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About Playboysenior

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    RC-Cam Visitor
  1. Strikes me that this thread is missing some basic points about aeroplanes. To make a turn an aeroplane has to bank and yaw. At the same time. If you look at the pure effects of controls then ailerons control bank whilst rudder controls yaw. And if you put some bank on with the ailerons the plane just flies straight with one wing down. Or if you put some rudder on then the the plane flies straight, skidding (nose offset to one side). The secondary effects of the controls are interesting. In simple terms if you put aileron on and create bank, then generally the plane will also start to sideslip, and this sideslip will (because of the fin at the rear of the plane) result in yaw. And you will get a turn. Alternatively, if you put rudder on and create yaw, in simple terms this speeds up the outside wing and slows the inside wing, creating more lift on one/less on the other, which gives bank. So you also get a turn effect. But both of these secondary effects are dependant on the aircraft design. Generally in model aircraft we either go with: a: a dihedral wing (more stable) and rudder control. When the rudder is used to yaw the plane the dihedral ensures that roll is also created. (Wing Dragon, EasyStar etc.) b: a flat wing (less stable) and ailerons. Turns are controlled by banking and yanking. (The ailerons are used to bank the plane and then pitch is used to change direction.) (Twinstar 1) So for simple to control, self-stabilising flight (without any fancy electronic gizmos) go for a high wing (pendulum stability) dihedral wing, rudder and elevator controlled machine. Quiet a few years back I had a Ben Buckle Quaker Flash. Just after take off, when I had just started to level off, throttle back and start a gentle turn, the receiver battery pack fell out of the plane (don't ask). The plane carried on flying in large gentle climbing circles for the next forty minutes, gradually drifting off downwind - and then landed itself undamaged in a field. There are lots of designs out there that are really radio assisted free flight models: They'll fly themselve in a very smooth stable manner - and you only have to give them an occasional steer in the chosen direction. Super Sixty, Playboy Senior(!) etc. I'm sure they'd make excellent FPV platforms. But you'll have learn the ancient skills of balsa bashing! One last point: if you want altitude hold then you should wire that to the motor..... the elevators govern speed.
  2. I want to be able to swap the Tx out of my plane and pop in an alternative Tx. So I was looking for a simple lightweight connector plug system. Given that I don't use audio - would using servo leads and connectors be sensible? Or is having such connectors in the middle of cable runs guaranteed to generate some nasty interference side effects? Cheers
  3. I'd be interested to know the reply to Luke's question - but I can't find an earlier reply from W3FJW-Ron Cheers
  4. Hi Guys I've had a good play as per the suggestions. The good news is that the horizontal lines are definitely vibration and only occur with the camera/tx assembly in the mount. The camera mount is a simple alloy plate with a hole in it that the camera lens body fits tightly into. My next move will be to try and source some thin rubber/foam servo tape (but thinner) type material to line the alloy mount with, to see if the issue is metal to metal movement between the camera and the mount. Cheers
  5. Hi Guys The camera Tx is a board, not in a tin can, and is heatshrink attached to the back of the camera. The camera is on a pan and tilt. The Tx can only move/vibrate if the camera is moving/vibrating - which is possible given the pan and tilt mounting. There is no microphone. The motor ESC is in the plane fuselage, more or less vertically under the rear portion of the wing. 9" from camera/tx. The plane's rx is on the floor of the fuselage, at the back of the cockpit opening. So approximately 3.5" vertically under the camera/tx. For ease of connection/disconnection I run the main battery cables over the canopy base/camera mount platform, where they connect with Deans plugs. So this main power cable is 1.75" from the camera tx. The main power cable is twisted. Given the 'built in' location of my ESC, swapping to a brushless motor would involve major surgery. I am more than happy with the climb performance I get with the stock motor. Are your suggestions about swapping the motor for a brushless based on better performance - or on the brushed motor being the likely source of the horizontal lines? (I wouldn't do the surgery to increase the performance - but I would have to if it would get rid of those pesky lines.) Any more thoughts would be most appreciated! Cheers
  6. Hi Guys I've got the dreaded horizontal lines on the video when using full power on my motor. The camera and tx both run off a dedicated 2s lipo. Completely separate to the motor. Plane is an EasyStar on the stock brushed motor which has three little capacitors attached. Tx is 10mW 2.4GHz attached to the back of the camera. The lines only seem to appear when on full power. They are not there when throttled back for cruising flight. Any suggestions on how to cure this would be most appreciated. Cheers.
  7. Hi Guys Thanks for the info. I did some trials the other day - ground to ground. With a standard omni directional aerial I was surprised to find that I had a good picture at 400 metres. With an 8dbi patch antenna the picture was slightly better. Aiming the antenna at 45 degrees to one side hardly made any difference. At 90 degrees the picture was poor - but I could still have orientated a model. 180 degrees was unusable. At all angles, putting the patch on its side seriously reduced the picture quality (polarisation is important). I then moved to 150 metres. At this distance I had a 'usable' picture even with the patch antenna at 180 degrees. Overall I was happily surprised by these results.
  8. Hi Guys I’ve realised that there are big gaps in my knowledge on aerials – so please excuse the dumbness of these questions... I’m on 2.4GHz and have a 10mw transmitter on the camera on the airplane, with the aerial mounted vertical. I’ve been using the little ‘twig’ omni directional aerial that comes with the Chinese rx. I also have an 8db patch antenna. I’ve tended to use the patch for when I know I’ll mainly be flying in a certain direction and the twig for buzzing around the field. But I do get plenty of outages and at one field I seem to always get the effect that I am looking through a gauze filter. I had understood that the patch antenna had to be mounted vertically to keep ‘in polarity’ with the aircraft antenna – but I notice in photos and vids that many folks have them mounted at a 45 degree angle. Which is correct? If it works ok having a patch antenna at 45 degrees, then is it also ok to have an omni directional aerial at 45 degrees. I don’t suppose that it’s going to pick up much from the ground behind it, but on the other side it is covering the entire sky....? I’m guessing that there is a deep flaw in that thinking? Also, looking on the Hyperlink site, I’ve found some omni directional aerials that don’t have the big dead spot vertically above them. Would they be winners? What about if tilted back at 30 degrees? http://www.hyperlinktech.com/web/pdf/hg2407mgu.pdf (The pictures are on the hyperlink page at the bottom) http://www.hyperlinktech.com/web/re05u.php I tend to prefer to fly my fpv around my base field, rather than out into the middle distance, hence my desire to find an aerial that is going to work well with the plane overhead and behind as well as in front. Maybe I need to change my flying style? Would a patch aerial flat on its back work? I have just ordered an Oracle diversity receiver unit. I had thought to have a patch aerial on one rx and an omni on the other. Is there an optimal set up? Two patch aerials pointing 40 degrees apart, one 25 degrees back from vertical, the other 40 degrees back from vertical? Any thought or tips would be most appreciated.
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