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IA-Flyer

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About IA-Flyer

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    RC-Cam Visitor
  • Birthday 01/06/1960

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    http://www.rcsites.net/ia-flyer/
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  • Location
    Western Iowa
  1. My ImmersionRC RF power meter came in back in february. I would have posted about it sooner but I haven't came out of my work shop since. I can't believe everyone doesn't have one of these. It's a real eye opener. I've found a bad antenna instantly, before blowing the vid tx. Found the 4 or 5 highest power (ham legal) frequencies out of 32 without testing them one at a time in the air. Found the best antenna combo and the difference between removing the plastic covers on 5.8gHz clovers and leaving them on. Tested the power output and found the most powerful channels in a ebay 200mW mini
  2. Thank you. I'll be looking forward to the review.
  3. "1. Remove the existing RF module from the R/C Tx and remotely mount it (with antenna) on top of your car's roof." Thanks! Thats exactly the option I was looking for. I should have thought about in the beginning but didn't. I even have a TX-Ready module that connects to the pins. Brain lock....... I'm thinking of using a 10 foot USB2 cable to the module and connecting the woven outer shield to the TX ground only, leaving the other end open. I'll use one of the inner wires for ground on both ends and share it with a regulated battery ground to power just the module. Thoughts?
  4. First things first. I'm delighted you're still around Mr. RC-Cam! It's been quite a while since I was flying around using a RadioShack (X10 based ) video sender using high gain RX antenna. I have a new small project I could use some advice with. Due to the extreme cold and some health issues, I would like to remote mount my control transmitter antenna on the roof of my car. It's a HiTec Aurora 9, 2.4GHZ using a module with a IPX connector on the modules board. I'm not looking for a range increase, or decrease. I renewed my HAM license a couple of months ago. I've ordered in the
  5. With only a 200-yard range requirement you shouldn’t have much trouble finding something that will work. The BlackWidowAV.com stuff is great it’s very light weight and requires a HAM license but the only thing you would need to solder are the wires to the camera and battery. You may not even need to do that, some of his systems come with an RCA adaptor for the video and audio transmitter. Another option is (after all you’re on the RC-CAM web site!), One of the RC-CAM X-Cam conversions. I flew a Radio Shack video sender for a year that was nothing but a X-Cam and it worked great at the r
  6. That is strange, I’ve never had a problem with interference or reduced range with my 600 or 1-watt BWAV systems. My 600mW is probably about 1.5 inches from the (Futaba Dual conversion) receiver, and even with the R/C transmitter off I can switch the video system on and off with out even a slight servo twitch. Good luck and let us know what you find. Jim
  7. I’ll guess something totally different. I wouldn't use that mounting style for the 600mW system. I mount the ones I have by silicone gluing the TX base to a piece of light-ply and then securing the light ply mount to the plane. You don’t want any pressure on the top cover. There is a trimmer pot on the circuit board that is flush with the top cover, some stick above the top cover. My first 600 was soldered off enough that the top cover wouldn’t even snap in place if the board was flexed up to meet the solder joint. The tie-wraps your using may be causing a problem.
  8. I’m still working on the switch but thought I’d post a photo and short video comparing the camera views. Side CAM Test.zip (5.1 megs)
  9. I get about a 1-second delay while the camera warms up, it’s annoying but I’ll probably have to live with it for now. I was just trying to minimize the small servo twitch I get when the power cycles. It’s pretty much the same as when you first turn the radio receiver on with the transmitter off. I guess I could rig up a rotary switch like I saw in one of your project pictures, and let it select camera and power. I hate to leave power on constantly because I’m using 3 separate cameras. Normal wide front view, and side view 50 and 17-degree lens cameras, I’m worried the power drain would be
  10. Just for fun I tried connecting the ground and video signals together and just switching the power between cameras. It works but the FM receiver with the TX off is detecting some interference when I switch the power. What would be the best way to control the noise generated from the switch? It would probably never be a problem with the transmitter on but I would like to eliminate it as much as possible. Should I put a cap between each camera power post on the switch to the common ground? Thanks! Jim
  11. Isn’t that article like the NRA president telling you to turn in your guns before the government asks for them? I guess Dave needs to call his buddy Maynard Hill and tell him not to do anything unusual anymore.
  12. Thanks, Sounds like it would be best to leave both cameras hot and switch the signal for now. The servo board / relay sounds good, I’ll probably go that way in the end to save some space and weight. Yes, I was bummed that I missed out on that one! I was hoping someday you would have the partial-kit available again. Regards, Jim
  13. Thanks Mark, YES, I’m very interested! Let me know when they come in. Jim
  14. I need to select between two cameras (wide & zoom lens) for a flight coming up shortly. Unfortunately the RC-CAM switch circuit boards were gone by the time I heard about the project. What would be the easiest way to accomplish the task with out harming the video system? I have some lever switches that could select between the composite signals from the cameras using a servo, but I don’t want to hurt anything so I haven’t tried it yet. Also, would it be possible to connect the video composite and ground wires from the two cameras to the transmitter and just power on the camera I want
  15. Nice video Mr. RC-CAM! This is totally off the topic of making an Artificial Horizon, your video indicators have me excited but for a different purpose. How hard would it be to connect the pilot view camera indicators you use to monitor 2 servos from a second (camera operator) receiver? They would let the pilot know what direction to fly when the tilt-pan camera operator says “hey, I want to look at this”.
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