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ebayrcer

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Everything posted by ebayrcer

  1. The Aiptek MPVR version appears a bit darker to me, or am I just imagining it?
  2. That did it. Wouldn't you know it, my S2 solder joint was bad. I know becuase I desoldered it, then held the wire firmly against it while I checked the voltage of Pin 3 on the PIC: 3.30V! I resoldered S2 and now it works flawlessly. Thanks again for the help, Mr. RC-Cam. It's not the first time, and I greatly appreciate it. As for the MPVR, another really nice feature is that you can record straight from a TV or DVD player/VCR so you can in essence, use it as a portable DVD player (provided that you have an SD card with a large enough capacity). I was able to fit 63 minutes, 28 seconds of a 1 hour, 21 minute movie onto a 512MB card, then picked up where I left off with a 256MB card (for the remaining 18 or so minutes). One thing I noticed about the MPVR, is that the battery power gets used unless you have the cam connected via USB, which sort of sucks. However, Aiptek does sell a power-in adapter on their site for $9.99. Is this completely proprietary and thus, there is no way to make a home design of this component, or it is definitely doable and at a significant reduction in cost? Happy flying! - ebayrcer - P.S. Have you posted any links of your video since buying the MPVR? If so, can you send me some?
  3. I will have to try jumping pins 3 and 8 but I really do not think it is going to matter, considering that pin 3 is already reading 0 volts. I'll take yet another look at my soldering. As a test, couldn't I hold a jumper wire between S2 and pin 3? Wouldn't that tell me if my problem is a loose solder joint b/w the two ends of the shutter circuit? Also, did you (Mr. RC-Cam) melt any of the beige colored plastic on the outside of the shutter switch 'housing' (while trying to solder the wire to the S2 pad)? I did, but I'm pretty sure it didn't affect anything, because I can still take pics all day long by manually pressing the shutter button. I'll check everything out and get back to you. Back to the MPVR, what settings do you use to get the best results? Does yours work great for recording the downlinked video? I bought a Swann Microcam II on eBay last week, so I would like to hook it up to my MPVR and see what the results are. I really just want to experiment with making fun little videos. As long as it works decent, this will suit me for now. Later on though (when I will hopefully have more money to work with), I will probably get a BlackWidow AV solution. As to the quality of the video, I was somewhat disappointed. Do you know much about video editing, and if you do, can you give me any tips on how/what software to use to get the most out of the ASF video clips the cam creates? For instance, will reencoding them in another format improve the quality at all? Thanks, - ebayrcer -
  4. I resoldered the shutter switch wire (the one which goes to S2 on the cam), this time to the exact spot shown in the picture. I still am unable to trip the shutter using the CamMan circuit. Here are the readings I am getting from my voltmeter: PIN1 = 3.52V+ PIN2 = 0.0V+ (no voltage) PIN3 = 0.0V+ (no voltage) PIN4 = 0.26 PIN5 = 3.52V+ (as with PIN1) PIN6= 3.46V+ (as with PIN1) PIN7= 3.46V+ (as with PIN1) PIN8= N/A (GND) Furthermore, the shutter will not activate when I jump PIN3 and PIN4 together (usual shutter activation). My first question: Shouldn't PIN3 by itself (without the jumper wire connected b/w it and S2 (shutter switch pad) show a voltage reading (meaning that it is getting + from the PIC and not the cam's USB power)? Or does the shutter switch in fact derive its power from the cam's USB power? My second question: Is it possible to fry just one pin on a PIC while the rest remain unharmed? If so, then I guess I will simply have to wait until my free PIC samples get here (at least 2 weeks from now, bummer, oh well...) to retry soldering the PIC connections. Oh and btw Mr. RC-Cam, the 256MB SD card is now working again, after formatting it in the MPVR. I saw your post in rcgroups re: the MPVR, did you end up getting one? Thanks again, - ebayrcer -
  5. Mr. RC-Cam (or anyone else who knows the answers to these questions), I. The prospect of *FREE* appeals very much to me, and since Microchip no longer offers free samples of 12C508A, I am considering using a 12F508 for future projects (LOMA for example), since Microchip does offer free samples of the 12F508 line. The problem that I am faced with, is which PIC will work in place of 12C508/9A? Here are the three (free sample eligible) variants: PIC12F508-I/MS PIC12F508-I/P (direct replacement for 12C508A-04/P?) PIC12F508-I/SN II. On a side note, I recently took on the CamManSD project but am having problems with getting the shutter to fire. I soldered PIC pin 3 to the very top-right corner of the shutter button SMT (proper nomenclature?) where it says S2, but noticed that in Mr. RC-Cam's pics of object A, it appears that the wire was soldered to the lower-right corner. See this side-by-side comparison (the yellow line in the pic on the right is a representation of the location to which I soldered the wire) for an idea of what I am talking about. III. Furthermore, I am getting "Err" on the LCD when I try to use my 256MB SD card, but have no problems using my 512MB SD card. What's even more bizarre, is that the 256MB SD works fine in my Aiptek MPVR! Anyone else have the same issue? * If any of these three questions (as denoted by Roman Numerals) are not appropriate for this sub-forum, I apologize and could someone direct me to which section of the forum *would* be most appropriate for posting in, and moving said questions to? * Again, thanks for the help! - ebayrcer -
