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Everything posted by headhunter23

  1. Crappy, did not know that... thought just running the right voltage was all ya needed. Thanks, will look into it and try to understand what the other posts had mentioned then.
  2. Wow, just slightly above my head the last few posts. So just to confirm, that power supply hooked onto the scooter, should convert 12v to 16v so that the LEDs can run. But I would still need to have a resistor in series right Kilrah? I'm hoping to run both LEDs on at the same time and then lights off... so then should I run each LED as a separate circuit or put both LEDs in series with whatever resistor value is required? Sorry Xygax, I totally didn't understand your reply, just a bit too technical(or at least the terms used) for me .
  3. Ah found one in my price range, btw IBM laptop dc power supplies can do 16v, 4.5a, $40 bucks. Pita.
  4. Ummm... I'm buying the LED itself and have to make everything else to get it to work. I just need to slap heat sink and make housing for scooter to pop it on, plus get a lens to focus the light as the viewing angle is high at 140 degrees. Just planning it out at this point, no it doesn't have a constant source, that's what I'm trying to figure out. I wished it could connect directly to batt but need a little more voltage. There are LED drivers which can connect to a source and then up it to 16v but they are expensive, I was just curious if there was another way. These are the 30W LED'
  5. Oh your thinking of an electric scooter, nah i picked up an 98 50cc model from a buddy for 500 bucks, got her all together but hate the halogen lighting. So was thinking put less strain and go LED. I think the batt is actually 12.5v not exactly sure how many volts it is running, I know it's not 13.5-14v like a car though, apparently these batteries don't like running like that. What do you think?
  6. Hello, back again, been searching on how to power a 30W LED with a 12v power source, so far all options are kind of expensive. I'm curious as to whether there is a cheaper way to power em? The source is 12vdc but the voltage required for the LED is 15-18vdc. A simple transformer? Light would be a good option, I"m putting 2 o these on a scooter. Ideas?
  7. Wow, these are tiny! M/C must mean board mount! Like these have got to be 2.5mm x 3mm! With 8 connections! Think I might try ordering again(bigger version), I'm sure I can soldier these but... no drinking i guess while doing so! Will need to soldier just to get these to plug into programmer! Thanks for help, if ya know which version are the larger more manageable ones are, lemme know(and others). Ivan.
  8. Great! Ummm... do u know what product code is the chips im looking for? I got to the links above but not sure which chips are required or are they all the same?
  9. Really sorry for sounding like a noob , but I am in terms of buying chips and programming, so if you guys don't mind I need a little more help buying... Here is the bitswitch project, am buying 10 o each microcontrollors... Mr rc-cam had suggested going with the 8 pin but will do both just in case and they're cheap enuff anyways. here's the project page: http://www.rc-cam.com/bitsw.htm Here's the list for the pic10f202 https://www.microchipdirect.com/ProductDetails.aspx?Catalog=BuyMicrochip&Category=PIC10F202&mid=1&treeid=1 And which o these options is the other pic10F2
  10. ah.. and probably sony's new HD... geez can't remember the model but it's like 30g or so... would fit on ur current plane i think. It's new but spensive, i think around 200 bucks.
  11. Umm... few suggestions. I would go with another plane. Try multiplex easyglider(if you still want prop on top, you can make a mount and still do so like plenty of others), this will have a much better wing loading than that plane allowing for slower flight and also takes real weight(I'm not sure I would stick 200g on that plane, have you tried it? I think it would probably require a stronger motorif you attempted so) There's a couple other nice foam planes good for load, multiplex twinstar etc. I like the foam because it's mucho safer, does the job and repairing even extreme breaks take
  12. Hellooo going to buy a pic programmer to make a few of RcCam's bit switch chips. Question is where and what type should I get? I can probably get the writer part figured out but no idea which/where to buy. Also I'm looking for something inexpensive. I had asked RcCam previously, he suggested adding a thread to the forum for other newbies like me. I'm just looking to make a nice light switch to go from one camera to another/or lights on or off. The third style chip I would like to make is one that uses the three position switch on my specktrum to have camera straight ahead,
  13. I've cracked my dx7 open a few times and have actually had to repair the one switch. I think if you want to go to a pot, you would have to do some checking and digging before you slice into the chip or after it... (there seems to be a chip for each switch, I'm assuming as you close and open the switch that this converts it to the proper voltage that the guts o the unit sees.
  14. Mmmmm... rccam, was hoping to make camera a cube much like a few have done with fx35. Also yea I know this may bugger it up if not done correctly, thing is going on a funjet, having the one side way out would probably affect things in the air. Stoopid piece... whole camera is brilliant except for this top piece, LS70 had same issue but i don't think that one had multi layers. Edit point... crud, looking again, spent 20min yesterday flipping it back and forth trying to find a section that isn't on the top nor the bottom... found one. So it is multilayered Will need to think on th
  15. So got a panasonic fx100, already lightened and striped for rc airplane. Except for this part. I almost cut, but decided to have a few o you geniuses take a look and lemme know if where I'm going to cut is ok or I should cut somewhere else. Let it be known that this could actually be a multi layer board(fx35? Can't quite remember), in which I've seen pics that there are as many as 15 extremely small connections to be made! Sooo... here's to hoping that's not the case! Link is off site to home server and big pics. So beware images are 1.3-1.4mb a piece. Any help would be apprec
  16. Rather than rewrite whole add... I hope you don't mind mr rc-cam, just putting link to ad. Thanks in advance if ok. fs is 2.4ghz 10mw 2.4gram rx/tx combo off of rangevideo.com (high quality, compared to ebay stuff) http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread....67#post12555321
  17. Hmmm thanks for that timbit. I had read that jetpilot actually suggests having the tx shoot out the back horizontally so when the signal degrades, he turns the plane and is ok again. That a bad idea? I guess one more quick question... I have dx7 and some of the recievers have satillites, putting one horizontal is not worth the effort? Putting them all vertical is the way to go? Ivan.
  18. mmm ron did quick search, either search function isn't working or something else. Anyways just quickly what was the best antenna orientation. vertical down, horizontal back vertical up for tx? Thanks in advance. Ivan.
  19. Hey found something in my email today, similar to rc-cam's landastic project that slows down pan/tilt/retract. This one is more expensive I'm sure than rc-cam's way. Anyways here she is... http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/u...?idProduct=8863 Could work with pan and tilt too I'm assuming.
  20. Umm... 2 servo's and a good remote?
  21. Hey mr rc-cam, are there any issues to doing this? http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1021273 Seems to work...
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