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Attention: RC-CAM.com will be closing down August 2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This is being announced now (March 2021) so that everyone has time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.


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About Maximundo

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    RC-Cam Visitor

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    Honolulu Hawaii
  1. Well I haven't found a suitable shade for the camera but I can almost guarantee that with a good shade, outdoor video images will be improved. As the camera is, the first glass filter or lens is very convex and bulges almost out of its housing. Any bright light that strikes it on a sharp angel is bound to interfere with light coming in directly. Anyway the camera is installed in a Tamiya Blackfoot body I picked up a couple of weeks ago. I only paid a buck for it so drilling holes in it was no problem. Come to find out the body has considerable value on e-bay. But as it stands now, I'm happy
  2. On second thought instead of a shade maybe a different lens. I took a lens out of a Ezonics web-cam and it fit. But it just happened to be the same focal length and probably the same aperture size. I noticed a web sight that sells lenses for board cameras. I haven’t checked yet but if I can find one with a high F-stop number (small aperture, wide depth of field), and a suitable focal length, I may solve the color smear problem. And end up with a lens that keeps everything in focus.
  3. http://photos.imageevent.com/maximundo/ebay//cam6.jpg This is what it looks like under a 60watt incandescent light. The picture can look sharper than this using the TC3’s movement to focus instead of monkeying with the dial on the camera. Bright light will knock it back to the 60s and put it in a purple haze. Yesterday I brought the set up down the street a couple blocks to try to evaluate the long-range video transmission quality. The sun was waxing and waning (in and out) and the video was pure rainbow city. The camera is definitely not for out doors. But when testing it indoors by placing
  4. Yes the Specifications are from Panasonic’s GP-CX161 @ rock2000.com. I’m considering buying a GP-KX121 or maybe a GP-CX171 but have concerns about my TX’s built in dc-dc converter. With the existing camera and TX set-up, it’s using 250ma. Without the camera it’s pulling 200ma. So the existing camera is only using 50ma but the GP-CX161 uses 130 mA at 5 Volts. Also Min Illumination is 5 Lux @ F2.6. The existing camera’s usable illumination is only 0.5 Lux, not sure what the lens aperture or focal Length is on it. Anyway right now I’m just evaluating the potential of my TX-Rx system and wir
  5. I know in the 10-meter band, commonly available ground plane antennas were ¼ wave and 5/8 wave. So maybe specific fractions of the wave can in fact have considerable influence on impedance. From what I gather RF is not fully understood, a bit of a mystery.
  6. After making an antenna following yb2normal’s design http://www.yb2normal.com/antenna3.html. I noticed a definite improvement in performance. I set up the original receiver’s video out to a camcorder, walked out of the room with the camera and original antenna and battery pack in hand, proceeded to the living room and then out the front door. The ground plane antenna I made was a little simpler and eZ'er to make. The shielding braid was used as the ground plane element. I just separated the strands into 4 equal bunches and then just twisted then together and then tined them. http://photos.
  7. Mr. RC-CAM is the MAN: “is there any chance you had the camera's video wiring reversed at the Sony's input? Inverted video polarity will be very goofy looking.” Yes, behold: http://photos.imageevent.com/maximundo/ele...cs//hi8set2.jpg http://photos.imageevent.com/maximundo/ele...cs//hi8daz2.jpg What I had labeled, as video should have been connected to the shield element of the video signal and –5v were for the shielded center element. Just a simple reversal was all it took. So my next questions are how do I integrate a board camera to a 3 element TX with specifications like th
  8. If I’m not mistaken RF radiation travels at the speed of light 300,000 kilometers per sec divided by 2400,000,000 (frequency used) = 0.000125 x 1000 = 0.125 meters x 100 = 12.5 centimeter (full wave) divided by 4 = 3.125 cm x 10 = 31.25mm for a ¼ wave antenna. Please correct me if my formula is incorrect. RE to: http://www.yb2normal.com/antenna3.html “The ground legs are cut to exactly 3cm in length, measured from the bend. The signal wire is also cut to 3cm” Has anyone tried trimming this ground plane antenna and ended up with a decline in efficiency? I’m not trying to nit-pick but w
  9. This camera system was found on e-bay it was only $44,99 SH included. According to the advertisement and the owners manual it’s operating frequency band is 2.414 to 2.468 GHz. I bought it to attach to a TC3 1/10 scale RC car and to possibly improve its performance. The camera circuit is attached to the audio and video transmitter by only a three-element wire. +5v, -5v and video. I tried to transmit a video signal from a hi8 Sony camcorder but the picture looked like it was scrambled. I’m not sure if I could use a higher resolution camera or not. So I’m asking for advice on modifying video
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