  6. I am interested in installing GPS in my r/c plane so that I can locate it more easily when it goes down (LOMA just isn't very practical for the area where I fly). Anyone have any helpful suggestions for a low cost setup? All I really need, is for the plane to send out a beacon giving its position in a format that can be tracked using a handheld gps receiver, or even via the Internet. Also, Mr. RC-Cam, where do I start to obtain my ham license? Thanks, - Ebayrcer -
  7. Thanks for all your help Mr. RC-Cam, and the pre-programmed PIC. That did the trick! I now have it mounted on my Wingo, and am taking some pretty decent pics with it. Thanks again, - Ebayrcer -
  8. That is correct. I don't have any spare PICs. I just figured that as long as I followed the directions correctly, I wouldn't have any problems (plus, I am on a pretty tight hobby budget). Unfortunately, the cheapest I can find (2) 12C508As is through Mouser for about $8 (only $2.02 accounts for the actual cost of the 2 PICs), the rest covers the charges for shipping via UPS. Needless to say, I am regretting not having ordered a couple extra PICs when I placed my first order. When a PIC is completely blank (new out of the package), should it read all zeroes for the hex values when you do a Read All on it? Also, is this the best place on the forum (RC-Cam Projects) for posting difficulties in programming the PIC with the Olimex PG2C programmer? If not, can you recommend a more specific area in the forum that would be more likely to attract some attention? Thanks again for all your help, it is most appreciated.
  9. I'm pretty sure it is toast, though I can't understand why, because, according to the settings you posted on the CamMan Aiptek page, I did everything correctly. In direct answer to your question, I opened up the hex file, "cm_Av12.hex", and the WDT and MCLR options were UNCHECKED. The CP option had a checkmark, and the Oscillator value was IntRC. I hit the Program All button, it asked me to confirm Yes or No if I was sure I wanted to program it. I clicked Yes and it went through the programming process (status bar seen as before, although this time it did not take as much time to program the PIC). I'm pretty sure it is toast. When I do a Read All, it should show the same HEX as what I see when I first load your HEX file, correct? For instance, at address 0000, I should see: 0025 0A17 0A03 0219 0643 0A16 0C01 0028 %...C.. Is that correct? Also, would you happen to have any spare PICs you would be willing to sell to me (via PayPal) and ship USPS First Class Mail to me? If not, is there a section in the forum where I can post this request to other members? On another completely different note, do you still sell pre-programmed PICs (I hate to go this route though, considering that I have already invested in my own programmer, but if I don't have a choice, then I don't have a choice)?
  10. I see both points, I don't know how I could have overlooked that important detail (the notch being backward). I reoriented it correctly and reprogrammed, and here are the results. BTW it says "Verified successfully", not "Verify failed". When I do a Blank Check, it says, "Device NOT blank at address 0040h". Here is what I get when I click "Read All" on the PIC (can be seen behind the small "Device NOT blank" dialog box):
  11. I loaded the hex file, selected 12C508A as the device, then made sure that WDT and MCLR were disabled, CP enabled, and IntRC for the Oscillator setting. I hit "Program All" and a Warning dialog box popped up prompting me with, No "Oscillator Calibration Value" found. Do you want to use the value from file (0FFFh) instead? [Yes] [No] I chose "No" and it popped up with the "Programming code (512) bytes" status bar. At the end, it gave an Error dialog box which read, Verify failed at address 0000h ! I clicked OK then clicked the Read All button and it gave me all 0FFF's (which I believe means that it did not program the PIC). I further verified this by doing a Blank Check, which returned a message saying "Device is blank". I tried programming the PIC again, only this time, clicking Yes when asked if I wanted to use the Oscillator Calibration Value from file 0FFFh. I got the same Error dialog box which read, Verify failed at address 0000h !. I hit Read All, and got back all 0FFF's again, and the Blank Check still said "Device is blank". Am I doing something wrong? More importantly, is this PIC chip fried?
