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Attention: RC-CAM.com will be closing down August 2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This is being announced now (March 2021) so that everyone has time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.


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Everything posted by jtprouty

  1. I sincerely doubt there will be any active policing of the 400' policy unless there was a high profile incident that would bring un-needed attention to the hobby. I enjoy flying sailplanes and we usually come off the launch at more than 400' on a good day! Let's all keep our fingers crossed. Jimmy
  2. Hi All, I just received word that the FAA has released its ruling on RC and UAVs. (See: http://a257.g.akamaitech.net/7/257/2422/01...07/E7-2402.htm) Pretty much reiterates the previous position on RC flight but severly effects flying beyond line-of-site and commercial use. Basically you'll have to license ANY aicraft used for commercial purposes under experimental class (big $$$ and time consuming, I'm sure.) Take a look at the link or a google search for FAA-2006-25714; Notice No. 07-01 will bring it up if the link doesn't work. Happy flying, Jimmy www.jtmodels.com
  3. Hi All, Is there a tutorial anywhere that shows how to interface a PIC with an RC RX? I'm learning how to work with PICs and would eventually like to be able to turn things on and off via a channel on the radio either incrementally (two or more items coming on at different "stick" positions, or simply an ON/OFF relay controlling one device. Also looking for info on how to control a servo. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Happy flyling, Jimmy
  4. Hi All, I'd like to control my Sony DSC-P150 from my R/C receiver. I'd like to plug a "device" into my receiver and then into the camera to be able to control when the shutter is activated. Has anyone done that yet? Any information on how to connect to the camera would be greatly appreciated also. Thanks, Jim
  5. Dan. Carr Precision sells one that's a converted weed eater engine. http://www.carrprecision.com/Pages/prod02.htm The PTO runs right through the oil sump and is perfect for hooking up things that you want to drive. The only issue is that the shaft gets pretty hot so you have to come up with a coupling that won't tranfer the heat to the motor. Cheers, Jim
  6. Dan. You're correct that the FAA wants to regulate UAVs because we fly in "their" airspace and technically amongst the manned aircraft. It's coming whether we like it or not. We just have to see what extremes they go to when the do it. There are those in DC that see the UAVs as a potential threat, which has nothing to do with the regulation. There is active testing going on to determine how to counter a UAV that uses off-the-shelf, inexpensive avionics. The are using some very ingenious methods other than just flat shooting at them. AMA is concerned that using an autopilot to fly
  7. That's what I was thinking about. I'm concerned about driving the motor through the gearbox. I don't know how long the gearbox would hold up. Jim
  8. Ok, hooked up a 3 phase bridge and put the Hacker B50 in the drill press to do some testing. I'm currently getting 1V per 1400 rpm. Does that seem correct? This is a no load voltage and I still need to check how many watts I can get out of the system. Looks like I'll need to gear the system to get the voltage that I need. Anyone know of a good source for gears? Happy flying, Jim
  9. Thanks, Cyber-flyer. I found the following page to be very interesting and helpful as I stumble through this project: http://www.windstuffnow.com/main/3_phase_basics.htm I assume that we're dealing with a delta configuration as show towards the bottom of the page. I have a few different brushless motors (all Hackers) and will post any progress that I make as I make it. Thanks again for your help! Happy flying, Jim
  10. Cyber-flyer, Great work! That's a beautiful install on your X-cell. I have a gas X-cell as well and will hopefully add power to it in the future. Right now I'm trying to add a generator to my Telemaster which has a 31cc gas 4-stroke on it. Luckily it has a power take-off shaft on the back of it with threads on it. Is there any place I can read up on what I need to do to make a 3-phase bridge? How do you determine what diodes to use? Happy flying, Jim
  11. Hi All, Is it possible to use a brushless motor being turned by the aircraft's engine as an alternator? I know the alternators on jets (biz-jets anyway) are triple phase AC that is converted to DC but don't know if we could do this on our R/C stuff. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Would love to try it on my Telemaster with the 31cc 4-stroke and have a couple of motors to try it with. Happy flying, Jim
  12. OK, sorry I can't help. My boss uses these connectors on his micro servos for his Piccolo heli. Hope you can get yours in a reasonable amount of time. Jim
  13. Mr. RC-Cam, The part number that we use is a 51021-0400. I can send you one if you'd like to see if it will work for you. I think the only difference is the alignment pins on the bottom. They are a real pain to crimp because of the small size of the crimp. If you drop one I swear it'll disappear before it hits the floor! Cheers, Jim
  14. Servo City www.servocity.com has them. They sell them with wires or just the connectors and the crimps.
  15. Mr. RC-Cam, Those are definately Molex 4 pin connectors. I get them and the crimps from Mouser on a regular basis. A real pain to crimp so we bought a crimper as well. Mouser will sell in smaller quantities. Cheers, Jim
  16. Hi All, Kind of a weird idea but I'd like to build a binary clock as a father/son project with my 10 yr old. Does anyone know of a website that has information on building one? All I can find is information on where to purchase one. Thanks, Jim
  17. This is exactly why we will soon find ourselves under the regulatory power of the FAA here in the US. From what I've seen they are considering very stringent regulations, even going as far as requiring the pilot of any UAV to have the same flight physical as a commercial pilot. Going too far? In my opinion, yes. We'll have more restrictions put on us than ultralights and probably even gliders. It's coming probably sooner than you think. Cheers, Jim
  18. Precisely the reason we shall all be regulated in the US in the very near future. There are going to be stricter controls put on us than on ultralights and it's coming very quickly. Cheers, Jim
  19. I didn't want to use the tube either but with some B-1/2 sealer (it's an aircraft grade sealer) you can seal the hole very quickly and permanently. I've just used shoe goo temporarily on this one but will break out the sealer once I know everything is working well. Happy flying, Jim
  20. Hi Michael, I'm actually using this one to sense gasoline and have found it to be pretty accurate. I've been able to get consistant results outside of the aircraft and will be trying it inside the plane on Tuesday and hopefully flying it on Wednesday. I'll post results once I've done some more testing. Happy flying, Jim
  21. This final picture shows the calibration markings I used to verify that the circuit was working properly. The tank is a 50oz Du-Bro tank and as luck would have it, measures 10cm from top to bottom (we mount it sideways in our UAV). I made marks every centimeter and then calibrated the circuit. Voltage range was 0-4V so voltage change expected between marks was .4V. Sure enough, I got .4V and can now read my fuel level via a voltmeter. We did make two modifications to the basic circuit. We addes a capacitor and a resistor to pin 6 and to bring up the voltage and to help with averaging.
  22. This picture shows the calibration buttons for the fuel levels. They are set up with common power from the circuit with the low calbration connected to pin 2 on the QT301-D and high going to pin 7.
  23. This picture is of the entire unit. The box on top contains the circuit and will only be used during testing. Unfortunately the only electronics supplier that we have here is Radio Snack and the push buttons that I purchased were too big to mount on the board. I'm ordering some surface mount push buttons and will get rid of the box once they come in. Probably goop the circuit to the tank. In this shot you can also see the copper plate that's been taped to the side of the tank. Note that the copper must run from the bottom of the tank to the top level that you want to measure. If the
  24. Hi Guys, I'm attaching a couple of pix to these posts as I'm not sure how to upload pix to this board. This post include on of the fule probes made of copper tubing. The tubing I used in the fuel tank is 1/16" with the ends soldered closed to keep fuel out.
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