Jump to content

Attention: RC-CAM.com will permanently shut down on August-08-2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This was announced several months ago (March 2021) to allow our members ample time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.


Trusted Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About skola28

  • Birthday 10/20/1981

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
    Cedar Rapids, IA, USA
  • Interests
    Aviation, Space, Electronics,

skola28's Achievements


RC-Cam'er (2/4)



  1. Awesome work! Keep that up! Crash9 is right on, TAKE VIDEO!
  2. I have a JR 652 (older computerish radio). I have a landing gear toggle, and a flaps toggle built into it; but I'd like to have a potentiometer instead on one or the other... probably both. I read through that thread you forwarded (nice work on that by the way); You said: "I do not know what that model Tx is. But, if it is an "older" design (pre-1995 origins) then you may be in luck. Just open it up and see if a NE5044 IC is in it. If it is, then the basic concepts outlined here can be used." Does that still apply to the JR radio I have? I'm guessing b/c its a 'computer' radio this will not work. But also, I'm not trying to ADD a channel, but rather just convert a current one. I may end up having to use a separate RX and TX for camera pan, or possibly just forgo use of the Rudder...
  3. I have a 6 channel JR radio that has two switches on the shoulders of the controller which are simple two position toggles... Do you know if it is possible to change those into a dial type switch which would use a potentiometer like the other 4 channels? And by possible, I mean relatively easy...
  4. I agree... Without having a way to easily change the focal distance, I'm not sure that a moving application would turn out as you hope. I know it works well for one focal object a few meters away, but something where you are looking around at different distances ... could be hairy. I'd say, find a way to strap a ranging device on it that could update fast enough to 'refocus' the cameras at a certain distance.
  5. As an update. I took the back of the case off, and indeed there was damage from a screw. I deduced that it could not have been me that damaged the board, since the screws I used couldn't possibly have traveled that far into the case (ie: they aren't physically long enough). I emailed Vova at rangevideo to see if he would still replace it, but I am not sure this will do any good. He has only my word that I didn't damage the board; and on the internet that usually doesn't go very far. I'll let you know how things go... http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=644584 That is the link to the pictures of the damage.
  6. I actually plugged the camera straight into my TV (bypassed all the wireless tx/rx stuff). I subsequently plugged my Gamecube into the same video port on my TV to make sure it wasn't an issue there.
  7. I recently bought a KX-131 cased camera, and hooked it up to my aircraft. The first day everything looked fine, but when I tried the system out the next day, the only thing that would show up on my screens/monitors/recorders was a blank white screen; as if that was the only thing being sent out by the camera. Has anyone heard of this or ran into this problem before? I sent an email to the store that i bought it from and I am waiting on a reply. Hopefully warranted against this failure!
  8. Thanks for the replies everyone! I'll try your suggestions out when I get back to Iowa (in Maryland on work travel right now).
  9. It just seems that if it were a power problem relating to the sharing of main battery with the motor and the vid transmitter, then it wouldn't have shown up when the battery sources were independent. I had the system installed on an RC Car where the Camera was powered by the 11.1V Lipoly while the car ran on its own power.
  10. My video transmitter and motor run off of the same battery. I ran a test on a different setup which had separate motor and video TX batteries, but I still got the interference in the video. As the throttle increases, the video disturbances are altered. At full throtttle the distortion lines in the video get nearly horizontal and they are very thin. At about half throttle, they are at about 45° and are wider (this condition is very distracting). I am thinking it is not a problem with the shared power source (the video problem at least, maybe a range problem as Mr. RC-CAM pointed out). Do you think its just a problem with my transmitter picking up EMI from the motor? Is there a shielding solution? I guess I could try moving them further apart and see if it helps at all.
  11. Hey guys, I got my entire aircraft wired up last night, and I've discovered a very disturbing problem. My video takes a huge hit when I run the motor on my airplane. I've read many times that its a bad idea to power the camera and the Video Transmitter from the same source b/c of interference, but I have them both isolated (camera has its own battery pack). I'm guessing I'm getting interference from the motor through the video line or transmitter itself. Here is a wiring diagram which shows my setup. Any suggestions? A little background as well: Brushless AXI Motor Panasonic AV100 Video Camera One of the new ebay special video systems (the ones where the sound doesn't work) 11.1V Lipoly driving the Motor and the Video TX
  12. After looking a few things up online about AM vs FM, seems that AM would in fact be WORSE...
  13. Would using a AM Modulation make any difference? I have a few of those laying around and would be interested if anyone has info on AM being less prone to interference....
  14. Wow, sorry about the plane! But interesting footage none-the-less. Also, the Robocat looks very interesting. LOL Just watched the video again, and I would be very surprised if the problem wasn't range and control related. Looked like you handled it fine, until the plane got a certain distance from you. Then it looked VERY sluggish to respond to any of the possible commands. Also, it didn't look unstable, so I wouldn't suspect a CG problem. I agree with the others that it was probably a range issue related to interference. Did you have your TX antenna pulled out? I've nearly lost 2 planes b/c I forgot to pull out the TX antenna. Gets a little ways away, then quits responding... Luckily I figured it out and pulled the antenna out PRONTO! Sounds like you're having a blast EITHER WAY! J. R. (Still waiting for my video TX/RX package to come in the mail)
  15. Couple things: All of my FPV stuff will probably involve a laptop computer b/c it allows me to capture the video directly to hard-disk while flying. I also am planning on eventually replacing all of the TX/RX capabilities with the computer (ie: plug the controller into the computer). Maybe this irTracker could be coupled with a cheap set of goggles to get the motion part. Then, tune the irTracker so it really is 1:1 movement ratio like you said. I agree that turning your eyes the other way is kinda counter-productive. It looked ok in the videos on that site, but I agree that the goggles would be MUCH preferred.
  • Create New...