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Attention: RC-CAM.com will be closing down August 2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This is being announced now (March 2021) so that everyone has time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.


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About saabguyspg

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  • Birthday 01/21/1975

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  1. In parallel with video input = between video and ground. So none of your sketches fit ah well that makes sense now!! hahah... thanks guys. I will give this a shot.
  2. Hi Mike, thanks for this! I have a few dumb questions if you don't mind. First are you saying to put a 75ohm resistor in parallel on the video wire from the camera to the video TX? Would the video signal not just take the path of least resistance and not go through the resistor? second I have discovered that my 5V video transmitter and camera does not work well at 5.0v. It seems like it is overpowering the system as you describe here. I have hooked up an anyvolt micro and reduced the voltage down to 4.1v and the video is better. It sounds like I am doing the same thing that the re
  3. wow that really is promising!! very cool. 640x480 at 15fps woudld be quite excellent... 25fpv would be amazing!!! good find, keep us posted!
  4. ah yes I would not think you would wire as per this picture.... yeah the new board has huge pads that all the wires are soldered but I suppose that does not mean the switch is not the bottle neck like you say.... mmm... I may go home and ditch my switch too... it is just annoying anyway ;-) and I'll save some weight! I sitll don't know why my PIC died but I don't care... so long as it's working again!
  5. whoa mine is not wired like that at all... my two main power wires go to the board direct (huge solder pads). also the power feeds to the ESC's are off the main borad (huge solder pads). Far as I know or can tell the switch is just used to turn power on to the board itself. If you solder it up like the picture I could see that being a problem. If all the power went through that little 6A switch it would have died long ago seeing as there is likely 30-40 amps being drawn.
  6. Hi all, I too am wondering how to set up fail-safe with this... Here is my guess. When I bind I have the throttle set to a negative value so that when the board sees this negative value it stops sending signals thus putting the MK FC into fail safe mode. Is this how it works? On another note I plugged my MK in for a flight tonight and left the FC switch on (this I have done many times before without issue) when I do this it causes a spark at the battery connection but this time did some damage. My ppm converter from then on had the LED stay on continuously. I checked the board for a
  7. sorry I don't have much time here so this may sound short. 900mhz has less line of sight issues, the higer the frequency the more line of sight it has to be. Also you get more distance with 900mhz. The only negative to 900 is the large patch ant. instead of a very small one for 5.8. video quality is the same happy flying!
  8. I have to dive into this again, and get you the straigh facts in one post. I was wondering how to set up the failsafe on this becaue at the moment I have none. I will go home and check everything next chance I get.
  9. Hi again all, I had no idea this thread was active again. Just as an interesting side note to my system. I have a spektrum module plugged into a Futaba 9ZAP I use a spektrum AR7000 receiver Platform is the MK There must be something different in this setup compared to he DX7 because I can only get 6 channels working in MK tools. But the other channel is working if I y-cable a servo into the "signal" line that runs from the receiver to the ppm converter. So I just use that one channel for my shutter release. I am not sure why i don't get the 7th channel and you would think it's
  10. Thanks Brashley!!! and thanks to Mr rc-cam for both your help. I know it's annoying helping us non electrical guys but we got her done! The mk is hovering in a space about 8'x8' (very small but only broke one prop on my drill press so far) Thanks for the tip about assigning the parameters to all channels... I actually ended up with a close call because of something similar going wrong but it's all good now. I am having trouble getting one of my channels to show up in the mk tools but for now I can live without it. I use a futaba 9zap with spektrum module so I had to do some creative test
  11. yippeee skippeee... ok so I have it all sorted now... the led on the ppm converter goes out (like it is supposed to do) I did not have the jumper soldered... done and the red light is out on the fc board! sucess it is getting ppm.... thanks guys, sorry for the questions but like I say hope it helps someone else.
  12. ok so I put 5v from the receiver to the ppm converter and I get three quick flashes of the led then the led goes on solid.. I have to assume this is a good sign!!! no puffs of smoke...
  13. ok lucky me then as I have just tested the MK with brushless controllers and I have green lights on all of them as well as some nice morse code bleeping at me. I belive this is a good sign but the lack of english instruction is really becoming difficult at this point.... ie. for the FC there is an interface to the usb connection but no indiacation as to polarity one end to the other... well at least not that i have found as of yet.... it would sure be helpfull if someone wrote a proper how to manual.. but then I guess everyone and their dog would be flying them... I am barely out of th
  14. ok so I have the MK wiring harness ready to go... except for in the wiki the board they are using is different than mine so I can't hook up my + and - to the brushless controllers just yet.... but looking at the PPM converter there is a + and - on the board and there is the + - for the ppm signal here is my assumption please tell me if I am correct The ppm stream goes from the ppm converter board to the mk ppm connection and so does the + and - ..... so I assume that this provides power from the mk board to the converter board? Then the larger pads that are + and - labeled on the
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