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Mr.RC-Cam

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About Mr.RC-Cam

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    RC-Cam Mentor

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    http://www.rc-cam.com
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    USA
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    R/C, FPV, Embedded Programming, Electronic Design.

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  1. That's a very "lightweight" LC filter. It looks similar to those sold for FPV drone installations (for video camera and vTx). Don't use it on the 5V to the servos (it isn't designed for the peak servo loads). No promises, but it might help to use it only on the power leg that serves the lower current video devices, such as the monitor and vRx. Interesting find. Especially if you are connecting the wall adapter to the exact same place (and same way) that was connected to the 3S LiPO. I would expect a good performing 3S LiPO to work better than some randomly chosen wall adapter. FWIW, I'
  2. Since the Hitec ESC's 5V LDO works well then that seems to confirm your suspicion that the issue is related to the UBEC's 5V switcher. Have you tried a different ESC/BEC that has a switcher VReg? Have you tried a standalone BEC switcher VReg rather than an ESC/BEC combo? Have you investigated the wiring layout for ground loops? Assuming the UBEC can be salvaged, I have some questions about your LC filter. 1. What L and C values did you use? Please post a photo of the LC you built so I can see the physical size of the components. 2. Where did you install the filter? On the 3S
  3. Seems possible to me. For example, add a second pot and use a switch to choose between two offset pots (High/Low range). If you don't mind writing some code, use a relay or digital pot. This would allow it to be a menu choice or auto-selected depending on weld current. That might work; Depends on the behavior of your welder's over-temp circuitry. My welder's PWM controller chip (SG3525A) has a hardware shutdown pin. So if your welder uses this chip (or something similar) then you could control weld current (on/off) via this pin. The SG3525A data sheet describes operati
  4. The video shows the receiver pinout at the 3:00 minute mark. What it shows matches the photo you posted. The bottom row is somewhat of a mystery (the manual calls it a 5V power output).
  5. The basics on installing a different receiver are shown in this guy's video:
  6. The A1 voltage should be 2.0V to 2.1V with no RF signal. If you measure 0V then there is definitely something wrong with the AD8318 sensor (or the wiring to it). This voltage represents the measured RF power and should range from approx 0.6V (~0dBm) to 2.0V (~ -65dBm). My first thoughts: The 0V reading could mean that A1 is shorted to ground. Or a power supply issue related to the AD8318 board.
  7. The Vortex's R/C receiver port expects PPM (CPPM). I believe that some Radiolink Rx's have a "PPM" output, so try to use it if yours is equipped with this. But if your R/C Rx only has S.Bus then the special protocol convertor cable can be used to convert S.Bus to the PPM signal required by the Vortex. FWIW, I don't own a Vortex 285 or Radiolink. So check with the user manuals if you need more thorough advice.
  8. Three years later ... On July-23-2020 the FCC concluded their investigation by issuing a fine against Hobby King's marketing of illegal FPV (drone) transmitters. $2.8 million USD! http://www.arrl.org/news/fcc-fines-hobbyking-nearly-3-million-for-marketing-unauthorized-drone-transmitters https://docs.fcc.gov/public/attachments/FCC-20-101A1.pdf
  9. On July-13-2020 the project was presented on the hackaday.com blog site. So even bubble blowing bears get their fifteen minutes of fame. https://hackaday.com/2020/07/13/bubbles-the-people-pleasing-pandemic-panda/
  10. It's time to wrap up this project's blog. I hope you enjoyed reading about my pandemic inspired panda. Epilogue: Joyful little distractions, like blowing bubbles, are a great way to shine a bit of light into our lives. Stay safe!
  11. There's a handful of electronic modules that do all the magic. Here's a photo from an early bench test. The brains behind this talking bear is a ESP32 WiFi enabled microcontroller. It's mounted on a piece of Perfboard with two MOSFET modules (for driving the blower and wand motor). A high current relay is used to provide DC power to the 30W audio amplifier. Everything is mounted inside 3D printed enclosures. The pole mounted pushbuttons send an encoded signal to the Bear's 433MHz receiver. The receiver was originally mounted on the ESP32's perfboard, but EMI/RFI
  12. Let's not forget that the Panda Bear is an important part of the entertainment. It's no secrete that most kids (and adults) like teddy bears. The bear is a commercially made aluminum sign about 18" wide by 24" high. Despite its mostly two-dimensional construction, it can talk and has lips that articulate while speaking. Here's a sample of what the bear can say: The child-like voice originated from a Gund Peek-A-Boo Teddy Bear. It's a stuffed plush toy that was purchased from Amazon, but other retailers sell it too. I highly recommend this animated toy to all the little peop
  13. Let's step back for a moment and talk about bubble production. Normally a person blows into a soap dipped wand while observing the bubble form. Air volume / lip position is adjusted in real-time to create the perfect bubble. A classic closed loop system. My bubble maker runs open loop. Even so, it does a remarkably good job at blowing bubbles. As mentioned, the blower and wand speed are programmable, which helps out a lot. Admittedly, some success is probably a bit of magic and luck. The very first test used a 12V drone battery to run the blower and a 2.4V NiMH battery for the wand c
  14. Making bubbles is a simple task that is just a bit of soap and air. Or so I thought. It turns out that bubble blowing success is affected by several variables: For example, the contour of the wand, air management, and the soap solution's formula all contribute to the bubble maker's performance. There are twelve wands that are arranged in a carousel configuration. It's just a slow rotating wheel. All the parts are 3D printed in ABS plastic. Bright garish colors are ideal for this kind of project. The bubble making mechanism uses a low RPM Gear Motor
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