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About chargenut

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    RC-Cam Visitor
  • Birthday 03/24/1971

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    Surrey, UK
  1. This might have been asked before, and I might have missed it... but has anyone looked at hooking up an AR9000 to a circuit like this? Is there a limitation of the speed of a PIC to process more than 7 channels for each channel "block". I am looking to get a module for my PCM9XII (9 channel) and am holding off till there is a way to connect the AR9000 to the MK... I actually re-compile my MK HEX to use channel 9 for shutter (through CHDK and a 5v feed from the LED pins to my Canon A620). I was tempted to build something myself, but you guys are so far along the road that it would be a shame not to ask here first. Cheers, Terry.
  2. Hi Mr. RC CAM, Good point on the Caps on the VReg... I'd like to say I checked this before bolting the component onto my design... but I didn't, having said that... it appears from the Datasheet that Caps aren't required on that VReg (but can be added for good practice/better stability). Looks like I got lucky in not adding them!!! What I wasn't sure of, is whether a 400ma VReg would be sufficient to run the circuit... Anyway, if anyone spots any other issues let me know, Cheers, Terry.
  3. How easy would it be for me to get a slightly modified version of the CamManXP HEX file from Mr. RC-CAM. The modification I'd like is to sweep the servo multiple times rather than just once. The reason for this request is the fact that I've built a CamManXP for a friend that he is using to fire a Prism Switch from his Aerobird Xtreme. When he presses his "fire" button, the Prism pulses an orange light (fires) but the camera shutter doesn't fire. He's found that is he tries the Prism on a receiver he can get a pretty regular shutter fire by, in his words, "waggling the stick", (multiple full sweeps of the servo channel). Was wondering if the CamManXP code could be temporarily changed and re-compiled (just for little ol' me) to run a loop over the servo sweep code to sweep the servo (without a delay in the middle) a few times, each time the XPORT button is pressed? Alternatively knowledge of the XPORT pulses from the plane would be useful as I now have a program written by myself (using bits and pieces from others code) that controls a servo (using a PIC12F629) but don't know how to read the XPORT, (I'm historically a developer, so coding isn't an issue, just knowledge of the XPORT protocol). Any help would be greatly received!!! Many Thanks, Chargenut.
  4. No I have to say that I didn't, based on the fact that I generally give my camera about 2 seconds to prepare for the next shot, and therefore the 1.5 secs delay wasn't a problem for me. If it would be benefitial to you to know, I could retrive the unit back out of the plane and re-solder it for Pin 3... Let me know if you'd like me to do that and I'll let you know the outcome... The other option is I'm sure to be making another one of these very soon for a friend so could test this on the Breadboard when I program my next chip and post the results here (this will happen in the next week or so, after I've finished building a CamManXP for another friend of mine). Busy, Busy, Busy!!! Thanks again for the help, Terry.
  5. Hi All, Thanks for all the help, but I now have a working CamMan . I rebuilt the CamMan with a newly programmed PIC and a new Opto Isolator, on a Breadboard so that I could more easily check everything out. I wired everything up and checked the results with my Ohm meter. I got the same results as before... (a continuity swing of the meter) so I plugged in my Camera and low and behold I got a shot (using the longer timed Pin 2 Wakeup signal). I must admit to "going with the flow" before on the component positions on my veroboard last time I built the circuit, so this time I planned it out using some graph paper and built the curcuit carefully and with as little "soldering iron" time on the components as possible. I checked the results afterwards and all works brilliantly, I now have the CamMan in my Easystar AP plane with the camera and it all works in situ. Thanks everyone for your help. Not sure what the problem was (as this curcuit matches the last one), other than the more careful soldering. Maybe I cooked something? Anyway, brilliant CamMan circuit, which replaces my servo/microswitch lash up, many thanks for providing the HEX code and Schematics. Terry Mansell AKA Chargenut
  6. The Opto Isolator I have was brought from Maplin here in the uk the model number is SFH618-2 (url link I hope should work:- http://www.maplin.co.uk/home.aspx?&doy=8m1) Not sure that this was the right one to be honest, but it look very similar, are there any others in the range that might be more appropriate? Tried swapping the wires over on the camera, but didn't help Many Thanks for you help, Chargenut
  7. Hi Mr. RC-Cam Thanks for the VERY prompt reply. It's 03:33 am here in the UK but I'm determined to get this working!!! I tried the changes that you suggested and sure enough you are correct the time that the Opto Isolator pins are shorted has been extended to far more than it was, but alas my camera still won't fire!!! I've made a short video that explains my testing so far (in the last 10-15 mins and after your suggested change). It shows the CamMan shorting the pins on the Opto Isolator (via a 1K ohms meter test for continuity), then it shows the camera firing when the "external shutter pins" are shorted (to prove the connection in the camera), then it shows the camera connected to the CamMan but not firing. The camera is a bit slow to fire to be honest, but I think it should be ok with the delay on the Opto after your suggested change. Of yes one other thing... although not shown on video I have tried to short the pins of the Opto (emulating the CamMan) and the camera does fire, so the connection from the camera to the board is a good one. Many Thanks for your help so far... Here's a link to that Video:- http://www.terrymansell.co.uk/CamMan/CamManTest.wmv Chargenut
  8. I've just built the CamMan and have a little problem. It appears that the Opto Isolator (i've added as per your instructions for non-Aiptek cameras) doesn't short my camera shutter button for long enough. I've checked the shorting works but it seems to be for a VERY short period of time. Is there any way I can increase this time, to give my camera chance to fire? Many thanks, Chargenut
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