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  1. Yesterday
  2. There's some information scattered on the web on tuning. Here's some basic info that I found with a quick google search: Do not expect miracles. Cleanflight's Alt-hold has lower performance than DJI NAZA. That is because Cleanflight was developed for racing; Its GPS and Alt-hold functions are not fully developed. So if you are expecting it to work as good as a DJI Phantom then you will be sorely disappointed. It is important that you prevent sunlight *and* prop wash from affecting the Baro Sensor. It is very sensitive to both of those things. Mine is inside a opaque housing (blocks light) and is covered with soft breathable foam (reduces effect of prop wash). Also, all your props must be in good condition (clean, no damage, straight). They may require balancing; Any prop vibrations will affect the Alt-Hold's performance.
  3. Last week
  4. In case of problem with CleanFlight here is recipe how to install older version (which we know it was working) Please, can you describe PID parameters, because I don't have any idea what I am changing? Even some intuition could be useful. Here is screen from my PID (comparing with yours notice that there is different scale on Proportional and Integral)
  5. You can tweak the ALT-Hold PIDs if you need better performance. I don't move the throttle after enabling Alt-Hold. However, it can be moved to increase/decrease height; But when Alt-Hold is disabled be prepared for a dramatic change in throttle speed (due to the throttle stick's altered position). I don't know. It works in the version of CleanFlight I installed a few months ago.
  6. Hi, I've uploaded MWOSD firmware and one of its feature is that you can change most of the settings via gui interface using your transmitter and goggles. Best regards gc
  7. Hi, I tried to use yours numbers - I do not know exactly if I did, because in my CleanFlight cfg one column had totally different scale - I think it was column with digits after decimal point (I wanted to upload printscrean img but I have problem with connecting to CF). Your values give model which act like it has altitude hold function. Sometimes there are some small niticable jumps. How generally throttle stick supposed to act. Should I configure it before to be "neutral in the middle"? Problem with CF. When I connected my Rodeo 150 to computer I get a warning about non cleanflight firmware when starting CleanFlight. It is not recognizing my drone. I've attached image - previously I had exactly the same numbers of firmware version and other values like on yours printscreens. I've seen that there was an update of CleanFlight. It doesn't support Rodeo 150 anymore? Thanks for the mic recipe. Best regards gc
  8. All four Nav lights are wired in series and operated from one LED driver board. The Strobe/Landing light is two series connected LEDs that are operated from another LED driver. Both boards are powered from the model's 4S LiPO battery. You can use either connection method. But PPM-Sum is the modern way to do it. I suggest a 8+ channel R/C system. For example, you need 4 channels for throttle/pitch/roll/yaw, 1 channel for flight modes, 1 channel for retracts, and usually a couple more channels for OSD or Gimbal operation. Although the hardware will support R/C control of the lights, and was considered, I didn't need it so it is not included in the existing firmware. The good news is that the interrupt driven PPM decoding for a second control channel is already being done for you. So remote on/off of the LEDs is possible, but you'll need to add this functionality if you need it. Correct. Correct. The Servo Stop value is ignored when using the Motor Driver board. The 3-pin connectors on R/C receivers have Ground, 5V, Signal. That is why these signals are shown on the schematic at the J2 & J4 servo plug connections. 5V power for the R/C Receiver and Arduino is provided by the BEC feature from one of the ESCs (the other 3 ESCs' BEC outputs are unused). ESC (x4), Retract Motor Driver, and LED Drivers (x2) are connected to the PDB, which is powered by the 4S flight battery. All grounds are "STAR" connected to the PDB, which serves as a power hub. Power to the 5.8GHz FPV gear is 12V regulated and includes a LC filter to ensure clean video. The ESC's I selected had the dimensions and electrical specs that I needed. But they did not have BLHeli firmware in them, so I had to flash it myself. Some ESC's have BLHeli loaded in them by the factory; BLHeli is very popular for Helicopters & "Drones" due to its optimized performance (versus a common airplane ESC).
