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Attention: RC-CAM.com will permanently shut down on August-08-2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This was announced several months ago (March 2021) to allow our members ample time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.


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dzbum's Achievements

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  1. Thanks for the info. I will go with the simple Y harness.
  2. I have a Geko 201 with a serial connection to a RCAP2. I want to split the serial connection into two. One going to the RCAP, and the other to a modem on the audio channel of my video TX. This will feed GPS data down to my ground station to be displayed on Google Earth. What type of decoupling between the RCAP and the Modem do I need to add to do this?
  3. What applications are people using to display this data in a map format. I know Google Earth Plus will do this, but are there any better/other options that anyone can recommend?
  4. Jeff, Looks good. I would also be interested once the Beta testing is done. Please put me on the list. I would take the kit.
  5. Kilrah, totally agree. I have several 7.4V LiPo's. I think I am going stick with them and add a DC-DC boosting regulator to bring it up to 12v for the Video. Everything else will run off 6v with 3v for the GPS. I use the Easy star either with 1 x 3000mah or 2s x 2100mah packs. I can divide these two packs and use one for video. Anyone have any do's and don'ts when using DC-DC regulators with LiPo's?
  6. Thomas, the plane that I am going to use is not electric powered, however I do have an eclectic plane that I would like to use just the video TX and Camera with that runs on 7.4v LiPo's. I had intended on using the same LiPo's to run all my gear when they are in my gas powered plane. I am starting to think that I should just but another 11.1v LiPo to run the video and use Vregs step down to the voltages I need for the rest. That is my main question, should I power everything from one 7.4v battery and step up to 12v for the TX or run the video off a 11.1v LiPo and use a second power source for the GPS and RCAP for safety?
  7. That is my question. I want to have a dedicated battery for the video TX as its the highest current device. Should I also use that for nav?
  8. As a frequent lurker of this forum I find I can usually find the answers to my questions without asking them, but I finally have one to ask. I have just put together my first “proper” UAV / FPV setup. I have ground tested all the components separately and they all work well. I am intending on putting all of the equipment into a trainer I have kicking around. The TX and Camera will be mounted wing with the Nav equipment in a similar place on the opposite wing. My question is around power for all the various voltages required. Equipment list. 1w 2.4GHz Lawnmate TX (12v) 420 line Board Camera (12v) Gecko 201 (3v) RCAP2 (6v- 12v?) FMA Copilot FS8 (standard RX 4.8v-6v) I intend on adding. GPS Overlay Board Video source switch Digital still camera RS232 Modem on the Audio channel sending NMEA string back to the ground station. This is probably going to be in a bigger airframe. I already have 7.4v LiPo’s that I use in my son’s Easystar, I had intended on using them with a DC-DC boosting regulator to give me the needed 12v for the Video system. (Shown here in MR-RC Cam’s project http://www.rc-cam.com/dc-dc.htm ) This would also allow me to also just use the video system to the Easystar if I needed to. I want to keep the power source for the Video (given that it is the highest current draw) isolated from the RCAP and receiver. I also intend on running my Gecko from an external power source, (See this thread http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread....light=gecko+201 ) for which I will also need 3v regulator. I think for simplicity I will attach this vreg to the RCAP for ease of feeding the Gecko from the same connector as the RS232. I am currently leaning towards buying a 11.1V LiPo and use it to power the Video without a regulator. (This is within tolerance as far as am aware) And using a 7.4V LiPo with a 3V vreg for the RCAP and the Geko. Does anyone have any advise on this?
  9. Looks great, how much did you add to the wing and what type of foam did you use ?
  10. Mac, Everything I have ever seen about operating temperature of LiPo's state 32f to 140f as a discharging temp. (usually a little cooler max for charging) The easy star is a good insulator which is more often than not an issue for cooling as the discharging packs keep the electronics bay warm. I would try it above 32f and see how much warmer it is inside once you land, that way you can figure out a realistic minimum. Not too much less than freezing though. (If only for the sake of your fingers )
  11. I know this is hard to test if you are only seeing a small glitch (amplified) on the pan servo, but are you sure that its not interference from the motor and it happens with no video TX switched on? Separation is the best fix, but certain Rx's are much better. Airtronics have a good noise rejection I know. You can use a Notch filter and preamp on the TX if its a real issue though.
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