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Attention: RC-CAM.com will be closing down August 2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This was announced several months ago (March 2021) to allow our members ample time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.



Mr.RC-Cam

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    R/C, FPV, Embedded Programming, Electronic Design.

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  1. New members can upload 350kb sized attachments in each posting. Multiple replies can be used if the total file size exceeds the 350kb per post limit.
  2. All the details (including related schematics) from my repair experience are posted in this thread. So read through it for information on how I fixed my scope's bad power supply.
  3. You could indeed adapt the Mustang cluster project for use in a older vehicle that does not have Can-Bus. Of course this would require hardware and software changes. I don't plan to do it. But this effort could be handled by another developer that has a lot of free time.
  4. That's a very "lightweight" LC filter. It looks similar to those sold for FPV drone installations (for video camera and vTx). Don't use it on the 5V to the servos (it isn't designed for the peak servo loads). No promises, but it might help to use it only on the power leg that serves the lower current video devices, such as the monitor and vRx. Interesting find. Especially if you are connecting the wall adapter to the exact same place (and same way) that was connected to the 3S LiPO. I would expect a good performing 3S LiPO to work better than some randomly chosen wall adapter. FWIW, I've seen ground station noise troubles when using a low capacity LiPO or if it was old and tired (high ESR). During the testing I suggest using a good high capacity 3S with a full charge on it. This might help the Switching BEC's transient response characteristics. I suspect you need better LC filtering on both input and outputs of the UBEC. And maybe revised power/ground routing. I recommend you post a detailed sketch and a photo that gives me an idea how everything is currently connected.
  5. Since the Hitec ESC's 5V LDO works well then that seems to confirm your suspicion that the issue is related to the UBEC's 5V switcher. Have you tried a different ESC/BEC that has a switcher VReg? Have you tried a standalone BEC switcher VReg rather than an ESC/BEC combo? Have you investigated the wiring layout for ground loops? Assuming the UBEC can be salvaged, I have some questions about your LC filter. 1. What L and C values did you use? Please post a photo of the LC you built so I can see the physical size of the components. 2. Where did you install the filter? On the 3S input or 5V output? 3. Was the LC filter's inductor in series with the positive rail or ground rail?
  6. Seems possible to me. For example, add a second pot and use a switch to choose between two offset pots (High/Low range). If you don't mind writing some code, use a relay or digital pot. This would allow it to be a menu choice or auto-selected depending on weld current. That might work; Depends on the behavior of your welder's over-temp circuitry. My welder's PWM controller chip (SG3525A) has a hardware shutdown pin. So if your welder uses this chip (or something similar) then you could control weld current (on/off) via this pin. The SG3525A data sheet describes operation of the shutdown pin. Agreed!
  7. The video shows the receiver pinout at the 3:00 minute mark. What it shows matches the photo you posted. The bottom row is somewhat of a mystery (the manual calls it a 5V power output).
  8. The basics on installing a different receiver are shown in this guy's video:
  9. The A1 voltage should be 2.0V to 2.1V with no RF signal. If you measure 0V then there is definitely something wrong with the AD8318 sensor (or the wiring to it). This voltage represents the measured RF power and should range from approx 0.6V (~0dBm) to 2.0V (~ -65dBm). My first thoughts: The 0V reading could mean that A1 is shorted to ground. Or a power supply issue related to the AD8318 board.
  10. The Vortex's R/C receiver port expects PPM (CPPM). I believe that some Radiolink Rx's have a "PPM" output, so try to use it if yours is equipped with this. But if your R/C Rx only has S.Bus then the special protocol convertor cable can be used to convert S.Bus to the PPM signal required by the Vortex. FWIW, I don't own a Vortex 285 or Radiolink. So check with the user manuals if you need more thorough advice.
  11. Three years later ... On July-23-2020 the FCC concluded their investigation by issuing a fine against Hobby King's marketing of illegal FPV (drone) transmitters. $2.8 million USD! http://www.arrl.org/news/fcc-fines-hobbyking-nearly-3-million-for-marketing-unauthorized-drone-transmitters https://docs.fcc.gov/public/attachments/FCC-20-101A1.pdf
  12. On July-13-2020 the project was presented on the hackaday.com blog site. So even bubble blowing bears get their fifteen minutes of fame. https://hackaday.com/2020/07/13/bubbles-the-people-pleasing-pandemic-panda/
  13. It's time to wrap up this project's blog. I hope you enjoyed reading about my pandemic inspired panda. Epilogue: Joyful little distractions, like blowing bubbles, are a great way to shine a bit of light into our lives. Stay safe!
  14. There's a handful of electronic modules that do all the magic. Here's a photo from an early bench test. The brains behind this talking bear is a ESP32 WiFi enabled microcontroller. It's mounted on a piece of Perfboard with two MOSFET modules (for driving the blower and wand motor). A high current relay is used to provide DC power to the 30W audio amplifier. Everything is mounted inside 3D printed enclosures. The pole mounted pushbuttons send an encoded signal to the Bear's 433MHz receiver. The receiver was originally mounted on the ESP32's perfboard, but EMI/RFI issues reduced the wireless button's range. So the receiver was moved further away. The photo below shows the placement of the ESP32 and receiver. The off-the-shelf Audio Amplifier module uses a TDA7297 power amp IC. It provides two 15 watt channels and each drives its own speaker. Because contact with soapy bubbles was expected, marine rated speakers were used instead of common car speakers. ESP32 projects that involve sound playback typically have some sort of audio hardware such as a MP3 module. But to simplify construction the audio generation in this design is software based. All thanks to the ESP32's onboard DAC and the open source XT_DAC_Audio library published by xtronical.com. A mains powered 12VDC / 2A switcher supply (wall wart) runs everything, including the WiFi camera. Battery operation is supported too in case the Bear needs to play in the wild. Here's the full schematic: Schematic.pdf
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