  9. Thomas, I had time to dig into this a little more today. The more I look at the code the more impressed I am and now understand how you made this more universal via the config section. I took a good look at the wiring schematics and had some dumb questions that I hope you can help with: -The 4 leds next to the motors operate in the same way from one LED driver board? -PPM sum is the mode in which the receiver communicates to the arduino board? Otherwise you used 2 channels from the receiver to operate the arduino? This would indicate a 6 channel receiver is a minimum requirement? -Nav lights are turned on and off by the receiver signal however what they do after that is based in the code? -Limit 1 and 2 are connected to the limit switches? -MTL and R are connected to the motor driver board and the code as is is set up for this and not a servo with a POT attached? -The servo stop value is still required to stop creep even when the a motor driver board is used? -Why do the inputs require 5V? -Did you run 2 rails or distributions for power? It seems like the ECUs, LED driver boards and motor driver board would need to be hooked up to a high amp distribution block and the rest could be slimmed down with a much smaller gauge wire -Same question for the grounds, did everything just go back to the battery negative? I saw you used some noise reduction on the motor did you need to do anything similar elsewhere? Sorry for the dumb questions this learning curve is steep. While I can track the schematic the practical application of it is something I do not have much experience in. And a totally different question, why flash the ECUs? What does this change or help? Is this still a concern or has the code been improved since you wrote this? Thank you, Si
  10. Worked well for me. But if you run into issues then keep in mind that you can change the code to meet your needs. BTW, after using the auto retract feature for awhile I found I preferred manual control (without auto retract). But everyone is different, so the feature is there for those that want it. The config.h file allows you to choose how the retracts are handled by the assigned radio switch. It does both directions. If this is not desirable then feel free to tweak the code. The PPM Servo Out port is for model airplanes that have official Retract Servos (a special kind of R/C servo). It could also be used with a Continuous rotation servo (a standard servo with the feedback pot removed). These two servo choices were not used in my Inspire installation. As documented, I customized a R/C servo by hacking it with a H-Bridge Amp to drive the motor. A layman's build guide would be great. Thanks for the kind feedback.
  11. lol challenging to build that seems like an understatement given where this began. The thread on this was impressive. Does not look nearly as bad now you have all figured out the kinks. You are right though its expensive. Given the cost of 3D printers now I am surprised you do not get more traffic on this topic. I just bought all the parts to mock up the ardunio setup, I think it will be a little more than I can handle but given you have created the template I am hopeful I can get it somewhat working. I also ordered a distance sensor with more range to it, when checking out the spec sheets I was surprised that the voltage vs distance is not linear and the drop off when it reaches its lower limit. The one you used has a the same profile. Need to check your code to see how you handled that, its not what I expected or the sensor maybe capped before this point. Also seems like it will not tolerate much side to side motion. I did see you are averaging the sensor input. How well did this work in reality? And did you just use the auto to put the gear down and not up? And why did you include a servo spare, front and back wheels? As far as background I have never programmed anything, 3D printed anything, or flown anything lol. Biochemist by trade so I have blown stuff up! I have worked with some electronics, set up a home brew stand with a few PIDs, gas valves, temp probes, and pumps. I can follow your code each piece is intuitive enough, would not be able to write it from scratch though! Bottom line is this is one of the most impressive projects I have seen in a long time. While I know it is advanced it also covers most aspects of RC builds that I would like to learn/master. If you do not feel like answering questions or discussing the build anymore I will understand, no issues there. If you still see value in a layman's guide I can put something together if I get it working. Bottom line is you did an amazing job with this.
  12. This project was finished back in 2015: No new activity since then. It is challenging and rewarding to build. However, it is a fragile model and not suitable as a everyday flyer. Cost is high, requires over a hundred hours of printer time, and many more hours of assembly. It is suitable for someone that has already mastered configuring/flying traditional R/C Quads. It is also helpful to have a prior 3D printer experience. If my Arduino based retract controller is used then C coding and electronic hardware experience would be needed too. Otherwise, skip the Arduino and use the simple diode based limit switch solution instead. The Arduino controller firmware is very sophisticated and should be suitable for planes too. Extra effort was made so that it would be a universal R/C retract & LED controller.
