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Attention: RC-CAM.com will be closing down August 2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This is being announced now (March 2021) so that everyone has time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.


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Everything posted by D4RK1

  1. ah... didn´t know that.. hmm..
  2. hm.. since you seem to be quite capable with electronics, maybe you could build something, using a replacement screen for mobile phones or Ipods? The screen of my Xperia X1 has 800x480 px.. just bought a replacement for 27 Euros. Sry if this is nonsense, but my electronic capabilities are quite limited and seeing what you usually do i tend to think there´s nothing you guys can´t do ^^ Jens
  3. Hi, this is the connector that came with my SN 555 camera from Hobbywireless. I would like to get some more but at hobbywireless the cables are already fitted with plugs i don´t need and the fitting of these useless plugs is what makes a simple cable quite expensive. So i am hoping to get the plugs elsewhere and do the soldering myself. Here are some pictures : Thx, Jens
  4. The earlier pictures show another Twinstar. He uses 900 Mhz for video so he can put the antenna everywhere he chooses (or thinks best). Me, i am using 2,4 Ghz so need to have the Tx where the Antenna is. Only the posts after #27 show my Twinstar (so far ^^). Dunno if that is important to know but i will be using 40 Mhz for RC...
  5. from what i have read so far "as far away as possible" is always good but in most cases some inches seem to be enough. So i hope the distance in my proposed distribution is enough. Dunno if the video tx shouldn´t be close to the battery but Terry said he puts his Tx in front which almost always means close to the battery. Putting the tx way back means really long cables or another battery back there which in either case has its own hazards. In both instances weight is of some concern and long cables sometimes add their own problems with RF glitches. Guess after hearing what the more experie
  6. hm.. reread the previous posts and it got me thinking about the "planes"... my RC Rx and Video Tx (guess it´s the antennas that matter) are on the same plane in my current Distribution. Maybe i should position the RC Rx on the upper side with the antenna going on top of the fuselage. Problem there is that this puts the Rx close to the ESCs which is usually also not too good an idea. Could go back a bit to avoid that..
  7. have been thinking about lighter nuts myself but haven´t found anything yet. Those nuts you proposed look light, but i think they might a) wear down the threads of the nylon screws after a while and will be a bitch to position in more or less exactly a 90° angle. Would be nice to have similar nuts made of Nylon or plastic though. Normal nylon hex nuts i have seen somewhere.. but i don´t think those will be of much use. So here´s what i have been thinking about positioning the electronics : ideas, critics?
  8. As to using one ESC for two Brushless Motors, it has been known to work ok occasionally but as far as i have heard and seen there are often problems. A fellow modeler i know tried that and he said that in 1 instance out of 20 (which is good, usually it is worse, if it even works) one motor failed to start on throttling up. In normal circumstances you just pull the throttle back and try again but with all that expensive FPV stuff on board i don´t think it is worth the risk to try. The weight savings aren´t that big.. maybe 10-20g i guess since you need to use a bigger ESC when driving two motor
  9. These are my efforts so far to make the Twinstar easily possible to disassemble: for the screws i glued in some plywood pieces to keep them from being pulled through the foam under duress. For the nuts holding the tail i did more or less the same, for the nuts holding the halves of the fuse together i cut out pieces of foam, pierced the foam, put in the nut and glued it back in place.
  10. well i guess you are using a ruber duck antenna? Mine is just a small wire so i guess there´s no way for me to put the TX sideways and point the antenna down.. Since the TX is very small it might be possible to carve out a hole in the side of the nose which would allow the TX to be mounted downward as well and the antenna sticking in the foam downward too.. do you think the foam would block the signal?
