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Attention: RC-CAM.com will be closing down August 2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This is being announced now (March 2021) so that everyone has time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.


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About eickst

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  1. You would need a uC with the tilt switches, but it would be cheaper than the FMA. Most rollerball type tilt switches cost less than $1.
  2. Then you need a wing leveling system not a rate gyro. You can do that with the FMA copilot or with a full IMU. The FMA route is much much cheaper and much much simpler. Maybe you can make your own cheap system using tilt switches or something.
  3. If you already have a 2.4 radio, then look at 900mhz. I have 1.3 gear but if I had it to do over again I would go with 900 due to availability of everything else to go along with it, antennas, receivers, etc. I do not know the frequency laws in Australia, however. I personally would not look at 5.8ghz unless I was considering short range fpv like less than half a kilometer.
  4. The ones I have seen advertising 10km range are operating on the 268 and 394mhz frequencies. The base will xmit on one and receive on the other, and the handset will do vice versa. Plus those are transmitting at half to one watt output power.
  5. I've used switching regulators with mixed results. Sometimes I've gotten interference and sometimes I haven't lol. You could always encase the regulator and keep it as far away as possible.
  6. The pilot? j/k I don't know of a perfect system. I'm not sure how head tracking would help here? Maybe you could explain what you have actually tried so far in a little more detail. I think most people use the FMA copilot for stabilizing. There are products out there that will hold the wings completely level but I wouldn't call them relatively cheap. Relatively cheap compared to a full size plane? Yes. Relatively cheap compared to the FMA copilot? No.
  7. Pretty ambitious project. For the control of everything, if you aren't looking for an RC system, look into the xbee modules. I believe that sparkfun sells them with analog inputs, so you could use pots directly into the xbee. You'd have to double check, it's been a while since I looked at them. You could send serial commands directly into the module and have them come out of the mobile unit and go directly to the camera. For speed controls of three motors, what kind of motors are they? You may just want to use actual speed controllers and just send them the appropriate signal rather th
  8. Looking at the datasheet it can only supply 346ma when going from a 13v input to a 12v output. If that's all you need then it should work.
  9. I use a TI PT5041 to step up to 12v. But if you have 12.5 in your car you can use a regulator and avoid stepping it down and stepping it up again. Use a step-up/down converter ie buck-boost and you won't need to convert it twice. http://www.maxim-ic.com/appnotes.cfm/an_pk/1810 The circuit is for 9V but has an implementation for 12V output.
  10. Actually what I do now is use a 2S lipo and step it up to 12v. I know this seems weird, and the step up converter has about 85-88% efficiency, but I did this because of the amount of 2S lipo batteries that I have and have no use for other than that. Plus I don't have to lug a SLA 17Ah battery around anymore. A 2S 900mah battery is enough to power the receiver for 5 or 6 hours, even with the loss from step-up. I use the same method on my camera and transmitter as they are 12v and I have a plethora of 2S lipos.
  11. I've done it (from a jumpstarter with a cigarette lighter socket) on their 1.3ghz receiver. I use a regulated supply typically, but I have used lead acid batteries in the past with no problems
  12. That's actually pretty clever........the more I think of it it's pretty darn freaking clever! The only downside is that we're still missing the the mixing functions of the TX. It's really a downside for me because I have some elevon planes and headtracking is out of the question with any Spektrum radio without severe hacking (and reduction in features). Spektrum should wise up and get user selectable trainer channels.
  13. I don't have a big enough place indoors to fly it
  14. I agree, the misumi cameras are kind of weird. Some of them take 12V only and some will accept ranges like 9-12v or even 5-12v (those that have onboard regulators most likely). Check the camera specs, it may require 12v only.
  15. Do the glasses power on but with no video or do they not power on at all? Without knowing how the device works internally I can't give any reason why it wouldn't turn on without a USB signal connection. Does it work if you connect it to USB on a laptop and then connect the composite to VGA adapter into the VGA input of the goggles?
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