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Attention: RC-CAM.com will be closing down August 2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This was announced several months ago (March 2021) to allow our members ample time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.


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Everything posted by gjestico

  1. Well, despite trying several things suggested my the vendor, this thing just don't work. Vendor has told me to return the setup. I also note this particular vendor (who has handled this very well) has removed almost all the 900mhz gear from his site. I suspect I am not the only one having probs....
  2. Based on your advice I wrapped up my bench test gear and went out and did a test in a wide open parking lot this eve. Placed the TX on a plastic box on the ground well away from anything. The results were the equally horrid (possibly worse , indoor distance estimates were generous). I checked the pin on all the sma connectors and they were in correct position. I have been reading some of the tech articles on the RC-Cam site, very informative. I appreciate the knowledge. My test setup is as basic as I can make it, each TX/RX is powered independently by its own 3-cell lipo, no other ancillary gear is connected. I think this particular set is just bad. The TX/RX set came from the same supplier So I have spent the better part of sunday tinkering with this stuff. I would like to find something that just works. I value my time. I never had this trouble with the 2.4g gear. Looking over the DPCAV site, the 'Pro' 500mw 900mhz TX caught my eye. Plus the testing before shipout is a valuable bonus. I see upon further isnpection that the TX unit is not identical to the ones I have, specifally the channel switches are moved, and who knows what else inside. Will I have better luck with the DPCAV gear ? Also, I have need to use a simple dipole on the RX, the patch type is too directional ; the ground station is often in the middle of the flight radius and must work from all angles. Thanks again.
  3. Hello, I have recently purchased a 900mhz TX/RX set from a supplier that had a good online reputation. I am currently running a 2.4g 200mw system (older Blackwidow setup + GP patch !). This has worked well for me but I still get a few dropouts at distance, and I am considering going to 2.4g control for the main aircraft that hauls this stuff around. I have hooked up the new 900mhz gear for a bench test and was immediatly stunned by the crappy range. less than 20 feet. I tried 2 different video sources (camcorder, digital camera). The vendor sent me another TX and it was slightly better, like 25 feet range LOL. Even within range the video quality was very bad, with any white areas showing bad washout and noise/striping Is this par for the course ? needless to say I wont be swapping the existing 2.4 gear anytime soon. It works flawlessy in comparison. I would be willing to try another TX/RX set from a different vendor, But honestly , by the pics anyways, they all look like they are selling the exact same stuff. I should note that this is a fairly high-end application and I am more than willing to pay extra for quality, within reason. Thanks Greg
  4. The intention is to use this only in a stationary hover. I was hoping this would simplify things. Currently the device when engaged has control over the collective pitch channel, thus directly affecting the vertical lift force. This is on an electric heli so the motor speed control has a governor that keeps the rotor RPM steady state. Not looking to control the helis angular attitude whith this device.
  5. I have been working on a device to hold a helicopter at a certain altitude for Aerial photo apps.
  6. I am working on a device to control camera mount, I am an electronics newbie but have a freind who is good with programming micros. We are both learning. Whats the best scheme(programming wise) for decoding the control pulse that is going to be coming into a pic from a standard RX ? wish to modify the pulse and then resend it out to servo. Tried using the search function but didnt get far. Thanks Greg
  7. What would be involved in taking the GPS data from a module and adding the data from a digital baro altitude sensor, then sending the info over a wireless digital RF link ? Basically whats a reccomended starting point. I have a freind whos an electronics whiz but he has never done anything like this before. We just need to be pointed in the right direction. We have the RF link and the digital altitude sensor. Just need the GPS module and the micro to integrate the data. Thanks Greg
  8. On my latest heli, which I hope to use to shoot pro video, I have the camera gimbal (pan,tilt, rec on/off) setup on a second Xmitter. I wish to integrate the ground rx for the vid downlink, the display monitor, and the camctrl TX all into a 1400 pelican hard case. I chose this case as its lid is just right size to mount the 12" lcd monitor used for viewing the downlinked video signal. I wish to have no external dangly bits/antennas. To that end I have hacked a futaba 6ex TX and made it fit in the case. I have used a length of 16ga wire that is wrapped round the interior of the case as the antenna. Wire length is matched to the TX stock ant length. I was made aware that doing this might cause a problem with the RF output board, something about SWR matching. I ran the TX in stock unmodified config and, using a IR temp gun, the output transistor gets to 135 degrees F. In the modifed version with the wire loop antenna it gets to 140. Not much of a diff but Id like to hear the experts opinion on this. It is very important that the case be self contained as it will very likely be used on a lap in a car that will be chasing the heli. Thanks Greg
  9. unfortunatly , as it is built there is no room for slip rings. When I was making the pivot assy I planned from the start to use the IR type if setup. It is totally enlosed from outside light. I figgered i would come up with the electronics later, thats where I'm at now. Good idea though liberating the slip rings from a phone cord. I got a different IR emitter led from the elec store, seems to work better, running it at 30ma getting 2 inches range in open air. Should be better when enclosed right ? This is almost good enough. Greg
  10. I need to send the servo signal over about a 1" gap. cannot have any physical connection between the 2. I need to keep it as simple as possible, it's already at my electronic limits of knowledge ! Its for the 360' revolving mount I have fabricated to hang under my heli. In order for the mount to be truly unilimited there can be no wires between the heli and the mount. The circuit will send the cam trigg signal through the center of the pivot point. think 360 deg pan photo.
  11. Ok I found some issues. The current through the emiiter LED was only 3ma. Must have got the math wrong its now ~20ma with a 150 ohm resistor. It works now, but only when the detector is within a 1/4" of the emiiter. I need more range than that, I reworked the detector circuit as RC-Cam advised, i believe. I got ahold of a scope, a problem seems to be the photransistor never seems to go fully "off" this leads to a pulse that never hits 0V. lowest it gets is 1V. So that seems to affect the range of the setup. Any hints on what to do on the recieve end to fix this ? Revised schematic here. Please excuse the crappy scan of a hand drawing ! Please excuse the "smudges" where I erased stuff !
  12. Troubleshooting, Im using a camcorder to view the IR output of the led. If i connect the Transistor base dreictly to V+ the LED turns on and I can see it on the camcorder screen. it wont turn on at all when run by the RX output. Is this a good way to test things ? Thanks for the help Greg
  13. Basically like this : Note: I am using a PN2222 transistor, if that makes a diff. I had it lying around... Edit : revised schematic in post down the page.
  14. Hello, I would like to use a LED emitter and phototranstor to transmit the RX output signal over a certain distance, To operate a servo . My limited electronics knowledge tells me that I should be able to make a simple circuit to transform the RX Pulse out put to a drive current to run the emitter, then a simple circuit at the other end to drive the servo. Servo end will require its own power supply obviously First problem: I have tried using a 2n2222 transistor , connecting the RX signal wire directly into the transistor base pin through a 1k resistor, then connecting the LED with a resistor to the transistors other pins. No luck getting an output from the LED. This is a Futaba PCM RX so it has a known 3.3v pulse high. Any suggestions for an electronic mental midget ? Thanks
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