  11. i was thinking about putting the tx directly behind the wing, antenna pointing up... is there any length limitation about the wires between TX and camera? On the other hand... ESCs will be somewhere under the wing too... so maybe thats not the best location... I´ve got 2 txs i can use... the third is 200mW which makes it illegal around here http://www.rangevideo.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_22&products_id=91 <-- this one is 5V and my camera is this : http://hobbywireless.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=12 so i think it w
  12. well maybe after i´ve had some experience with the TS II and the FPV stuff it won´t be necessary to open it up again, but since i got 3 different TXs so far and no idea which one will work best i thought it might be a good idea to have it as versatile as possible Have you got any tipps about putting the TX and antenna in, Terry? I see u are in the UK so i guess if you are FPVing you are stuck with the same guidelines as i am.. (almost the same). Jens
  13. Hi... got a Twinstar for christmas (after strongly suggesting it to my wife). It will too be more or less exclusively used for FPV and other photo and video purposes. I am thinking about making it possible to disassemble the two halves of the fuselage for some future changes. 2-4 Nylon screws and some tape should do the trick.. Since i am in Germany i need to stick to 2,4 Ghz for Video and can´t completely use your example for my setup. I´ve got zilch experience in FPV but after reading your Build Blog here i appreciate the idea of moving the video transmitter away from the rest of the RC
  14. hm.. just tried it and the system crashed again. But i did some searching on my own and found another freeware program "Debut Video Capture Software" which seems to be working quite well, even though there is considerable timeshift while recording. But that can´t be helped i guess and isn´t too inconvenient since i won´t be using the netbook for the actual flying, just for recording. Can´t wait to get my stuff Thx again =)
  15. so far i´ve been trying to use my Laptop or Netbook for Video recording, but that hasn´t worked too well for me. I tried Virtual Dub and Movie Maker and both worked, but recording and watching seemed to be too much. Virtual Dub even crashed the machines quite often. Both the Laptop and the Netbook aren´t too powerful, the Laptop has a Pentium 4 Mobile CPU (1,8 Ghz and 2,0 Ghz (both, dunno why^^) and 512MB RAM, working with Windows XP, while the Netbook has an Atom N270 1,6Ghz with 1 GB of RAM. I have been using a Digitus 70820 USB Video Grabber to connect to the RX. But i can´t believe a
  16. Hi i´d like to have a good but also cheap (as possible, but should give good quality too) video recording device for FPV. What would be a good choice? btw. i am not really sure if this is the correct place for that topic but didn´t find a better one.
  17. I bought that set some time ago and did some dry runs at home, worked quite ok but never got around to using it in a plane. Since the connectors and cables were kind of bulky, i decided to cut them and use my own. What i didn´t realize was that the working current of the camera is less than 9V, there is a gizmo hidden in the cable which adjusts the voltage to suit the camera.. So what happened .. i fried the cam. Bought a really cheap CMOS cam on ebay to keep testing. After that, i got it in working order again but never got around to use it. Had enough on my mind learning to fly first ^^ Ye
  18. ah... thx for the input Well, then it shall be a 8dbi Patch
  19. Hi, although i have been interested in FPV for some time now.. today i made my first actual fpv-flight. Well, actually i just recorded the flight. Everthing went well, except that the camera i got is a very poor one. I am thinking about upgrading my stuff and first of all i will purchase a better camera and a better rx-antenna. The camera is quite simple to choose i think, but the antenna gives me some trouble. I was looking around and found a 8dbi patch antenna and a 9dbi whip antenna. I am new to this so i would think the 9dbi whip should be better since its got a better gain and receive
  20. hm.. i´ve got a related problem.. i am thinking about using a ubec for my ES, but so far i don´t understand how it is best incorporated in the current hardware... Afaik the UBEC is also connected to the main power source (lipo) ... right? The red cable of the BEC has to be severed (as mentioned above)... so far so good.. How do i connect both the ESC and the UBEC to the Lipo? I guess i could rig something but i´d like to know if theres an elegant option... Thx in advance
  21. hm.. i dont understand... do i plug both the UBEC and the ESC to one and the same Power source? I did try using one power source for both the AV stuff and the flight stuff and ended up having problems with picture glitches under throttle... I can only see a security bonus using the ubec, since the receiver will work even if the ESC blows.. but how am i able to use this for my AV stuff and save weight? The ubec output is only 6V and my camera needs 12V (+- 10%) and the receiver 9- 12V.
  22. Thx for the info, ive got several 3s Lipos, might it be possible to use them with the TME? i already got an easystar and i am quite able in flying in it so far.. but still not enough to dare flying a wooden plane yet =) The last few "incidents" seemed to be more or less caused by mechanical/electric problems than human error.. thats an improvement i guess ^^ First i hab problems with Tamiya standard plugs i used to connect the Lipo with ESC.. they got hot and lost connection somehow which caused the ESC to loose power and after that the only way my ES went was down I am using 4mm Gold
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