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Everything posted by brashley

  1. The 7 channels (signal line only) go to the 1-7 marked on the converter board. The 'RUDD' channel on the AR7000 must go to the 7 on the converter. The three pads under the letters "AR7K-PPM" only 2 of those pads are used. the '+' is for +5V and the '-' is for ground and they get connected to the AR7000 for its power. These are what get connected to the MK (this is the output). + and - are for the power comming from the MK (5V, gnd) and the 'N' is for the negative PPM and the 'P' is for the positive PPM out signal. For the MK it does not matter what one you use but you only need to use one of them. Right above the letters "AR7K-PPM" you will two pads for each channel (the other side of the board has it labled 1 through 8) you put a solder jumper on the one channel that lines up with your 'Throttle channel. This is to sellect the failsave input. See c) above Richard
  2. No, Lipoly has the UAVP platform board. The Mikrokopter is at http://www.mikrokopter.com/ucwiki Sorry, my mistake. I forgot we were dealing with only 6 channels. So that looks good. You can always just get the bare boards and populate them yourself.... Much cheaper that way. Richard
  3. Sorry, cant help with this. I use the Mikrokopter boards and SW. The spectrolutions board looks Dragonfly quad board like. That is why I mentioned it before when I looked at your picture. Lets hope he can help you or you may end up very unhappy. Yes, it looks like you are missing a channel. Make sure you have the RUDD hooked up as your 7th channel on the converter. Richard
  4. Ok, I worked it in..... For the AR6100 the sequence is as follows: 1) Aile 2) Aux1 3) Gear 4) Elev 5) Thro 6) Rudd So you will need to hook up the RUDD channel to P1-7. I tried it out and I get all chennels out and clear on the scope. It should work for you as well. I dont know if you can make channel assignments for the DF because you cannot change the sequence above (ie. channel 1 is Aile, channel 2 is Aux1, etc). For the MK, the configuration tool allows us to assign any channel to any function so the sequence is not important. Richard
  5. I dont have a AR6100 either so I cant validate what channel should go to P1-7. It looks like this is a DF and not an MK. I think the best bet is to go with the the first guess to start with, then if channels are missing (as RC-Cam indicated) then move each channel one by one to P1-7 (all other channels must be plugged in to the other P1 spots) until you have all channesl show up. (or use a scope if you have one and look at the timing) I dont know how you check channels on a DF. Richard EDIT: I do have a AR6100.....I will try to hook it up to the scope and see what is going one from a timing point of view. It will probably have to be tomorrow evening though.
  6. Hi Christain. One of the problems is that the only channel that can be “programmed” with a failsafe position is the throttle; all other channels stay the same. So you could remove the PIC and set the throttle to say ~40% (something that has the MK descend slowly). That would certainly work. The motors would never go off though if the signal was never reconnected. At least with the PIC the FltCtr allows you to set the ‘On’ time of the motors and the FltCtr also goes into a very stable flying mode (just level with modified parameters). If you use the AR7000 only with throttle failsafe then all channels but the throttle are held at the last position so if you were moving away (tilted) you would continue to fly away with motors never stopping until the battery is burned up. With a simple code change in the FltCtr you could activate the ComeHome function on PPM signal loss (who knows, they may add something like this in the future). The PIC solution would allow you to take advantage of that. It is your preference…. Richard
  7. Good Job!! RED LED on FltCtr going off is a good sign but you will need to make sure you have all 7 channels in MK-Tools. No USB on the FltCtr (from your note in other thread) it is all serial. You either need a serial port or some USB to serial port converter in order to get things working with MK-Tools. The Channel configuration tab in MK-Tools will be your proof that all is well .You should be able to see all 7 channels move and you should be able to setup each channel so that the throws and centering all work correctly. I think I have some notes earlier in this thread that give my DX7 setting per channel. Dont forget to make the channel selections/mapping for each param setting. Other wise when you switch thing will stop working and you may accedentally start the motors and have some bad things happen. Richard
  8. You dont need to have any of the brushless controllers hooked up to get the Flt-Ctr working. I would actually advise against it, make sure everything is ok before you start hooking up ESC and motors. Yes, power needs to go from the MK to the Converter then to the Receiver and No you don’t need gnd for each channel (they all use the same gnd) I used one sdt servo connection (signal, +5, gnd) and hooked it up to RUDD on the receiver (this is the one that goes to the last channel on the converter (7 on P1). This is the only channel whose position is critical. All the other channels I just used single connectors on the signal pin. The BEC is another mess. You need to be careful when you start mixing different 5v sources together which is what you would be doing if you ran the receiver from a BEC and the converter from the MK 5v vreg. I just pulled the 7805 off the MK and wired in a DE SportBEC and run everything off of that. Richard
  9. Yes, I looked at AJ's AR9000. Some of the channels overlap each other. I could get four channels to work with the converter out of 7 that I could test (I only have a DX7 and once bound to that the AR9000 would only send out PWM on 7 channels). I could not tell if I could get the other 2 channels to work or not because I could not get any signals for them. My hope was that I could at least get 6 of the 9 to work with the MK and you could then pull off the other 3 ch separately. Unfortunately, I could not validate that this would work that way. We would need someone to map out the channel sequence for the AR9000 (on all 9 channels) to see how many channels are simultaneously spit out. Richard
  10. I am not sure what you were measuring... This may sound funny but if you don’t have a scope I would say just hook it up. Well, you could double check for any shorts with your DMM (especially between power and gnd) and then hook up power and make sure all power is correct to all ICs. Then at that point you need to just wire it up for the AR7000 and get your MK going so you can then hook it up to the MK and see if the MK is seeing all the channels in MK-Tools. If you have a friend with a scope, you would still need to hook up the AR7000 but you could then look at the PPM signal and see if all was OK. If not we would have to work are selves back into what the problem is.
