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Attention: RC-CAM.com will be closing down August 2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This is being announced now (March 2021) so that everyone has time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.


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About brashley

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  1. The 7 channels (signal line only) go to the 1-7 marked on the converter board. The 'RUDD' channel on the AR7000 must go to the 7 on the converter. The three pads under the letters "AR7K-PPM" only 2 of those pads are used. the '+' is for +5V and the '-' is for ground and they get connected to the AR7000 for its power. These are what get connected to the MK (this is the output). + and - are for the power comming from the MK (5V, gnd) and the 'N' is for the negative PPM and the 'P' is for the positive PPM out signal. For the MK it does not matter what one you use but you only need to
  2. No, Lipoly has the UAVP platform board. The Mikrokopter is at http://www.mikrokopter.com/ucwiki Sorry, my mistake. I forgot we were dealing with only 6 channels. So that looks good. You can always just get the bare boards and populate them yourself.... Much cheaper that way. Richard
  3. Sorry, cant help with this. I use the Mikrokopter boards and SW. The spectrolutions board looks Dragonfly quad board like. That is why I mentioned it before when I looked at your picture. Lets hope he can help you or you may end up very unhappy. Yes, it looks like you are missing a channel. Make sure you have the RUDD hooked up as your 7th channel on the converter. Richard
  4. Ok, I worked it in..... For the AR6100 the sequence is as follows: 1) Aile 2) Aux1 3) Gear 4) Elev 5) Thro 6) Rudd So you will need to hook up the RUDD channel to P1-7. I tried it out and I get all chennels out and clear on the scope. It should work for you as well. I dont know if you can make channel assignments for the DF because you cannot change the sequence above (ie. channel 1 is Aile, channel 2 is Aux1, etc). For the MK, the configuration tool allows us to assign any channel to any function so the sequence is not important. Richard
  5. I dont have a AR6100 either so I cant validate what channel should go to P1-7. It looks like this is a DF and not an MK. I think the best bet is to go with the the first guess to start with, then if channels are missing (as RC-Cam indicated) then move each channel one by one to P1-7 (all other channels must be plugged in to the other P1 spots) until you have all channesl show up. (or use a scope if you have one and look at the timing) I dont know how you check channels on a DF. Richard EDIT: I do have a AR6100.....I will try to hook it up to the scope and see what is going one from a ti
  6. Hi Christain. One of the problems is that the only channel that can be “programmed” with a failsafe position is the throttle; all other channels stay the same. So you could remove the PIC and set the throttle to say ~40% (something that has the MK descend slowly). That would certainly work. The motors would never go off though if the signal was never reconnected. At least with the PIC the FltCtr allows you to set the ‘On’ time of the motors and the FltCtr also goes into a very stable flying mode (just level with modified parameters). If you use the AR7000 only with throttle failsafe the
  7. Good Job!! RED LED on FltCtr going off is a good sign but you will need to make sure you have all 7 channels in MK-Tools. No USB on the FltCtr (from your note in other thread) it is all serial. You either need a serial port or some USB to serial port converter in order to get things working with MK-Tools. The Channel configuration tab in MK-Tools will be your proof that all is well .You should be able to see all 7 channels move and you should be able to setup each channel so that the throws and centering all work correctly. I think I have some notes earlier in this thread that give my DX7
  8. You dont need to have any of the brushless controllers hooked up to get the Flt-Ctr working. I would actually advise against it, make sure everything is ok before you start hooking up ESC and motors. Yes, power needs to go from the MK to the Converter then to the Receiver and No you don’t need gnd for each channel (they all use the same gnd) I used one sdt servo connection (signal, +5, gnd) and hooked it up to RUDD on the receiver (this is the one that goes to the last channel on the converter (7 on P1). This is the only channel whose position is critical. All the other channels I just u
  9. Yes, I looked at AJ's AR9000. Some of the channels overlap each other. I could get four channels to work with the converter out of 7 that I could test (I only have a DX7 and once bound to that the AR9000 would only send out PWM on 7 channels). I could not tell if I could get the other 2 channels to work or not because I could not get any signals for them. My hope was that I could at least get 6 of the 9 to work with the MK and you could then pull off the other 3 ch separately. Unfortunately, I could not validate that this would work that way. We would need someone to map out the channel s
  10. I am not sure what you were measuring... This may sound funny but if you don’t have a scope I would say just hook it up. Well, you could double check for any shorts with your DMM (especially between power and gnd) and then hook up power and make sure all power is correct to all ICs. Then at that point you need to just wire it up for the AR7000 and get your MK going so you can then hook it up to the MK and see if the MK is seeing all the channels in MK-Tools. If you have a friend with a scope, you would still need to hook up the AR7000 but you could then look at the PPM signal and see
  11. For soldering, check out the links in this message. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.ph...;postcount=3604 Don’t worry about the flux until you are done. 3 sec is fine . The only thing in the V3 layout that does not need to be orientated in a certain way are the resistors and caps. You have to get the orientation correctly for the diode arrays (d1- d3) the Pic (u3), the monostable multivibrator (u2) the NOR gates (U1) and the LED. For help just Google the component and find the datasheet (Like http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/philips/74221.pdf )and look at the packagin
  12. Thanks Mr RC-Cam for keeping up with this. I have been out of commission for a while but trying to slowly get back into the swing of things. Richard
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