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Mr.RC-Cam

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About Mr.RC-Cam

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    RC-Cam Mentor

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    http://www.rc-cam.com
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    USA
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    R/C, FPV, Embedded Programming, Electronic Design.

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  1. The A1 voltage is from the output of the RF power board (AD8318 chip). It should be close to 2.0V when nothing is connected to its RF input. Your 1.69V A1 voltage might be because it has a different chip, such as a AD8317 or some other variant. So I suggest you confirm that the RF power board has a AD8318 chip on it (read the part number printed on the chip). Troubleshooting tips: Recheck the RF Power board's wiring to the Arduino. Confirm the Arduino board's A1 resistor is correct value and installed at the proper location. Confirm the RF Power board's 100pF cap is correct value and installed at the proper location. Clean off flux. Measure the 3S battery under load and confirm it is 11-14V. Measure the supply voltage at the RF Power board (at VCC & GND pads) and confirm it is 11-14V.
  2. Thanks for the feedback. I agree PLA would be a poor choice for this application. It's biodegradable (corn starch) and may become unstable over time. My adapters were printed with ABS plastic. It is OK to use in this application. Please feel free to edit your post to make your comments more clear.
  3. I don't have any experience with it. The 3GHz max rating means it is not a good choice for your 5.8GHz vTx.
  4. The calibration instructions shown for 900MHz are also used to calibrate the other RF bands.
  5. The Overload warning is not normal with a 30dB attenuator on a 5.8GHz / 25mW vTx. I would suspect battery voltage issues; Try a 3S or regulated 12V adapter (>1A rating). Some more troubleshooting suggestions: Confirm correct value (remove and measure) of the 470 ohm resistor on Arduino Pin A1. Confirm it is installed on the correct pins. Check the voltage on Arduino pin A1. It should be approx 2.1V without a RF signal (remove vTx). Recheck the installation of the 100pF cap that you added to the AD8318. Reconfirm that the meter is set for the correct RF band and attenuation dB. Maybe your vTx is putting out more RF power than expected. If it has programmable RF power then change to lowest setting. Next, try a different vTx.
  6. Thanks for reporting this. I added a note about the LCD bias adjustment in the flashing/startup instructions.
  7. Marking appears to be S10BFC. Repair information and replacement part data is found here: http://forum.rcdesign.ru/blogs/139882/blog21678.html The link above may have info on it.
  8. The popular diversity vRx modules have a design issue that results in incorrect video levels (low amplitude). So maybe the new OSD is also contributing to this issue and the combination results in a video level that is incompatible with the goggles. Just a best-guess; Without an o-scope measurement it is difficult to know what the real issue is. This DiY tool will help you check for incorrect video levels: https://www.rc-cam.com/forum/index.php?/topic/4126-diy-fpv-video-calibration-tool-low-cost/
  9. Thanks for stopping by. Hopefully there is a happy ending to your 2246 repair efforts.
  10. That sounds unusual. I would expect that even with a dead battery your scope would still be able to finish the self cal test. But I don't know for sure. Your scope is a different animal because you have the 2245 and mine is a 2245A. Regardless, my best advice is to start by confirming the power supply voltages are correct.
  11. Announcements and motor rev's are pre-recorded wave files stored on a SD card. The Audio Player is controlled by the Arduino. Details: https://github.com/thomastech/CAN2Cluster/tree/master/WaveFiles
  12. The arduino code is available here (Aug-08-2017 post): https://www.rc-cam.com/forum/index.php?/topic/4139-diy-rf-power-vswr-meter-low-cost/&do=findComment&comment=29002
  13. If you look through the HeadPlay HD Goggle Upgrade discussion you will see a photo of a SMT board created by a forum member. Maybe the photo will give you some inspiration.
  14. The most common choice is to use the Boscam RX5808 module. It is very low cost and widely available. There have been reports that the RX5880 has slightly better performance. However I don't believe that the bare RX5880 module is readily available. If you can't find a supplier then the workaround would be to purchase a FR632 and unsolder the modules in it. Not sure if this is worth the effort, that decision is up to you.
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