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Everything posted by ddwaner

  1. Mine is still working good with 1 (1400) lipo (3.0-4.1vdc) and a resistor. I used a resistor value to drop to 3.3 going into the transmitter on a fresh charge and charge often. I haven't noticed any range problems and the rig runs cool. I've checked the transmitter with a lipo voltage of 3.0vdc and it seems to process the video signal just fine, my GUESS is that it will work with a input voltage range from 3.3 down to 2.2 and all that is lost is full RF power at less than 3.3vdc. I am flying at 2 miles or less so I don't see any range loss (I've never seen the transmitter at less than WALL to WALL when powered). I most often fly 2 or 3 times (10min flights) then charge the transmitter batt with my field charger.
  2. Design Mods Tx has been updated to a regulator less design. The transmitter assembly can now operate in still air till the battery runs down, I expect about 2 hours per charge . Only the transmitter case is warm to the touch. I will range check soon. Rx has been updated to a 1/4 wavelength antenna from 1/2 wavelength. Far less drop outs at short range. Long range tests soon.
  3. As long as its not on the recorded video the OSD would be fine, with or without a switch. Just place the values outside of the video frame and use 1 widescreen monitor, just keep the Text off my final recordings (unless you use CC/Teletext line).
  4. A digital servo would cost too much unless its one from the junk drawer that is to be used for a bomb drop or something. I plan on using a HT55 that I would not trust to fly a airplane. The device must be cheap, cheap to build and use, Oh Yeh, it needs to be light in the aircraft too (a micro gyro and 2 resistors (<10gr including wiring @<11ma)).
  5. Ok... I am cleaning up the edges when I come out of the reciever and raising the signal back to a level that a servo can use. I still have a little more to go to get a working device. I had to laugh, "A stupid servo has good'ole analog circuitry", OH BUT WHAT IF I USE A DIGITAL SERVO.... Never Mind...
  6. Ok butt..... If the tx/rx can carry a audio signal from 50Hz~20kHz and the sound card input of a computer is the same range. A transmitter buddy signal with 8 ppm channels running can be inputted to a computer sound card audio input at the mic jack and decoded into the 8 pulse channels cleanly enough to use that input to fly a 6-8 channel simulator with a standard transmitter. The range for only 1 channel would be much easier to send. I'm bread boarding the circuit now to see, so far so good, the ground amp restores the pulse input level fine. Overdriven??? I gonna send a line level signal (prob <100mv). (Not Modulation..., attenuation)
  7. Attention (MODIFICATION OF THE MECHANICAL "plumb Bob" device) Improvements of the Idea... No moving Parts added to the aircraft Inexpensive Generates 2 values from 1 channel IMPORTANT(for some) At least 1 Gyro (however inexpensive) would be used! Accel/Decel/GForce is better compensated for. The pot and arm with a weight is to be replaced with... I use a 7 channel PCM receiver, so come out of like channel 7 with a NON Changing under good conditions servo center 1.5 signal and run it into a simple cheap rate gyro with some gain. I have these gyro's in my spare parts drawer so I didn't have to buy any. Mount the gyro so that it detects nose up/down/level changes and program the PCM Channel 7 channel to fail safe something like a servo full down signal. Output the gyro signal into one of the audio channels of the video transmitter (Use a couple of resisters to pad the signal some (My transmitter says it can handle a 3v audio signal)). ON THE GROUND Now back to the original Idea of reamp back to a servo signal and place the servo arm in view (maybe make a nice little airplane that looks level with no changes). Now anytime the nose changes (along the gyro sensed angle) the ground airplane will show which direction and some idea of magnitude of change, if you get too far away and the receiver starts fail safe'ing, your little ground airplane will nose down. Costs a little more but its easy to get the parts and the new "Plumb Bob" has no moving parts and Accel/Decel/GForce is better compensated for and some idea of the ground transmitter signal level at the aircraft would be returned. Sounds like a fun little project to me (some like fuzzy dice hanging from the rear view mirror). Cheap Gyro $26.50 2 Resisters $1.00 Amp IC $3.00 Servo $10.00
  8. I'd still like to know if anyone has built the unit to read the aircraft values and places the values in the closed captioning line for transmit to the ground. Any monitor with CC could show the values and they could be recorded with the video feed and there would be NO problem with the text overlay singing with transmitter types. SEEMED LIKE A GOOD IDEA TO ME...That would keep the display clean from the aircraft. Wonder if it would be hard to mod one of these. http://www.wingedshadow.com/howhigh.html
  9. As long as YOUR buy'N. $250.00 is a bit price'E, I'd more use the little compass ball in front of the camera for about a dollar. For $250 I could build a second video feed setup and send just the instrument panel (including compass ball) to the ground and still make change. One of the advantages of ELECTRIC aircraft is that you don't have to clean the camera lenses as often and they almost NEVER start backwards.
