Mr.RC-Cam

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About Mr.RC-Cam

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    RC-Cam Mentor

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    http://www.rc-cam.com
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    USA
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    R/C, FPV, Embedded Programming, Electronic Design.

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  1. I think that some 555 timer based servo signal emulators have unusual repetition rates that could affect PanCam's operation. For correct operation the servo pulse signal should be a standard 50Hz repetition rate (20mS period).
  2. Direct connection to a POT is not supported. A servo tester can be used instead of a R/C system.
  3. I don't have that vRx to measure. In a traditional design the video output would be AC coupled using a large value series capacitor, so measured resistance would be infinite. But some newer vRx designs have an alternate video drive circuit that eliminated this big cap to save space, so some measured resistance is possible. Your meter is warning you to change the battery. Be aware that readings may be inaccurate if the battery is low. Your link is for SAW filter replacement. It was also discussed on this forum many hears ago: https://www.rc-cam.com/forum/index.php?/topic/3276-wireless-av-receiver-saw-filters-whats-this-all-about/#comment-23168
  4. You are making a mistake. Do not put a resistor on the output of the vRx to reduce the measured resistance to 75 ohms. A video output circuit is designed to drive a 75 ohm terminated monitor. Your added resistor will disturb this circuitry by "double terminating" it. I think you are confusing this issue with Lawmate's poor design found on some of their vTxs' video inputs. But this issue has nothing to do with their vRxs'.
  5. You would re-calibrate the video level with the resistor installed. Here is an example on using a O-Scope to set the video signal level: https://www.rc-cam.com/lawmate.htm
  6. Sorry, but the attached PC Board is needed. It does two major things: (1) The board's microcontroller sends a serial data message (~32-bits) to the Comtech module that configures it to the desired channel frequency. (2) The Comtech's RF signal output is a raw baseband signal. This signal needs to be further processed before it can drive the composite video display. The attached board does the required magic.
  7. Unfortunately that will adversely reduce the amplitude of the video signal. If the vTx has a video level POT, and you have the proper test equipment, then you can re-calibrate the video level to the industry standard 1Vpp amplitude. Traditionally you would need a o-scope to check and calibrate the video level. But now there is an alternative -- This cool DiY Project was specifically created to check FPV video levels: https://www.rc-cam.com/forum/index.php?/topic/4126-diy-fpv-video-calibration-tool-low-cost/
  8. The diagonal line noise's intensity will vary, depending on the luck of the user. Plus, the higher the battery voltage, the worse it gets. So your 4S LiPO is likely the biggest contributor to your problem. Over at rcgroups there is a lot of debate about how to solve the faint diagonal lines. Since the noise is often reduced with lowering battery voltage, most of the fixes involved doing that. Here is one solution someone proposed: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=33851627&postcount=2512 I recommend that you try a 2S LiPO before making any mods. If you still see noise then also add a LC filter (330uH + 470uF) to the power input of the RX5808 Pro. Beyond that I don't have any other suggestions.
  9. Here is the 3D printer STL file for the MS5611 (GY-63) Module: GY63_case1.stl
  10. Yes, I can see the Pin-1 index dimple at the lower left corner.
  11. If it came from Mouser the THS7314 should be authentic. But with the missing pin-1 index something odd is going on. Are you sure this tiny mark is really missing?
  12. Bottom left would be my guess too. FWIW, an authentic THS7314 will have the Pin-1 index mark as shown on the data sheet. Sounds like you received a unauthorized (fake) part. If it doesn't work then be prepared to purchase another one from a trusted mainstream supplier (e.g. Digi-Key).
  13. The DIP switch is also available in a push button (or thumb wheel) form factor like this: One of these would replace the entire triple wide DIP switch. A fully electronic Up/Down button method will require some digital electronic design skills. That is to say, you will need to design a circuit that emulates the DIP switch's binary code. Two things come to mind that could do the job, depending on your design experience. [1] Arduino + Your custom code: https://store.arduino.cc/usa/arduino-mini-05 [2] CD40193 CMOS Binary Counter IC: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/cd40193b.pdf I don't have any schematics or code to offer, so you're on your own.
  14. If you mean you want to use FatShark's external vRx modules and do channel selection manually, then you can do it with a triple wide DIP switch like this: ebay choices: https://goo.gl/GijFH7 The 3-bit binary code is used to change FatShark's seven channels that are available in each RF band. On modules with more than seven channels, the RF Band changes are handled by the existing double wide DIP switch that is mounted on the Fatshark module. Connect one side (3 pins) of the triple wide DIP switch to ground. The other side goes to the module's CS3 {Channel Select bit 2}, CS2 {Channel Select bit 1}, and CS1 {Channel Select bit 0} pins (one switch per pin). The CSx pins are clearly labeled on the FatShark Module. Each switch grounds (logic 0) the CSx pin when it is turned ON. For example, CH1 is 0-0-0 (ON-ON-ON), CH7 is 1-1-0 (OFF-OFF-ON).
  15. I have merged your duplicate topic into this one.