  13. Never mind, did not realize you posted the code, looking at it now. If I can get this working I will document the process. Its more than I expected but you have documented it quite well. I will need to see this in action to fully understand it. Thanks Simon
  14. RC-Cam, I am gong blind reading all the info on this project! Thank you for condensing your build on this page its VERY helpful. After reading all the posts I decided to buy a Prusa i3 and get going on this. I am looking to duplicate your hardware setup as its almost exactly what I was looking to do. I was very interested in Arduino for a few different projects and I think this maybe enough of a push to get into it. Are you still active in this project? The electrical connections seem somewhat straight forward, I do not have any interest in using the hall sensors, and my hold up would be the arduino programming. It seems like that may have killed the last 2 that said they would help with this project! Could you provide this to me so I can have a look at it? If it makes sense I will document the steps for people like myself...good enough to be dangerous. And as far as the steps I am talking about newbe issues with selecting the print plans, printing, buying the parts, what receiver and transmitters to use, getting it all working on a workbench, getting it into the quad, and lastly the Arduino add on. Nothing has been stated about the required receiver channels and hooking these to the Arduino. The LEDs seem fairly simple but triggering this from sensors and coupling the retraction I do not know how to do yet. I would also want to put in some simple variables so the height of up and down have a span between them and be adjustable etc. From what I have seen of the programing so far this would be easy to define at the start of the code. The build will start in 7 weeks, I expect to get all of this done will take me 3 months or so. This is not considering any parts I may need from China as the build progresses. It would be interesting to make this universal for RC Planes etc. Thank you, Simon
  15. Earlier
  16. The Walkera Rodeo 150 is a backyard "racing" mini Quadcopter / drone that's a blast to fly. Mine has been hacked and upgraded with a minimOSD and addressable RGB LED's. But wait, there's more. Now it has Altitude Hold thanks to a cheap barometric sensor module. With the flick of a switch the Rodeo will remain at the current altitude. I also see the realtime altitude data (AGL feet) in my goggles via the minimOSD. I will admit that all the extra features I've added are useless for a serious FPV Racing drone. But I don't consider the Walkera Rodeo to be a professional race machine. It's a FPV backyard speeder that is equally ready for some casual exploring. Given it's dual personality I see nothing wrong with adding some bells and whistles to it. Besides, adding altitude hold to the Rodeo 150 seemed like a interesting challenge. And now that mine has it, I can report that it works great. I'll show how I did it. The Fine Print: It's not a beginner's mod. But simple enough for someone with good fine-pitch soldering skills to do without too much trouble.
  17. The Walkera Rodeo 150 is a small RTF racing Quadcopter (drone) that was officially released mid-2016. It's a blast to fly. I blogged about it here: But the Rodeo 150 doesn't have an OSD (on screen display) to show battery voltage, flight time, and my ham call sign. When I fly FPV I like to see those things. Plus I like being able to change PID parameters using the OSD. So naturally I decided to add it. The Rodeo's FC (Flight Controller) runs on BaseFlight/Cleanflight firmware which supports the popular MinimOSD board. At first glance the OSD's installation seemed impractical due to the limited space in the Rodeo. Fortunately the MinimOSD is now available in a tiny version (16 x 16 mm) called the Micro MinimOSD. Although a tight squeeze, there's just enough room to fit it inside the canopy. Cost is under $10 USD from eBay and other online suppliers.
  18. I purchased some low cost plans ($7 USD) for a DiY 3D printable Quadcopter that was inspired by the DJI Inspire. It has a motorized arm transformation (retract) feature too. Plans are available here: EDIT MAY-02-2016: The rchobbysuk site is now dead (404 error). But revised community designed plans are now available for free: EDIT May-11-2015: Custom 3D printed parts I created are available at no charge (but you'll need the file set from rchobbysuk). My downloads start here: A very lively discussion on user builds is found here: Just so that you can see what I'm trying to duplicate, here's a CAD rendered image from the rchobbysuk web site: Here's the status of my printed parts (after 150+ hours of printing): EDIT / May-05-2015: It Flies! See post #32 for short video. Here's a beauty shot of the finished model.
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