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Attention: RC-CAM.com will be closing down August 2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This is being announced now (March 2021) so that everyone has time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.


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About ebayrcer

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    RC-Cam Visitor
  1. The Aiptek MPVR version appears a bit darker to me, or am I just imagining it?
  2. That did it. Wouldn't you know it, my S2 solder joint was bad. I know becuase I desoldered it, then held the wire firmly against it while I checked the voltage of Pin 3 on the PIC: 3.30V! I resoldered S2 and now it works flawlessly. Thanks again for the help, Mr. RC-Cam. It's not the first time, and I greatly appreciate it. As for the MPVR, another really nice feature is that you can record straight from a TV or DVD player/VCR so you can in essence, use it as a portable DVD player (provided that you have an SD card with a large enough capacity). I was able to fit 63 minutes, 28 seconds o
  3. I will have to try jumping pins 3 and 8 but I really do not think it is going to matter, considering that pin 3 is already reading 0 volts. I'll take yet another look at my soldering. As a test, couldn't I hold a jumper wire between S2 and pin 3? Wouldn't that tell me if my problem is a loose solder joint b/w the two ends of the shutter circuit? Also, did you (Mr. RC-Cam) melt any of the beige colored plastic on the outside of the shutter switch 'housing' (while trying to solder the wire to the S2 pad)? I did, but I'm pretty sure it didn't affect anything, because I can still take pics all
  4. I resoldered the shutter switch wire (the one which goes to S2 on the cam), this time to the exact spot shown in the picture. I still am unable to trip the shutter using the CamMan circuit. Here are the readings I am getting from my voltmeter: PIN1 = 3.52V+ PIN2 = 0.0V+ (no voltage) PIN3 = 0.0V+ (no voltage) PIN4 = 0.26 PIN5 = 3.52V+ (as with PIN1) PIN6= 3.46V+ (as with PIN1) PIN7= 3.46V+ (as with PIN1) PIN8= N/A (GND) Furthermore, the shutter will not activate when I jump PIN3 and PIN4 together (usual shutter activation). My first question: Shouldn't PIN3 by itself (without
  5. Mr. RC-Cam (or anyone else who knows the answers to these questions), I. The prospect of *FREE* appeals very much to me, and since Microchip no longer offers free samples of 12C508A, I am considering using a 12F508 for future projects (LOMA for example), since Microchip does offer free samples of the 12F508 line. The problem that I am faced with, is which PIC will work in place of 12C508/9A? Here are the three (free sample eligible) variants: PIC12F508-I/MS PIC12F508-I/P (direct replacement for 12C508A-04/P?) PIC12F508-I/SN II. On a side note, I recently took on the CamManSD proje
  6. I am interested in installing GPS in my r/c plane so that I can locate it more easily when it goes down (LOMA just isn't very practical for the area where I fly). Anyone have any helpful suggestions for a low cost setup? All I really need, is for the plane to send out a beacon giving its position in a format that can be tracked using a handheld gps receiver, or even via the Internet. Also, Mr. RC-Cam, where do I start to obtain my ham license? Thanks, - Ebayrcer -
  7. Thanks for all your help Mr. RC-Cam, and the pre-programmed PIC. That did the trick! I now have it mounted on my Wingo, and am taking some pretty decent pics with it. Thanks again, - Ebayrcer -
  8. That is correct. I don't have any spare PICs. I just figured that as long as I followed the directions correctly, I wouldn't have any problems (plus, I am on a pretty tight hobby budget). Unfortunately, the cheapest I can find (2) 12C508As is through Mouser for about $8 (only $2.02 accounts for the actual cost of the 2 PICs), the rest covers the charges for shipping via UPS. Needless to say, I am regretting not having ordered a couple extra PICs when I placed my first order. When a PIC is completely blank (new out of the package), should it read all zeroes for the hex values when you do a Read
  9. I'm pretty sure it is toast, though I can't understand why, because, according to the settings you posted on the CamMan Aiptek page, I did everything correctly. In direct answer to your question, I opened up the hex file, "cm_Av12.hex", and the WDT and MCLR options were UNCHECKED. The CP option had a checkmark, and the Oscillator value was IntRC. I hit the Program All button, it asked me to confirm Yes or No if I was sure I wanted to program it. I clicked Yes and it went through the programming process (status bar seen as before, although this time it did not take as much time to program the P
  10. I see both points, I don't know how I could have overlooked that important detail (the notch being backward). I reoriented it correctly and reprogrammed, and here are the results. BTW it says "Verified successfully", not "Verify failed". When I do a Blank Check, it says, "Device NOT blank at address 0040h". Here is what I get when I click "Read All" on the PIC (can be seen behind the small "Device NOT blank" dialog box):
  11. I loaded the hex file, selected 12C508A as the device, then made sure that WDT and MCLR were disabled, CP enabled, and IntRC for the Oscillator setting. I hit "Program All" and a Warning dialog box popped up prompting me with, No "Oscillator Calibration Value" found. Do you want to use the value from file (0FFFh) instead? [Yes] [No] I chose "No" and it popped up with the "Programming code (512) bytes" status bar. At the end, it gave an Error dialog box which read, Verify failed at address 0000h ! I clicked OK then clicked the Read All button and it
  12. Sorry, I meant to include a brief explanation of the picture I attached in the previous post. In the picture, the small black square is a representation of the 8-pin PIC chip, and the tiny dark gray square (on the right side of the small black square) is the dimple to indicate PIN 1 of the PIC. Go to this page for the instructions and a clearer picture of the programmer. - Ebayrcer -
  13. I think now we're starting to get somewhere. I thought I had programmed the PIC correctly (every indication in the software and with the programmer's blinking LED made it appear so) even though it gave the Verify error at the end (as indicated in the FAQ as being a normal occurrence). I even saw the status bar pop up and move from left to right (taking longer than 1 minute to finish) as it supposedly programmed the PIC. Is there any way I can read/reprogram the PIC without ruining it, or do I need to buy a new PIC and start over from the beginning?
  14. Here are the voltage readings which I recorded from my setup: On the PIC: PIN1 = 3.30V+ PIN2 = 0.0V+ (no current) PIN3= 2.70V+ PIN4= 0.22 V+ (full "UP" throttle stick position), 0.30V+ ("MIDDLE" position), 0.38V+ ("BOTTOM" position). PIN5 = 3.30V+ (same as PIN1) PIN6= 0.0V+ (no current) PIN7= 0.0V+ (no current) PIN8= N/A (GND) Furthermoe, the cam stored pics when I jumped PIN3 and PIN4 together (usual shutter activation). On the Camera board: Cam PWR (top pin on USB can (reference pic B) = 5.01V+ For now, I will have to rely on this information only, since I do not yet
  15. Hello all (and Mr. RC-Cam), I am hoping that someone here has had the same experience and can hopefully steer me in the right direction. Here is what is going on when I connect the cam up and try to arm it for snapping photos. The cam powers up fine when I plug it into a spare channel, or share it with the throttle via a Y-cable. However, I am unable to get the cam to arm, and therefore, it will not take any pics. I double-checked my wiring to be certain that I did not solder anything backwards - everything looked fine, although some of the joints appeared as though they could use some reso
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