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Attention: RC-CAM.com will permanently shut down on August-08-2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This was announced several months ago (March 2021) to allow our members ample time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.


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oxxyfx's Achievements

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  1. What bothers me is the blleding from one channel to the other - that is not something whihc should happen. Also it seems that on one channel he gets the good packlager on the right as it should be and on the other on the left. Is it possible that the channels are mixed somehow?
  2. It was easier this way. I still have to figure out how to copy and save fils from my Rigol scope to USB memory... Here is the first video: Second video: Third video: all these are with siglthly different scope setting.
  3. Hi Terry, nice to see you. I have 2. A Rigol and a Welleman... Which one should I use? :) I will try to measure the output on the LawMate 1.2Ghz system. I have to note that we already replaced Buffy's 1W transmitter, and one of the receivers which we tought it was defective - however I tested it out with regular audio signal and I did not see anything wrong with it. To make sure that this is not coming from the defective receiver, we replaced that receiver as well. The EzAntennaTracker has a trimpot on it to adjust the incoming levels. Maybe there is an issue of the 2 receviers being on different audio levels, when the EzTracker can understand one, the other one may be too faint or to loud to be understood by the EzAntennaTracker... I cannot test a 2.4Ghz at the moment because I don't have any left in stock...
  4. I am sorry Thomas, I don't. I am using a 1.2Ghz Lawmate TX/RX with the EzOSD, but I do not have the oracle in that installation. Is there a way I could measure the amplitude?
  5. Thomas, Buffy is using a standard 1W 2.4Ghz LawMate transmitter and 2 standard 2.4Ghz LawMate receivers. (RX2460). Zoltan.
  6. Thomas, when I first saw the price of the MK, it struck me. Then I went on rcg and started building the spectrosolutions quad bsed on OMM's thread. While waiting for the parts, I decided to get the MK after all, and it came faster than the other components for the other quad. It took me 6-7 hours to build mine - because I was taking pictures every step of the way - to possibly put together a build documentation. Nevertheless, when finaly powered up, everyhting woke up and I had the thing in the air 5 minutes after the first startup. Now, contrary to that I had an issue with the controller for the other quad from the first moment. Even though it was factory tested. Sent it back, waited another 3 weeks till it came back repaired. I was flying the MK happily by then. Finally finished the other quad, and to my surprise, I had to sit on top of it all the time to control it just like a helicopter - versus the MK which would sit in the air on it's own if it is properly trimmed. I tried many things till I decided to quit trying, because there is one universal thuth: "you get what you pay for..." The MK is a very stable platform, and it is worth every penny. No need to go out and fly outside, you can do inside - or even on the front porch - most of my videos are captured taking off from my front yard... Very convenient. Oh - if you decide to buy and, you know where to find me... we'll work on the price for you to bring it closer to your expectations...
  7. Hi, I am late with my response, but (sorry Thomas) I have not been checking this forum very frequently lately. I would like to thank you for your excellent review and post above. Please also note that the optimal voltage to run this thing is around 5V, the resistors which create the input bias are calculated to 5V (correct me if I am wrong Thomas). It will run at lower or higher voltages, however the optimal is around 5V. So the 7805 is a perfect solution, and please use the capacitors, you can get 2 SMD 1206 size capacitors which will fit perfectly between the pins of the Vreg at the root, so no additional circuit board is needed. If I recall correctly the datasheet calls for a 22uF capacitor at the output and a 0.47uF capacitor at the input. Please use these and you'll be fine (you can add 2 x 22uF, the 0.47 is a reccomanded minimum). Zoltan.
  8. Thomas, I remember reading some test done by some german folks about the 633 modules. They said that the video signal levels measured were out of whack - tested 3-4 different 633 modules - and none of them were the same. Sander also said something about Airwave modified these modules to work better - if I recall he said something about the imput inpedance being closer to 50 ohm than 75. Can that cause these problems? I suggested Dimitris to try some other modules the 630 and 631 apperently does not suffer from the same defect... Zoltan.
  9. Hello, just as an update, we have received the new Video splitters. Tested with the 650 and it works excellent. The product pictures are not yest updated on our website, but we will ship only the new splitters from here on. Please add o your cart this item: http://www.nghobbies.com/cart/index.php?ma...products_id=168 Thank you, Zoltan
  10. Funny... Send me one Thomas... So I tested the Video splitter today, this time with properly set up signal line. As per Mr. Rc-Cam's instructions we added a 47uF cap, and 2 resistors. Connected to the 650HQ I've got excellent picture quality on both outputs. This seem to work, you can go ahead an place your order at your convenience, I can send you this modified one or if you are not in a rush, please wait for 8-10 days till I receive the new modified PCB's and I can send you one without haking. I just re-designed the thing and reordered the boards, those should be in in 8-10 days. This will work with any type of cameras this time. Thanks, Zoltan.
  11. I didn't have time to test this out last night, but that will be the first thing I will do tonight, and report back. I will better add the resistors, heat shrink it for you and ship it ready to use. That way I can assume warranty as well for my work. Zoltan.
  12. Ok, let me try... The signal of a standard video image is a kind of wave signal which is split horizontally in the middle into a positive (above the line) and negative (below the line) segment. Well of course it is not split in reality, the horizontal line goes in the middle and the signal goes up and down. The upper portion is the positive AC voltage, the lower is the negative. So, if that is the signal which comes out of the camera - connecting it to this splitter will loose the signal portion below the horizontal line - giving you a picture with rolling lines and missing portions and colors. This is even thought MAXIM specifically states that this should not be happening. For this reason we can electricaly raise the signal above the horizontal line to such a level that all the bottom portions would be above the horizontal line, so in this case you would get a the full picture without any losses. I think this was descriptive enough. The solution is easy but it is required only in case you have those specific cameras with the ac coupling. I will have to try to see if this works with the KPC650 - and let you know. If not, I can always quickly add two resistors to the input of the video signal to raise it "above the line" - and ship it like that to you. It will not be as pretty as it is now, but it will be heat shrinked and it will work. Zoltan.
  13. Hi, I meant to send this early this morning, but then I had to run to work. The chip is a Max4217 video buffer/amplifier. The voltage is between 3.3 and 11.5 as it is required by the Max chip, there is nothing else which would be voltage sensitive on the splitter. Since there is barely any power consumtion on this, this will run as old as possible, barely any heat dissipation. The splitter has a 75 ohm resistor termination at the input - some installations may not require this. Some issues were reported on some situations, but the splitter works very well in most cases. The issues reported were incompatibility with some cameras, because some would require biased AC input signal to work properly even if the MAX chip does not require this. The only way to see if this works o not in your particular installations is to try it out. The splitter will require an external power source. The original design was to complement the SGTX type transmitters, so it will take the 5V coming from the transmitter, but since there is barely any power consumption, a simple LM2940 5V regulator can do the trick. Sorry for the late answer, I did not have time lately to check this forum. Kilrah, thanks for the support... Attached is the design of the splitter, so this will give you a clear view on what's inside. Zoltan New Generation Hobbies.
  14. Well, I think that would not be too hard. Since the RC receiver sends out a pulse to control the servos and we know the length of the pulse in the middle of the stick position is 1.5ms. You just have to time the incoming pulse and see how is it positioned ompared to the middle position - 1.5ms. From there you can calculate the trim. I hope this helps. Oxy.
  15. And a better picture showing you the jumpers and the power connectors. I have to change the 10mH choke to a different one, this one cannot handle the load of the camera and the dragon as well. For now I have it shorted on the bottom.
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