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cdog4w

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About cdog4w

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    RC-Cam Visitor
  1. Hi, I'm new to electronics and pics but not to RC. I race a 18th scale truck and in general dabble in surface rc. I've been meaning to get into the custom electronics side of RC and this site has been an inspiration and a starting point. I picked the RCST project because it is straightforward and will be useful for servo issues in the pit when radios aren't allowed to be on. First I built a 555 based tester but that was only a warmup I ordered the pickit 2 starter pack along with a pic12f509 and all the parts on the bill of materials for the RCST. I flashed the pic and breadboarded the project in < 30 min and it works great with one slight issue. It seems when in manual mode, it doesn't give full travel to one side. When I flip the switch and put it in sweep mode, it will hit the full travel on both sides. I used all parts as listed, but I did use the alternate 5% C1 instead of the 2%. Beyond this issue, I had some more general pic questions. Do these new flash parts have more features than the original C parts that would allow the design to be smaller or use fewer components? From what I've read you're reading the pot via "rc time" using resistors and caps and timing the discharge time to do the analog to digital conversion. Would using a pic12f510 (w/ 8 bit ADC) or a pic12f675 (w/ 10 bit ADC) cut down on the number of parts required? I was wondering if it would be possible to do a data logger with a pic? I know there are many available but the intention would be learning via a useful project. I'm not sure how a pic would read current usage, but I would guess it needs an external circuit of some kind to read w/o being fried. I was wondering if a way around this would be to measure the magnetic field on the battery wire caused by current flow, though perhaps that is too inaccurate. I also have a question about you rccam project. I was thinking of using it to trigger a CVS camcorder (hacked) to record on truck video. I'm thinking the simplest connection would be to just hook up both leads of the physical record button and then bridge them momentarily in the pic to trigger start/stop of recording. Also, this is a surface radio and I don't think the 3rd channel is proportional, so I'd probably need to tailor the project for my needs (different trigger detect, different way of causing start/stop). To sum up, thanks in advance and thanks for having such a cool site/community!
  2. To begin, this site is great, tons of useful information. I've been reading up and have a rough plan of what I can do to improve video quality. To start, this is the specific cam I purchased (looks to be the most recent version of the HK cam): http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=20...-50MW-N&cat=VID And here is the test video (divx 5.11) I shot on a small RC in my office (captured on a desktop using a hauppauge wintv-go pci card): http://cstanleyw4.home.comcast.net/rc/cam_on_car.avi In the video, the camera was running on a 9V battery. The included AC adapter runs at 8V DC and the "instructions" say ~6-12V. The camera was simply taped to the top of the car, no damping whatsoever. As you can see it is also an office environment with plenty of computers, fleorescent lighting and other fun things to throw off the signal. Unfortunately I would like to use this in a similar environment, an indoor rc track. On to my problem and questions. If you watch the video, you will see flashes of color while the car is in motion. The picture is good enough for me when stationary. Since I'm ground based, range will not be as important as picture quality. -It seems like the best solution would be to first build a patch antenna for the receiver. Unfortunately I don't have access to a frequency counter and cannot afford to purchase one currently. I will try calling an electronics store to see if they would let me test by bringing the camera + 9V to the store, but I doubt I will have luck there. If this fails I will attempt using 1.1GHz or so since most people have said there system is around that frequency. I am also wondering if this type of antenna is suitable for rc car use. Seems like the answer is yes if oriented properly. Also of note is that the connector on the receiver is normal coax (type F I think?) and not SMA. -People also suggest that the 9V battery is a poor power source and a regulated power supply would be better. If this is the case, I could either patch into the car's lipo (2 cell, peaks at 8.4V and is usually around 7.5V when I'm done) or get a separate lipo to power the camera/transmitter. Not regulated but better than a 9V? -If that doesn't solve it, my next step would be to mod the transmitter antenna. The ground plane antenna is recommended, but I also noticed that the antenna is not cut to the proper length (as debated in multiple threads) and is about 3.5" or 90mm. It seems people have had luck cutting it to 65mm, but I would rather leave modding the transmitter to the last resort. I have basic rc soldering skills so I could probably replace the antenna if the cut to 65mm doesn't work. Thanks in advance for any help!
  3. Haven't tried this, but it fits your needs and is relatively cheap (~$21 after rebate). If not this you could go with a larger hauppauge or similar USB capture rig. Hope this helps. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16815100112 I just joined the forum since I picked up one of the "1.2 GHz" systems and plan to use it on an RC car. My first attempt in an office turned up so so results: http://cstanleyw4.home.comcast.net/rc/cam_on_car.avi I assume conditions aren't optimal, computers and metal everywhere, fluorescent lighting etc. but I still hoped for better. You mentioned that you had range improvements as well as picture. For me range won't be an issue (ground vs. air), but picture most definitely is. Do you think the patch antenna on the Rx side will help clean up the picture? The problem is only when the camera is moving, the stationary picture is more than adequate for my needs. Thanks in advance and I'll keep reading up
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