  12. Sorry, I meant to include a brief explanation of the picture I attached in the previous post. In the picture, the small black square is a representation of the 8-pin PIC chip, and the tiny dark gray square (on the right side of the small black square) is the dimple to indicate PIN 1 of the PIC. Go to this page for the instructions and a clearer picture of the programmer. - Ebayrcer -
  13. I think now we're starting to get somewhere. I thought I had programmed the PIC correctly (every indication in the software and with the programmer's blinking LED made it appear so) even though it gave the Verify error at the end (as indicated in the FAQ as being a normal occurrence). I even saw the status bar pop up and move from left to right (taking longer than 1 minute to finish) as it supposedly programmed the PIC. Is there any way I can read/reprogram the PIC without ruining it, or do I need to buy a new PIC and start over from the beginning?
  14. Here are the voltage readings which I recorded from my setup: On the PIC: PIN1 = 3.30V+ PIN2 = 0.0V+ (no current) PIN3= 2.70V+ PIN4= 0.22 V+ (full "UP" throttle stick position), 0.30V+ ("MIDDLE" position), 0.38V+ ("BOTTOM" position). PIN5 = 3.30V+ (same as PIN1) PIN6= 0.0V+ (no current) PIN7= 0.0V+ (no current) PIN8= N/A (GND) Furthermoe, the cam stored pics when I jumped PIN3 and PIN4 together (usual shutter activation). On the Camera board: Cam PWR (top pin on USB can (reference pic B) = 5.01V+ For now, I will have to rely on this information only, since I do not yet have a way of taking close-ups of my work. I'll try to borrow a family member's digital cam tomorrow so I can take some close-ups and post them for reference/t-shooting. Thanks again Mr. RC-Cam, - Ebayrcer -
  15. Hello all (and Mr. RC-Cam), I am hoping that someone here has had the same experience and can hopefully steer me in the right direction. Here is what is going on when I connect the cam up and try to arm it for snapping photos. The cam powers up fine when I plug it into a spare channel, or share it with the throttle via a Y-cable. However, I am unable to get the cam to arm, and therefore, it will not take any pics. I double-checked my wiring to be certain that I did not solder anything backwards - everything looked fine, although some of the joints appeared as though they could use some resoldering. I resoldered all of the PIC chip connections at the PIC end of the circuit, but did not resolder the five wires (USB pwr, USB gnd, Shutter switch [SW1], PIC pwr - reference pic D [wire soldered to top of chip near bottom of camera board], PIC gnd - reference pic E [wire soldered to bottom of chip near bottom of camera board]) soldered to the camera end of the circuit. I know that there is nothing wrong with the USB pwr and USB gnd wires because the cam powers up fine, it just will not arm and shoot photos (PIC functionality). I just got a digital multimeter for testing yesterday, but did not have time to test anything before I left for work (I work 3rd shift). I hope to find some time to test the connections today, and will post the results later on. On a separate note, I had to do some extensive bending of the PIC pins (I have the 12C508A chip) to get it to fit properly in my programmer (even though I followed the instructions for my programmer to the letter), because the pins were too far apart to be inserted properly in the socket. Is this normal? I am using an Olimex PG2C programmer which connects to a PC via the serial port. - ebayrcer -
  16. ::UPDATE:: As of 1/14/06 (yesterday), a Digi-Key rep informed me that Part # 399-1880-1-ND is now also obsolete, and has been replaced with Part # 399-4454-1-ND. This information also pertains to the capacitor in the parts list for the Lost Model Alarm (which listed 1203PHCT in the BOM on its page). Cheers! - ebayrcer -
  17. CamMan, I am very interested in setting up my Wingo with an Aiptek Pencam Trio that I just purchased on ebay. It looked so much like the 1.3 that I saw elsewhere so I went ahead and got it. Everything looks really similar, given that fact, I'm hoping that all of the circuitry will be the same. Here is the auction page: VGA Aiptek Pencam Trio on ebay. Do you think it will work, CamMan? I would appreciate any input you can provide. Also, since I am completely new to this facet of r/c flying, I needed a PIC chip programmer. I found this one on ebay: Olimex PG2C. Will this work? Now on to the *real* reason for this post: Digi-Key no longer carries part # 1203PHCT in their inventory (obsolete product). They now offer part # 399-1880-1-ND (according to the LiveChat sales support rep, it is a direct replacement which offers identical properties/features). I just thought you might like to know this to keep the CamMan Aiptek page as up-to-date as possible. Also, can you tell me what brand soldering iron you use for your projects (looked like a red unit in one of the pics on the site), or do I simply need a 30 watt temp adjustable iron? It's been a while since I did hardcore soldering of circuits, so I'll practice on some old PCBs I have lying around the house before I commence soldering on the Pencam. Thanks for all the time you have contributed to this fun hobby! - ebayrcer -
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