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Mr.RC-Cam

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About Mr.RC-Cam

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    RC-Cam Mentor

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    http://www.rc-cam.com
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  • Location
    USA
  • Interests
    R/C, FPV, Embedded Programming, Electronic Design.

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  1. I don't have any experience with it. The 3GHz max rating means it is not a good choice for your 5.8GHz vTx.
  2. The calibration instructions shown for 900MHz are also used to calibrate the other RF bands.
  3. The Overload warning is not normal with a 30dB attenuator on a 5.8GHz / 25mW vTx. I would suspect battery voltage issues; Try a 3S or regulated 12V adapter (>1A rating). Some more troubleshooting suggestions: Confirm correct value (remove and measure) of the 470 ohm resistor on Arduino Pin A1. Confirm it is installed on the correct pins. Check the voltage on Arduino pin A1. It should be approx 2.1V without a RF signal (remove vTx). Recheck the installation of the 100pF cap that you added to the AD8318. Reconfirm that the meter is set for the correct RF band and attenuation dB. Maybe your vTx is putting out more RF power than expected. If it has programmable RF power then change to lowest setting. Next, try a different vTx.
  4. Thanks for reporting this. I added a note about the LCD bias adjustment in the flashing/startup instructions.
  5. Marking appears to be S10BFC. Repair information and replacement part data is found here: http://forum.rcdesign.ru/blogs/139882/blog21678.html The link above may have info on it.
  6. The popular diversity vRx modules have a design issue that results in incorrect video levels (low amplitude). So maybe the new OSD is also contributing to this issue and the combination results in a video level that is incompatible with the goggles. Just a best-guess; Without an o-scope measurement it is difficult to know what the real issue is. This DiY tool will help you check for incorrect video levels: https://www.rc-cam.com/forum/index.php?/topic/4126-diy-fpv-video-calibration-tool-low-cost/
  7. Thanks for stopping by. Hopefully there is a happy ending to your 2246 repair efforts.
  8. That sounds unusual. I would expect that even with a dead battery your scope would still be able to finish the self cal test. But I don't know for sure. Your scope is a different animal because you have the 2245 and mine is a 2245A. Regardless, my best advice is to start by confirming the power supply voltages are correct.
  9. Announcements and motor rev's are pre-recorded wave files stored on a SD card. The Audio Player is controlled by the Arduino. Details: https://github.com/thomastech/CAN2Cluster/tree/master/WaveFiles
  10. The arduino code is available here (Aug-08-2017 post): https://www.rc-cam.com/forum/index.php?/topic/4139-diy-rf-power-vswr-meter-low-cost/&do=findComment&comment=29002
  11. If you look through the HeadPlay HD Goggle Upgrade discussion you will see a photo of a SMT board created by a forum member. Maybe the photo will give you some inspiration.
  12. The most common choice is to use the Boscam RX5808 module. It is very low cost and widely available. There have been reports that the RX5880 has slightly better performance. However I don't believe that the bare RX5880 module is readily available. If you can't find a supplier then the workaround would be to purchase a FR632 and unsolder the modules in it. Not sure if this is worth the effort, that decision is up to you.
  13. They are not open source hobby projects. Instead, they are proprietary designs. So the manufacturer does not publish the schematic. This is suppose to prevent the competition from cheating by cloning their work, but rarely stops the problem. A determined person can create the schematic by reverse-engineering the device. It's a lot of work to do that accurately. A lot of cloned products are bad copies.
  14. I cannot offer any specific advice on changing the video level of the FS or IRC module. I would need the video circuit schematic before offering a solution.
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