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drmarty

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About drmarty

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    RC-Cam Visitor
  1. Terry, Technically, yes. See http://www.buchmann.ca/Chap4-page8.asp This is from Batteries in a Portable World. I wasn't trying to mislead anyone but merely to point out that 1) if your charger cuts off at 4.0 or 4.1 volts then the battery is not full and 2) if you see the battery going much past 4.25v I think you should stop it. Also they should not get hot. I think the Astro 109 probably uses the correct charging method but I wonder about the others. I have seen schematics for homemade chargers which clearly don't. Of course the Schulze ISL 6-330d (version 8) should be fine. Ma
  2. Oh yea, I forgot to add some things. Lithium cells are rated at 3.6 or 3.7 volts NOMINAL. That is a spec and a term that is worthless to us. Nominal doesn't even have a consistent definition. It is a design voltage or something. I am sure somebody will say it means something but for Lithium batteries it is of no help. Lithium batteries are charged at a constant voltage and a constant current and the charge is terminated by voltage and not an algorithm after "peaking." A lithium cell or pack is full when it has reached 4.2v per cell. That is 8.4v for a 2 cell pack and 12.6v for a 3 c
  3. I have MANY LiPo chargers. MAHA by Powerex, Triton from Great Planes, Hobbico field charger, 2 cell "chip charger" from Bob Selman, Apache 1 or 2 cell charger and Apache 1 to 4 cell Smart Charger. Hmm, Any more? MAHA $80 does up to 4 cells. max rate is 400ma for Li. No settings. As long as you have it on Li (instead of Ni) just plug it in and wait. It has a screen to let you know what is up. It charges for 3 minutes then analyzes and charges. I have charged a single cell 45 mAh up to a 12 cell 3S4P 4800 mAh pack without a problem. It does seem to over charge a little but the cells don't pu
  4. The forum has been great help even in my dumbness so far. And now my latest problem. I found my first progammer was a Flash only and wouldn't work so I looked around and it seemed the Kitsrus K150 USB PIC Programmer would be fine. To speed things up I bought it assembled and tested and got the 40 pin ZIF socket for it. I am using a lab power supply for the necessary 16 volts DC so that shouldn't be a problem and when I power it up I get a power light on. I am having trouble getting my computer to recognize the board. I have all the latest software and the required drivers for the USB chip on t
  5. I try not to think about colonoscopy. Butt seriously. That camera is very big. It recieves the image through coherent fiberoptic bundles which actlike a long flexible lens. Sorry to burst that bubble. marty Dr. Marty
  6. well as I said your patience with us is profound. I ordered a bunch of stuff when I started this project and the chip came bare. It was in a piece of static foam wrapped in aluminum foil. No identifying info. I am not even sure why I think it is Richard's (tho I am sure it is now) anyhoo, onward and upward. boy am I red faced Marty
  7. I appreciate your patience. I used a programmed chip I got from Richard Ingram. I was careful with it but who knows? To check my connections I draw a picture of my hookup like I was getting ready to take it apart and then compare it to the instructions and it all looks right. pin 1 to the cap, the pos source and pin 5; pin 2 empty; pin 3 to shutter switch; pin 4 to res; pin 5 to pin 1; pin 6 empty; pin 7 empty; pin 8 to cap and ground. the Radio leads are Neg (brown) to USB housing, Pos (red) to USB the top pin; Signal (orange) to the res on pin 4. I rechecked the cap and res and they are
  8. Well I got the chip. Thanks. I installed it using Kynar wire. some of the soldering is interesting but all accomplished without a problem. Rechecked everything and reassembled. No worky. Opened it up and the wire from A to 3 had come off. Resoldered. Rechecked all others. Now when I plug in the camera to the receiver it beeps and the screen comes on. It will atake a picture with the shutter switch and the mode switch works. I get no response from the transmitter. I opened it up again and checked the voltages at the switch and at pin 3 and they are ok. I made a Y harness and put the camera
  9. Thanks again for your prompt attention and quick help. marty
  10. RC Cam Man, Thanks for the reply. OK, I was up all night messing eith this and what you said is exactly what I was beginning to tumble to. It is wierd because they list the 12C508 as supported. OH well. Next step. Do I bundle this up and return it to Digikey? Or can I use a different 8 pin package with your hex code? Like the 12CXXX/JWND shich is an EPROM. Oh by the way, while I was reading the whole thread last night (and several others) I saw your offer to sell programmed chips. It was not until after I had e-mailed you that I saw the date was 2002. DUH. Sorry. I am helping a good friend
  11. Well here I go. I have read and reread all the stuff. Thanks Mr RC Cam. I ordered the chips from Digikey. I ordered 10. I also ordered their Microchip PICkit 1 Flash starter kit programmer. It lists the 12C508 as being supported. When I try to write to the chip, I get an error. It says to "Insert Device." It does not appear to be writing but I don't know how to tell short of building it which seems like too much work since I am pretty sure it isn't working. Has anyone else used the Microchip PICkit 1 Flash Starter Kit? Help Thanks Marty
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