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Attention: RC-CAM.com will be closing down August 2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This is being announced now (March 2021) so that everyone has time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.


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About Doofer

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    RC-Cam Mentor
  • Birthday 12/16/1963

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  • Location
    Nottingham, UK
  • Interests
    Gliders (especially slope), electric, heli, submarine, rockets, quadrocopters
  1. Feeling a bit paranoid, but has anyone else noticed that duck tape (usually grey, sometimes white, black, other colours) has changed in the last 18 months? Whether it was brand-name 'Duck Tape' or numerous lookalikes, it used to: 1. have clear fibre strengthening 2. would only occasionally 'lift' after putting in place 3. if you let the sticky side touch itself before placement, you had to throw it away, as the adhesion strength was almost as strong as the tape itself. All that has now changed. I have bought several different varieties over recent months, 'Duck
  2. I can always use my Oracle and a couple of Airwave RX's... Did you ever make a smaller version? Even stripped down to the board + servo sockets for connections, it's a fair footprint...
  3. Rats - thought I'd nailed it. With the FT951 (same manufacturer) Channel B has the hairy sync pulse, Channel A is clean - faulty Rx syndrome. But then back to Airwave transmitter, and both Channels have the noise on the picture, I'll probably see if a local supplier will let me have one on 'success or return'...
  4. I guess I was hoping that if it was a known problem, someone would suggest some component in these things that could be altered... Mind you, looking in detail at single shots on the scope, the sync pulse outputted from my FR632 contains bursts of something at a much higher frequency, totally absent with other receivers. I am wondering if it's just a faulty one; I get this even with a FT951 transmitter, which is from the same manufacturers as the FR632! Also, given that no-one else is moaning about this receiver, I'm inclined to think it may just be a faulty one.
  5. Trying a 10mW FPV Hobby Tx, the picture looks alright, although the sync pulse still looks a bit odd
  6. 5.8GHz seems to 'need' diversity less than 2.4GHz in terms of dropouts, but even so I thought I'd try the new FR632 diversity receiver for a local plus high gain arrangement. Bench tests seemed okay, but on fitting it into a real system I found picture roll on some screens, intermittant 'interference' across the middle of the screen on others. Swapping the part out for an Airwave module or a 5.8GHz single-input 'scanning' receiver gave a perfect picture, so I suspected a sync problem in the FR632. On the 'scope' the outputs are different (see attached) - FR632 - Airwave - Scanner.
  7. Thanks, yes, firmware 1.18 recommended by Rngevideo for PAL 'All problems sorted out now'etc. So I have to assume, with 1.18 now installed, this is as good as it gets...
  8. Okay, so not a subject folks can add to there. Mind you, now I'm using my Headplay goggles for FPV, I'm wondering if my eyes need upgrading Headplay 'should' be better than my (now getting quite old!) GCD 640x480 goggles: 1. Higher resolution (800x600) 2. Adjustable parameters (sharpness, saturation etc.) In practice so far, I'm not finding this to be the case. 3. The HeadPlay has a narrower 'window' for optimum eye position - move the unit just a little on your head and the image does out of focus, especially at the edges. Probably something about the depth of field. Not fu
  9. Hi there. Does anyone know how the Headplay goggles connect to the base box (aka 'Liberator'.... "Long live Blake!", in case there are any 1970's UK Sci-Fi fans out there)? I made life MUCH easier for myself by replacing my RVision control box and two short-ish cables - always in the way, connectors pulling out etc. - with 4m of stereo cable (+v, gnd & composite video), soldered at the goggle end. It seems the Headplay goggles might be more sophisticated than the composite IN displays of the Rvision. But 'The Liberator' is very big, and the cable pretty short. I asked Headplay, w
  10. Helix1, considering many online forums, this is a refreshingly practical one for people who make real things and try them out. Your big brother/best mate/esteemed colleague/whoever may well be bigger/brighter/right more often than Old Man Mike's, but - a word to the wise - a line about something you've built and tried out in the field is invariably of much more interest to this forum than multi-page lecture notes. And please note that no-one is the least bit interested in how credible you, or Old Man Mike, or anyone else is. We just want to know what you're up to and what does and doesn't w
  11. You didn't say what sort of helmet you're using. It seems the most 'suspicious' feature you report is the lack of audio signal in normal use - suggests to me that it's not working as intended. 'Ear bone' mics fit tightly in the ear and pick up from the skull, 'jaw bone' mics pic up from close contact with the jaw... but a 'top of head' bone (skull) mic is only going to work well if you're bald, or you move your hair out of the way of the transducer. Just sitting on top of your hair, getting good enough contact to get bone vibrations might be a big problem. Looking at that device, an
  12. Interesting - a reply from Xaircraft. They've clearly stepped-up customer services! "Stuart, XAircraft X500D adopted PPM asynchronous input. After installing receiver on X500D,connect to PC and poke the joystick.It can be checked out by seeing signal mast graph on PC software if signal lost in about 0.5 second.In that case, framerate can be tested whether it's lost. As for the slide on the flight, it may be caused by ESC or motor malfunction. It's advised to hold X500D onto the ground, throttle up what you need in the fly, after a while check out the four motors' temperature whether is th
  13. Status is that I can either have the 'comb' cut out my throttle every 3secs for long enough to make it fall about 20ft each time, or I can adjust the sequence of channels to get brief cuts in throttle a couple of times a second. Either way, not really enough consistency to judge whether the FY20A is doing anything... unless I conclude it's deliberately doing all this, in which case I'm far better off without it! I'm awaiting a response to an inquiry about asynchronous firmware from Xaircraft (who made the X500D), and a similar query on the discussion board at RC Groups that Adrian at Fyetech s
  14. It's easy to imagine a situation in which, given different damping time-constants, the FY20A and the Gaui board constantly fight each other. Without access to these parameters, might seem hopeless until you remember the parameters are trying to model the real physical world (masses oscillating around notional CofGs), so perhaps experimenting with a few weights on the arms, to alter these, might have an effect? (SO frustrating to not be able to take part in these experiments!)
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