  10. Anyone interested... This is the field I most often fly. Its about 5 minutes from where I live. The full view High Res Pic is here... http://rcflyerscu.hobby-site.org/RemotePic...nways_zoom3.jpg
  11. Had bad weather today so I experimented with smoothing out the roll with wind. I used a old piezo gyro that I used on my Shogun Heli and placed it on the aileron channel and went back to the OLD way when using two aileron servos using a Y harness. I first set the gain on the gyro HIGH but found that the airplane was so ROCK solid on aileron that I would not have been able to do GOOD aerobatics. I ended up using about the same gain as I used on small helicopters like the Shogun or T-Rex (tail ctrl). The gyro cost about $55 new and has always done well for the money. It is mounted outside of the aircraft today because it does not have remote gain adjustments, also, the gain adjustment effects center so now that I have the gyro gain how I want it, I will fix it inside the aircraft. When my camera plane is complete I expect to use this gyro on elevator and a Futaba 240 on aileron for aircraft/camera stability (but that means I have to take my 240 off my T-Rex and buy a new Futaba 401 to go back on my T-Rex, OH WELL..). I also built a NiMh 6 cell 1100 battery for the receiver. When using the battery, the regulator seems to run cooler and the battery should be able to run about 5 or 6 hours on a charge with the receiver.
  12. Got 3 flights. I found that with 3 Spektrum transmitters running I had a better picture when I went from channel 2 to 4. I made 1 landing from the monitor. The Airwave TX/RX combo transmits the audio from the camera module good an clear. I still had some dropouts which I will work on with RX placement, today I just did it the EASY WAY. From the 10mw TX/RX combo I was using to the one I have now, I have decreased the number of dropouts by about 70%. P.S. I must have taken the last two pictures with the camera in the low light mode in full daylight, or it was in Macro mode.... Oh well I got a snap of the rig (today). ONCE AGAIN The main part of this experiment is a "GOOD CHAIR"
  13. When it comes down to building the aircraft and transmitter and reciever and ground setup and recording and editing and web site establishment and developement with FTP, I have been for the most part "ON MY OWN". I couldn't even get a ready made 2.4 TX/RX combination so I had to fabricate from parts. My 25 years in industrial automation electronics and instrumentation may help a little (I was kind of a Rocket Scientist too(I did Industrial Combustion Work for years)). Today's ground RIG.
  14. The derived horizon from the altitude changes would do just fine at about 1 to 3 second intervals. If the aircraft lost altitude in the last 3 seconds then its falling which would be what I want to know. It hard to pick the aircraft out of the top of some of the tree's so the numeric of the altitude would be the most important. I still don't have problems with the plumb bob method, it would probably tell me what I wanted to know but if I can omit the device and derive the value with the other existing devices in the aircraft, so much the better,... and it would work better!!!
  15. If you don't change the altitude then the horizon is still level using the pressure sensor from the altitude downlink.
  16. So if the Altitude is 500 feet and 3 seconds later the altitude is read and it is now 510 feet. Did the aircraft Climb/Fall/OR Stay Level the last 3 seconds. Would you say Climb!!! Now decide what the trigger threshold will be. Maybe add 2 more LED so if the value is greater than 20 another LED would light till the next sample.
  17. So just read the altitude and generate a psudo horizon that would indicate climb, fall or level compared to the last altitude sample. Hmmm... Wouldn't need a servo just a linear IC and 3 LED's. That would be only 1 device in the aircraft and would be lighter and cheaper than 2 devices in the aircraft and acceleration/deceleraton/GForce would be less a factor and I could use the second audio channel for something else (like receiver signal strength) 3 values from 2 audio channels!
  18. So it's not gonna read right when I'm do'in a loop (course I won't spill any water out of a glass either). So if my lateral acceleration is NOT Zero and the screen is showing a big change in direction, I should NOT be looking at the artificial horizon. I should be looking at the monitor and trying to get back to smooth flying (GOOD IDEA!).
  19. 59.95 is what I am seeing. I'm still looking for cheaper solutions.
  20. I already have the chart from ground level UP. Its easier than it sounds. Its true that at times the horizon indicator would indicate level when the craft wasn't but I don't need to read a LOOP, just know if the nose is up or down in level flight. It needs to be better than a glass of water on the dash but I want to try easier ways before using mult axis gyro's. Also keep in mind, I can usually see the horizon, a mark on the monitor sides where the sky meets the ground might be just fine.
  21. To make the altitude sensor part I need a dp cell with a odd range. That will give the resolution for accuracy. I don't need to read 0 to 30,000 feet.
  22. I am Cheap, Cheap, Cheap.... How about a pot with a weight on it connected to 555 and transmitted to the ground on a audio channel (my transmitter has 2). Reamp to 5vdc and move a horizon indicator with a servo mounted on my monitor. I want to sit on my but and fly from the monitor. Most important part of this experiment is a good chair.
  23. I'm short on money is why I am building rather than buying a MULTI HUNDRED dollar rig. The box was from my stock, I checked a ...Al U Mini U M... box and they wanted about $5 and I was just too cheap for that. I may add TAPE for water proofing. I will be doing recording again after I make the range checks with just the receiver and monitor. I still may have motor noise to get rid of and I'm still working on a good artificial horizon setup and maybe a altitude reading. I'm still scaveng'N for 555's and a pressure sensor. The pressure sensor is the hard thing to find. I want a strange range with a 0-5vdc output. That's still work in progress. YES 7805 I plan to run a older 9" Sony 110vAC monitor and a transformer for the transmitter from a APC 400 UPS running from my Car Battery (I'll add a VCR later). Right now I'm trying to get what I can local (The Shack) etc. My camera plane is NOT ready quite yet so I have a little time before I step up the equipment resolution.
  24. Ready for flight tests. I changed the female plug to a cable with male ends to connect directly to a monitor or VCR (DVD Recorder). The opening allows for regulator cooling and channel selections and I added a protective antenna tube. The box measures 51mm X 28mm X 76mm
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