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Attention: RC-CAM.com will permanently shut down on August-08-2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This was announced several months ago (March 2021) to allow our members ample time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.

Mark Harris

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About Mark Harris

  • Birthday 08/08/1985

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    Perth, W. Australia

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RC-Cam Mentor

RC-Cam Mentor (4/4)



  1. We do not support users making their own boards, nor does the license for the soruce code allow it.
  2. The two boards were IFOSD's, stacked one on top of another feeding from one into the other. YOu could do that with dragonosd's but not using the one bob4. We plan to eventually put a scripting language into the DragonOSD Pro version which we're working on, this would allow you to script waypoints and make things happen when you get there. If your dropping candy, please do so near my house If you want to work on code, getting a MikroElectronica dsPICprog is the best thing you can do for yourself. It connects to the IDE we use and allows you to watch the MCU running through code/pause it and such. Fantastic for debugging code! The old board schematics are not compatable with the V1/V1.1 boards, you wouldn't be able to use the IMU or expansion ports, or the newer source code on there.
  3. Once you get good, with the right tip you can get just the right amount of solder on the tip of your iron and use surface tension to go down one side, leaving just the last two pins with a blob on them. A bit of solder wick can quickly remove this. I use SMT tweasers to hold the IC in place as i tack the 4 corners, putting solder on first i find makes it very difficult to get it sitting flat and straight. H.J.Gelsthorpe, i've built a reflow oven out of a $35 toaster oven. It has top and bottom heating elements, and i put two pieces of aluminium sheet at the top below the elements, and two at the bottom above the elements which really help smooth out the heat. Simply preheat to desired temperature (a bit hotter than the solder paste needs), place in oven, keeping the temp fairly low - so the heating elements dont start to change colour - wait for the smoke from the flux to stop coming out and then turn off and let slowly cool. Works fantastic. Also, as far as tips go, i have some 0.2mm and 0.6mm chisel tips for my soldering iron, but i now find i do a better job with the 3mm chisel, it applies heat quicker and easier especially on ground parts, thermals or not. It also allows you to pull more solder off if you put too much on, it's all round far easier i've found. Sander, your board looks like it was stenciled, you can see mounds of solder on blank pads, and that the IC's have floated - not been hand soldered.
  4. I didnt receive any emails either.. mark-AT-intelligentflight.com daniel-AT-intelligentflight.com for dragon stuff
  5. I'm thinking if you want to use the dragon on a helicopter you're going to have to dive in and start modifying the code yourself to make it work. Do you know C?
  6. Once our new 12v step up power supplies arrive, i'll be bundling them with cameras very cheaply so that people can run their cameras off 5v We're working with the camera manufacturer to make the cameras 5v if possible. While i'd love to do some comparative tests, currently the weather is too crappy for me to fly, and it's very overcast and dark outside (unheard of for this time of year...) so i cant even just point it out the window with a 131 to compare them. Once we get some nice bright sunlight and winds under 20km/h i'll compare them. You can look at the videos in this thread, and the photos in the mean time.
  7. Mugur, When ordering, you chose Internation Parcel Post - AIR. This is uninsured and does not offer tracking of any sort just as started on the confirmation of your order being posted As it is christmas time, Australia Post are saying it may take up to 20 days for delivery rather than the standard 7-9 days.
  8. saabguyspg, yes thats me :eek: heh. That was with a really early beta version of my software which used the EMATracker object, not EMADevice. Phils program is far better suited to it
  9. Mugur, Nothing since the email i responded to on Wed 28/11/2007 10:16 AM
  10. The 4455 is an alternative.. but $100, and 8 channels. Been trying to get them to make a single channel of it, they're not having it through.
  11. pseddon, You sure you got the right wires going to the right pins? I know thomas uses a 5 or 6m gps cable unshielded no problems, he puts the GPS in his garden so he can track satellites when working on stuff. lol. Ever tried putting a tiny bit of wire between two SMT pads 0.2mm apart? And then reflowing it? With a machine?! 0ohm = safe and easy. As to PM's my inbox is perpetually full here. I think i remember seeing an email, but didnt see any questions in it so didnt respond. *shrug*
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