  11. For soldering, check out the links in this message. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.ph...;postcount=3604 Don’t worry about the flux until you are done. 3 sec is fine . The only thing in the V3 layout that does not need to be orientated in a certain way are the resistors and caps. You have to get the orientation correctly for the diode arrays (d1- d3) the Pic (u3), the monostable multivibrator (u2) the NOR gates (U1) and the LED. For help just Google the component and find the datasheet (Like http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/philips/74221.pdf )and look at the packaging section for clues on orientation marks. Richard
  12. Thanks Mr RC-Cam for keeping up with this. I have been out of commission for a while but trying to slowly get back into the swing of things. Richard
  13. Hi David. All you need to do is identify the last channel in the sequence (as the receiver spits it out, not sure on the AR6000 but RC-CAM might know, for the AR7000 it is the RUDD channel) and hook that up to the last channel on the converter (channel 7), the others don't matter in terms of order. The channel 7 parts are needed to produce the final pulse on the falling edge of the last channel PWM signal. The rest of the pulses are generated from the rising edge of the other PWM channels. So if you have six PWM channels you need 7 PPM pulses (start and 6 for the channels) I have an AR6000, if I get time I will check to see what the last channel is. I have just never checked before. Richard
  14. That looks fantastic Mr.RC-Cam. Yep, that SOT is about the size of 5 fleas. I would imagine since we had no problems with the failsafe working in the PIC12F509 between the DX6 and the DX7 that the timing limits between the two is fairly close and that your code for the PIC10F should work equally well for both as well. Richard
  15. You can get them form Horizon Hobby http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Defau...?ProdID=SPM9545 They also have extensions for the receivers http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Defau...?ProdID=SPM9012 Richard
  16. For those who are actually paying attention, I mentioned that the PIC output gets hooked up the HC221 CLR Pins 3 & 10. That was incorrect ; it was actually Pins 3 & 11 (I will change my earlier post). Looking at the Function table for the HC221, the end result is about the same (I will get one extra pulse on the rising edge of the B input but other than that it is the same) I soldered it to the wrong pin and then documented what I soldered. You may also notice from the picture above that I did not have the cap in between V+ and GND, I have also now added that as well. I also now tacked down the white wires with a dab of glue to hold them in place. A new picture is included in this post Richard Updated Picture of Converter:
  17. AR7000 PWM-to-PPM failsafe beta test: RC-Cam provided a HEX file for a PIC (12F509) that detects either a low or high exaggerated throttle pulse width (position) and then provides a low or high signal that can be used to signify a lost signal state. The process goes like this; 1) set your throttle low throw to 150% 2) bind your receiver to the TX (this sets the lost signal throttle to the low 150% value) 3) once the binding is done, reset the throttle throw to the standard 100% 4) add the PIC to the converter and hook up the Failsafe Low Output to the two CLR inputs of the HC221 (PIC pin 3, HC221 pins 3&11) 5) hook up the throttle to the PIC (pin 7) 6) add a LED to the failsafe high if you want (pin 6) [with appropriate resistor of course RC_Cam recommended a 220 ohm series resistor for std bright LED] 7) Hook up power and GND (pin 1, pin 8) 8) Add .1uF cap across V+ and GND on the PIC (needed for the PICs internal oscillator stability) When the signal is lost, the AR7000 sets the throttle to the preset bound position (very short PWM signal) and the PIC detects this low state and then switches off the HC221s output shutting off the PPM out. Turn the TX back on and the throttle jumps to a normal range and the PIC turns the HC221 output back on and the PPM is live again. I tested it with the MK as well and the MK started beeping (lost signal state) as soon as the PPM goes silent . On-Off-On-Off no problem. There is a second or two delay though (AR7000 obviously does not go into failsafe mode instantaneously, nor does the PIC code) RC-Cam also added some changeable offsets (for high/low PWM threshold settings) that would allow some one to tweak the failsafe threshold detect levels but I did not find I needed to do that I hacked it into my V2 board (I have been using my V1 [MK still not flying] and had not yet cabled my V2 one up so this gave me the motivation to go ahead and finish it up). I simply glued the programmed PIC on the PCB and white wired up the rest (RC_Cam suggested bending the CLR pins up on the HC221 to disconnect them from the rest of circuit and that worked great) Richard The Converter with PIC hacked in: TX On Scope picture: TX Off Scope picture:
  18. Great to hear about your success Arthur, amazing they hold up to that kind of wind. WOW!!!. If I get the chance, I will try the failsafe beta tomorrow and will report back. Hopefully I will get enough time to 'hack' it in and test it out. Richard
  19. You need to ask Mr. RC-Cam but I think the PIC is only for the lost signal control and not for the entire PWM-to-PPM conversion. I could be wrong though, it is just a guess. Mr. RC-Cam: I never asked any details about the new version. Is the new one all PIC bassed??? Richard
  20. Yea, I know what you mean with those diode arrays. Pick some up on my last order incase I was motivated to redo the layout and compress it. I was shocked at the size when I got them. My first layout was actually kind of inefficient space wise. I just finished a layout for your PanCam chip with pan, tilt, bypass, and center (like your last design) and have it squeezed down to about 15/16" X 7/16". Will try to make the PCB by this weekend. If you want I will start a new thread and post the results. If your current design is just double sided I could probably try and make one and try it with the DX7/AR7000. I will have to wire up a little SOIC socket so I can program those small PICs as well (need that for the Pan/Cam project also) Richard
  21. Very nice , do you need any help??? (looks like you used diod arrays, much better) Richard
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