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About Mr.RC-Cam

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    RC-Cam Mentor

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    R/C, FPV, Embedded Programming, Electronic Design.

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  1. The video shows the receiver pinout at the 3:00 minute mark. What it shows matches the photo you posted. The bottom row is somewhat of a mystery (the manual calls it a 5V power output).
  2. The basics on installing a different receiver are shown in this guy's video:
  3. The A1 voltage should be 2.0V to 2.1V with no RF signal. If you measure 0V then there is definitely something wrong with the AD8318 sensor (or the wiring to it). This voltage represents the measured RF power and should range from approx 0.6V (~0dBm) to 2.0V (~ -65dBm). My first thoughts: The 0V reading could mean that A1 is shorted to ground. Or a power supply issue related to the AD8318 board.
  4. The Vortex's R/C receiver port expects PPM (CPPM). I believe that some Radiolink Rx's have a "PPM" output, so try to use it if yours is equipped with this. But if your R/C Rx only has S.Bus then the special protocol convertor cable can be used to convert S.Bus to the PPM signal required by the Vortex. FWIW, I don't own a Vortex 285 or Radiolink. So check with the user manuals if you need more thorough advice.
  5. Three years later ... On July-23-2020 the FCC concluded their investigation by issuing a fine against Hobby King's marketing of illegal FPV (drone) transmitters. $2.8 million USD! http://www.arrl.org/news/fcc-fines-hobbyking-nearly-3-million-for-marketing-unauthorized-drone-transmitters https://docs.fcc.gov/public/attachments/FCC-20-101A1.pdf
  6. On July-13-2020 the project was presented on the hackaday.com blog site. So even bubble blowing bears get their fifteen minutes of fame. https://hackaday.com/2020/07/13/bubbles-the-people-pleasing-pandemic-panda/
  7. It's time to wrap up this project's blog. I hope you enjoyed reading about my pandemic inspired panda. Epilogue: Joyful little distractions, like blowing bubbles, are a great way to shine a bit of light into our lives. Stay safe!
  8. There's a handful of electronic modules that do all the magic. Here's a photo from an early bench test. The brains behind this talking bear is a ESP32 WiFi enabled microcontroller. It's mounted on a piece of Perfboard with two MOSFET modules (for driving the blower and wand motor). A high current relay is used to provide DC power to the 30W audio amplifier. Everything is mounted inside 3D printed enclosures. The pole mounted pushbuttons send an encoded signal to the Bear's 433MHz receiver. The receiver was originally mounted on the ESP32's perfboard, but EMI/RFI
  9. Let's not forget that the Panda Bear is an important part of the entertainment. It's no secrete that most kids (and adults) like teddy bears. The bear is a commercially made aluminum sign about 18" wide by 24" high. Despite its mostly two-dimensional construction, it can talk and has lips that articulate while speaking. Here's a sample of what the bear can say: The child-like voice originated from a Gund Peek-A-Boo Teddy Bear. It's a stuffed plush toy that was purchased from Amazon, but other retailers sell it too. I highly recommend this animated toy to all the little peop
  10. Let's step back for a moment and talk about bubble production. Normally a person blows into a soap dipped wand while observing the bubble form. Air volume / lip position is adjusted in real-time to create the perfect bubble. A classic closed loop system. My bubble maker runs open loop. Even so, it does a remarkably good job at blowing bubbles. As mentioned, the blower and wand speed are programmable, which helps out a lot. Admittedly, some success is probably a bit of magic and luck. The very first test used a 12V drone battery to run the blower and a 2.4V NiMH battery for the wand c
  11. Making bubbles is a simple task that is just a bit of soap and air. Or so I thought. It turns out that bubble blowing success is affected by several variables: For example, the contour of the wand, air management, and the soap solution's formula all contribute to the bubble maker's performance. There are twelve wands that are arranged in a carousel configuration. It's just a slow rotating wheel. All the parts are 3D printed in ABS plastic. Bright garish colors are ideal for this kind of project. The bubble making mechanism uses a low RPM Gear Motor
  12. The Bear and his bubble machine are built into a 45-inch high wooden frame that's fitted into an upstairs window. There's some 3D printed hardware that holds it in place. Setting it up in the window is an effortless installation. Down at street level there are two arcade gaming buttons that send a radio signal to trigger the Bear into action. The bright red button on the tray is large enough for elbow presses. A second electrically tethered button is for foot activation (hands-free for Covid protection). It does not matter which button is used, they both wake-up
  13. Late February 2020, when the COVID-19 pandemic shizz was beginning to hit the fan, I noticed more families spending time outdoors. The sidewalks are usually empty around here, but slowly my quiet neighborhood began to come to life. Soon hoards of walking/biking moms, dads, and their kids began traveling by. This unusual migration of neighbors was a side effect of the Coronavirus lockdown. For fun, many nearby homeowners put teddy bears in their windows to entertain these nomadic visitors. It's a game; count the most stuffed bears and you're the winner. The windowed teddy bears are no
  14. Thanks for the positive feedback on the Oracle Diversity controller. Many users find that about a wavelength in separation (9-inches) is fine for typical 1280MHz RF spatial diversity. But sometimes 3X wavelength (or larger odd numbered distances) is better. There are a lot of opinions on it, so do some experimentation to find the best distance for your installation. BTW, I'm not an exact antenna placement type of diversity user. I just put one antenna (and its receiver) in a convenient spot, and put another a few feet away, and connect them to the Oracle (or Diversity Demon) controll
  15. 1. The Arduino's ADC performance, including accuracy of Vref, is involved too. So even if your power sensor is a perfect match to the one I used, the measurements may be different. The default AD8317 cal values in the Arduino code were determined from my build. The default AD8318 cal values are estimations. In either case, calibration is required if measurement accuracy is important. 2. The sensor detects RF power by measuring RF current. It cannot determine frequency. For budget friendly frequency measurements I suggest a low cost SDR dongle. For example: https://www.rc-cam.co
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