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Attention: RC-CAM.com will be closing down August 2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This is being announced now (March 2021) so that everyone has time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.


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About Thorn3

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    RC-Cam Visitor
  • Birthday 12/28/1963

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    Mechanical Engineering.
    Model aircraft.
  1. Go to Range Video and take a look at their 500mW video/audio transmitter. Mine easily transmits well over 2000 meters. The receiver should use a good patch antenna. Here is the link: http://rangevideo.com/
  2. I use a Range video 500mW Tx with their dual Rx. I chose 900MHz for good penetration and to prevent interference with other systems, be they RC or other. With a patch antenna, I get about five miles. If you are only looking for a bit over 1 mile range, then a 250mW would be fine. It is better to have more power than you need to take interference into account from the environment, trees, buildings etc. I get crystal clear transmission with no break-ups at all. I run the Tx at main pack voltage of a LiPo (11.1 volts). Reducing the voltage will decrease the range. Allow airflow over the T
  3. I have not used the 633. I have only read its data sheet. I would assume that 3.5 volts would not damage it at all. If it is like most other modules. There is typically some flexibility. I know this is a DIY site. I only suggested the available RF transmitters, such as the Range Video Tx's, because RF can be complex if someone isn't well versed in it or feels uncomfortable building one. All video Tx's that I have used and read about, state that input voltage is a function of range. So, even my 500mW Tx will be greatly diminished in range, if I use a lower input voltage. Since I am
  4. Any pins showed to be wired external to the block diagram of the component, are grounded to a common ground plane, or trace, to the negative terminal of the supply. They are not internally grounded. Here is their text regarding channels: "Channel selection is four channel and default value is ch4 (not enable). Other channel can be selected by pulling low to enable". I understand this as meaning that channel 4 is default selected (enabled internally) and pulling any other channel pin to ground will select that channel. Switches such as PCB DIP switches would be nice, or jumpers so
  5. Certainly use a heat sink. I live in the desert, where it is hot much of the time. The difference between ambient air temperature and ESC's or video Tx's temperature, isn't much. Thermal transfer is more difficult as a result. In the picture, you can see a simple, GWS Texan foamie(1/12 scale, parkflier) outfitted with a pan and tilt camera and 500mW video Tx. You can see that my ESC is in the outer wall of the fuselage. The video Tx, is mounted behind the second seat, but also outside the fuselage. This is to allow the greatest amount of airflow over them. They are both heat-sunk of co
  6. If you are going to use a fixed, linear regulator, it could be in either an SMD or To220 case style. Either one, can be hard wired directly to the pins. Since it is a fixed regulator, you would not need a PCB for it, as no support components would be needed, unless you want to thread the power lines through something like a ferrite, toroidal core, to reduce power spikes. Filtering with .1 to .01mF capacitors would typically be needed if the power lines are 6" or longer. A simple heat sink on the regulator is all you need. No PCB. Just shrink wrap over the pin/wire connections. You would
  7. This does clear things up quite a bit regarding the use and environment of the vehicle. It does make engineering it much easier as well. I do believe that machining your own parts would be the most economical way to do things. Prototype machining or one-off design and machining costs a fortune, if you have to pay someone else to do it. In fact, I have my own machine shop for this very reason. I design and prototype various devices. If I had to pay another company to do it, it would be far beyond my budget. Paying a company to do it is only practical when such prototyping and development
  8. I doubt highly, that you will be able to build such a vehicle for less than $1,000. I did quite a bit of set work and EM model work for ILM some years ago. What you are asking, is a complex piece of machinery. First, it will have to have some weight to it, to reduce 'bouncing' and allow stabilizers to react more smoothly. You would also need to use a completely belt driven primary reduction drive, to reduce noise and vibration. Use belts and appropriate stacked pulley ratios to achieve the top end speed and torque that you require. Use a brushless out-runner motor to drive it. Encase th
  9. I also prefer the switch modes. All of my FPV aircraft use switch mode supplies. My camera uses 5 VDC, the mic with built in pre-amp uses up to 12 and so does the 500mW video Tx. So, my switch mode is used on the camera only. I use a separate battery for the camera system (camera, mic and Tx). It is an 800mAh LiPo, 3 cell (good for four flights). The aircraft uses a 1500mAh 3 cell. Funny that the two batteries weigh the same as one 2200mAh battery. A good balance. I don't have any lines of interference. Although I have seen this when people use the same battery used to power the othe
  10. Brett, I personally have not used or experimented with this module, so I do not know how sensitive its input voltage requirement is. I looked at the documentation for the Tx and it did not indicate a voltage input range. Due to this, I would assume they mean the input should be precisely 3.3 VDC. If this is truly the case, then you could easily use an LM317T, adjustable output, linear voltage regulator. Use a pot when setting up the regulator circuit and adjust to exactly 3.3 volts. Either use a dab of adhesive to hold the pot at value after adjustment, or replace the pot with a perm
  11. n3m1s1s: Thanks for liking my antenna and tripod design! This antenna was made as a 'one-off'. It was designed around available stock materials laying about. Now that the design is completed, it would be possible to make more. However, with my machines, which are manual machines, it would take some time to machine all of the parts, as it did with the first one. With the cost of new materials, worthy of being sold to someone, machining and fabrication time, shipping/import costs to the UK, etc... it would be much more financially feasible for you to make one there in the UK. I mak
  12. Picture of goggles. These are wired as explained in the first post, using a computer monitor cable. The input power lines are first run to the onboard power input jack, that is native to the goggles. This way, the input power from the new cable, goes to both the Rx board as well as the original input power jack. This way, the original input power jack can be used as an 'output' power jack, to power any accessories that may be added, such as head tracking devices etc. Presently, the input power is supplied via a 3000mAh NiMH battery pack, at 8,4 volts. Any input power can be used, up to
  13. I can only add two pictures at a time, so multiple replies will be used to show more images.
  14. Hello all, The 900MHz patch antenna is a common arrangement, as described in the RC-CAM site. The backing to the antenna ground plate is made from Acrylic left over from another project. It's goal is to offer the base rigidity to the ground plane and antenna in general, as well as offer a means to provide pivot and angle adjustment. The legs are made from .625" ID electrical conduit. Bronze sleeve bearings were placed into the ends, to allow the leg extension rods to move in and out smoothly and without slop. The leg extensions are unfortunately low quality steel, .500" rod
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