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Attention: RC-CAM.com will be closing down August 2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This is being announced now (March 2021) so that everyone has time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.


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About mieczotronix

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  • Birthday 07/29/1971

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    Warsaw, Poland
  1. For your purposes (orientation metering) you may assume the compass is just a ball with eccentrically positioned weight enclosed in a transparent sphere immersed in some fluid. The weight is inside the compass ball, at its bottom. That's why the ball keeps orientating iselfs. Disregarding magnetic properties of the compass, which are irrelevant here (unless you'd like to orientate your plane relative to magnetic North), what'you re about to do is to take a pendulum (which is the eccetricaly weighed ball) and measure its movements. So you're basically trying to develop a crude accelerometer. It
  2. I use FMA Co-pilot and it seems to work pretty well. It's not dependent on light as it senses the IR radiation of earth vs. sky. The manufacturer claims it will work at night as well. However it may have some difficulties when flying over snow, water or in between mountains (it needs flat horizon). I guess it's the best one can achieve. However, you won't eliminate wing swaying completely with neither of these systems (IR, visible light, gyro, etc.) as all of them work to the same principle - i.e. first the plane has to move a little so a sensor can detect the movement and force plane contr
  3. Ok, I bought the gear I asked 'bout in the previous post. Here's how it looks on the fuse kind of funny looking, but I hope it will perform well on tall grass the landing gear and wheels are very light, it's not noticeably heavier than stock lg with 2 3/4 " wheels. I've also bought a clever tailgear with built in servo saver (those springs) I'll cut away some balsa from the fuse, put 8mm plywood instead and fix the tailgear to that.
  4. Ok. Thanks for your suggestions. I am now preparing to buy some gear. Tell me what do you think about this 1) Kavan (German) 125 mm inflatable tyres (that's almost 5") 2) Carbon landing gear: width 390 mm (15") / height 185 mm (7") 3) HS 225BB for ailerons (fast) 4) HS322HD for flaps (can be slow -> low current draw) 5) HS82MG for rudder & elev (fast, powerful and heavy-duty) 6) 38mm (1.5") tail wheel with some kind of alu brace for attaching it to the fuselage 7) 6mm (4 1/4") carbon rod + 7/6.22 mm brass pipe - for bayonet mount for wing + 8mm plywood for wing mount 8) 5
  5. Thanks. That's the one I've been building, except its kit rather than ARF. So from what you've been saying it is tail heavy, right? So maybe I should thin it out a little by building framework rudder and tail rather than solid one? Should I really try to lighten it up at rear or that is not as much important and I will balance it somehow. How much bigger? Since I have to order a pair anyway, maybe I go straight for the biggies? I think I did read all posts about Telemaster Electro here and on rcgroups. But it seems like everyone got ARF version. Thanks for other pointers,
  6. Hi. Having read all the good stuff about weight-carrying capacity of Telemaster I decided to build one myself. I ordered a kit from HL USA. This involved some hassle, as I had to use a third party shipping company to carry the oversized box by sea to me. After two months of expectations the kit arrived and I've started building my Electro Telemaster (HL kit - 180 cm wingspan) from scratch. I wanted to build a kit so I could easily adapt it to carry my payload. At the moment it is an Ixus, a small cam on pandora pan&tilt + some more stuff like eagletree data recorder, hexpert zlog ,some o
  7. I already purchased a kx-131 clone and put it on pandora, but I miss resolution of this cam that's why I've been still thinking about it. I've had also an opportunity to see this cam's waveforms hoping they will point me to some kind of solution. Supply-wise I run the cam of 3s lipo. It is rated 12V and it manages to work with unchanged signal parameters until something in the range of 9.6V then it just shuts off. So I guess power supply is not the issue here. The cam has CXD3141R sensor onboard, I've see someone posting CXD3142R datasheet in another post. The cam has its chip's serial line
  8. Well, your probably right about that. But I just made one more test before I give up on it. Here it is: When I added a 10k pot across gnd and vid out, even the slightest movement of the pot makes the signal fed to my monitor drop to 0.3V And here is the difference it makes: before (bare camera) and after obviously the 0.3V signal is not that transmitter or osd likes, but this somehow leads me to believe that AGC is not the real cause here. If the washout would be due to AGC, when I reduce the voltage the clipping should still be on the picture, yet in this case you can see tha
  9. ok, thanks, I still wonder if this is AGC because the same thing happens in broad daylight, everything igets overexposed. While observiing the waveform on scope I also discovered that when I move the cam towards/away bright light source, the whole waveform shifts up and down by some 0.1-0.2 V. A I think the waveform is clipped at the same height when the cam points to a bright source, the clipping is already visible on the right side of the first picture, I manipulated the cam to get as much clipping as possible. I'll try this evening to connect a 100k pot across gnd and cam_Vid-out to se
  10. Can anyone clever enough please tell me what's wrong with this camera. First of all in this setup I mean in dark room with camera lens pointed to a black box... ... I get this whashed out image on my video recorder... although this is not a real-life situation, it's quite representative for problems i've been having with this camera. ...while the camera is producing this on the scope... this is line no. 4 of the white image above I mean, when I connected it to the scope I was hoping to see the waveform shifted upwards (as it's supposed to range from 0 to sth. about 1V, right? But
  11. I have a 1/3" color cam with SONY CXD1341R chip. Its somewhat larger type of pcb camera consisting of 2 42x42mm boards. What's interresting is that it has 4 holes where I could solder in a connector, and according to your CXD1343R datasheet there are SCK / SO / SI/ and XCS signals available on these pads. Do you think I can connect SCK to SCL and SI to SDA of a microcontroller (and select the CXD chip with XCS) and try to reprogram the camera? using I2C ? I've been having some problem with this camera, which although giving a detailed picture has been delivering too bright (washed out) vi
  12. I dont' have BWAV gear but some other camera, which suffered from switching p/s noise. I actually solved it with low drop lin reg but just would like to know the resistor trick so I have more options when I encounter similar thing again. Do you mean this is an inductor you connect in series on Vcc line? What is the inductor's rating?
  13. docphi, what kind of resistor is that (value, where to connect)? I've just looked over blackwidowav website and found nothing. Could you please provide some details?
  14. I've been just trying to work out a solution for the same problem (codable with fixed precision maths in Atmega) Could you provide a glimpse on how to do it (don't need a worldwide solution)?
  15. just my two cents - try increasing camera resolution (maybe kx-151 instead of 131), your brain will obviously get more data to process and to develop 3d vision - I don't think you'll have problems with aligning two cameras mounted on separate servos, from what I've experienced with my vision system and my brain after an accident some time ago, which messed up alignment of my eyes I can tell you human brain is pretty well adaptive and will easily compensate for slight misalignment of two images. Maybe it will require some training (like seing those stereograms that were the hit in late 90's)
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