reference (comparison) target pattern on the FPV display (goggles or monitor). It is directly connected between the FPV vRx's Vid-Out jack and the display. (2) A second video overlay board provides a mating target pattern. It is directly connected to the video input of the FPV vTx (the FPV camera is removed). The picture-in-picture formatted setup allows the vTx's pattern to be superimposed on the vRx's reference pattern. The mating target sets will have matching brightness when the FPV system's video level is properly calibrated. To account for the display's dynamic range and/or gamma behavior, one target set has 80% luminance and the other has 120%. Here is the vTx test pattern: Here is the VRx reference pattern: Ok, so that's what the vTx source and reference vRx targets look like. But now you're asking, how do you use them to measure the video signal's level (amplitude)? Answer: Your eyes are the "measuring" equipment. When I say using the tool is EZ, I mean it! During the test the T-target pattern fills the empty inside area on the R-target. Properly calibrated video level appears on your display monitor as shown below. But if the two interlocking patterns do not blend together (brightness not the same) then the FPV system's video level is incorrect. Here's two examples: What do you do when the brightness does not match? Fortunately this problem can be fixed on most analog 900MHz / 1.3GHz / 2.4GHz FPV video systems since they usually have an adjustable video level POT (variable resistor) in the vTx or vRx. Unfortunately modern 5.8GHz systems don't provide a calibration POT, so if the test fails you will be out of luck. But at least you will know that your 5.8GHz system has a video level problem. Here's a short video that shows how to use the Video Cal Tool:
  25. FPV Video Calibration Tool: DiY -- Low Cost -- EZ to use. The signal level (amplitude) of a FPV system's vTx / vRx composite video matters a lot. Unfortunately many are incorrectly adjusted out of the box. There's a number of reasons for this -- marginal designs, poor manufacturing QA, compatibility problems due to brand mixing by end users, cheap component drift, and just plain bad luck. Hold on you say! You are convinced that your system's video is fine. But perhaps that's wishful thinking. Here's the cold hard reality -- Many FPV systems have marginal video levels and this invites problems that are often blamed on other things. For example, the random "weak signal" blackouts we all hate are not always directly RF signal related. Poorly calibrated video levels will contribute to those random blackouts too. Plus a host of other image quality problems (e.g., image tearing, poor brightness / contrast, random sync, color loss, etc.) that are simply victims of marginal video levels. Checking the composite video signal normally requires an oscope (oscilloscope). Ideally a test pattern generator is also used to provide the 1Vpp standard video signal that is measured with the oscope. Not many hobbyist have access to this equipment or know how to correctly perform the measurements. So I experimented with video level testing using simpler tools than a oscope. My goal was to have something that worked well, but was cheap and simple to use. After a bit of head banging a clever DiY solution was born. How does ~$20 USD and a couple hours work sound to you? Yes, really. Here's what my DiY FPV Calibration Tool looks like. Spoiler alert: Inside the small 3D printed plastic box is a $8 eBay circuit board and a 9V battery. To calibrate a FPV system you'll need two of them. Both boxes will use identical hardware but with different firmware. Oh you guessed it, Arduino is involved. Come back soon. I'll show you how to build and use it. Your FPV system will thank you. The world will be a better place.
  26. Just wanted to say thank you for this thread.. My fr632 was working with various level of success with different vtxs, luckily I had others to fall back on, now I have a clue about why/how it is how it is. Thanks esp Mr RC Cam
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