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Attention: RC-CAM.com will be closing down August 2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This is being announced now (March 2021) so that everyone has time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.


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About Xelax

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    RC-Cam Visitor

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    London UK
  1. One other thing..........wall warts can give you problems here. Try using a battery for power supply to see if it helps, much smoother!
  2. Hi, Haven't used them but you could look at http://www.batchpcb.com/ The service is part of Sparkfun - unfortunately US based but prices seem OK....
  3. Hi Jorge, I've got quite a lot to say on this....... I've been developing my own design of flying camera / payload platform for two years now - we are test flying now and we hope to be onsale in about 2 months, although from what you say, I'm not sure our platform would be suitable for you. However, I have over the couple of years researched and investigated all options for this kind of machine. I have studied and been in contact with almost all manufacturers of complete systems and componenets appropriate to these kind of applications from countries all over the world including USA, Can
  4. Personally I'd use HiTek digital servos - what kind depends on the camera mount and the weight of camera. Ideally you should also convert them to use toothed belt rather than gears as the action is smoother. Futaba gyros work well out of the box - GY 401 single axis or possibly GY 352 dual axis - but if you're really serious I'd recommend CSM SL 720 gyros. They are highly programmable with an easy to use Windows interface and you can set them up just the way yoiu want them. Cheapest place for them is probably www.aerialsystems.biz (UK based) Good luck!
  5. Hi, Don't know if you are aware of the MyVu 'Shades' glasses (they have the screen angled down so you can look over the screen and see whats going on around you - perfect for flying!!) [url="http://www.myvu.com/Shades.html" They make two versions, one is for iPod and on is called the 'universal' and allows standard video to be connected. The reason I mention this is I think the only difference is an adapter lead that plugs into the iPod input and has standard phono inputs for video and audio. If this is the case, you may well find it will work for your glasses. There's a customer hel
  6. I now realise what I've been doing wrong - I was connecting the cap between the signal and the ground as you usually would, but I now see that the cap is being used differently and has the signal going through it. How does this occur? I was led to believe a cap has no direct through connection and yet the signal seems to travel through it OK...... Also, can you explain the role it plays? The video seems fine without it.......Confusing!!! Any more info much appreciated - I really need to understand the what's, why's and how's to progress here........ THANX AGAIN!!
  7. Hi Mr RC Cam, Just to let you know my system now works!! The problem was (unsurprisingly) my lack of knowlege of electronics. I had fitted a 470 uf cap to the video output and this was preventing it working. as soon as I removed it, it worked fine. The caps are on the circuit diagram though, so I assume I'm not understanding something here. Is this a different type of cap that needs to be used? If so, how can you tell as the icon used is the same as other caps? Confusing, but you live and learn! Thanks for all the help!
  8. BRILLIANT thank you - exactly what I needed to know! Back to testing.........
  9. REALLY SORRY Mr RC Cam! Forgot to mention, this is my AWM 634 Rx I'm talking about (I can be very dumb at times!)- as far as I know the Tx is now working! I should also mention that when the Rx was briefly working and connected to the AV input on the TV I got snow (until the Tx was turned on), but now when its connected I just get the blank black AV stanby screen, yet as I say there is voltage at the video out..... Any thoughts?
  10. OK - thought I had this sussed.........! My setup worked yesterday and today I rebuilt it to a more compact layout and guess what - it doesn't work yet all the reading seem OK. I've rebuilt it twice now and gone over and over it but still no pic..... Here's what I'm reading: V In : 4.99V Bypass: 3.61V Ch Select pins: 1.1V Audio Outs: 2.45V (nothing connected - not even the caps) Video Out: 3.52V (nothing connected - 470uf 35v in place) 2.45V (TV connected) 1.63V (Tx on & TV Connected)
  11. Just to let you know..... Joined across to the bypass pin and finally got some temperature in the module but no picture. Then decided to build a new board with new module, which tested up fine straight away, but still no picture. Tested over my Rx board and finally found a dodgy earth and I'm away!!! Absolutely perfect, clean A1 video !! (am not using sound at this time) - am going to rebuild the damaged Tx module circuit now I know the Rx is fine to see if the 3.3v to bypass pin is a valid fix - will let you know>>>> Can't thank you all enough - would never have got th
  12. Quite possible I've damaged it, the chips been in and out a couple of times. Before I start my new board, I'll try direct connect of 3.3v to pin 9 - fingers crossed! Can anyone tell me why the modules are made with these connections (they're so awkward) - are they designed for a specific installation method and if so, what is it? Thanks again - will let you know how I get on!
  13. I think you're probably right - my new chip arrived this morning and I'm going to start again with the board assembly - I've got to include things like heatsink and I'm sure I can get a more efficient and smaller layout. This time I will take extra care over it and make certain of eveything step by step! A question, is my choice of components OK? I notice people talking about tantalum caps and things, am I OK with elctrolytics? Also, connecting the commons either side of the rf out to the sma was really hard, is there a trick or good technique to this? Thanks for your help and advice
  14. Took the module and header posts off the board and checked all connections and they're all OK - replaced it and still nothing. Guess that means the module has had it.........? Are these really that easy to damage? Any extra precautions I can take next time? Thanks again for all the help!!
  15. Thanks and no I don't have another - looks like I'll be ordering one tomorrow! I've no idea why it may be damaged - this is its first installation, it hasn't been sent any excessive voltages etc, its taken some heat during soldering but that can't be avoided..... Any ideas or advice on keeping these things alive much appreciated !! Any really obvious do's and don'ts ? Being new to this, I need all the info I can get - I can't afford to keep breaking them...... Thanks again for all the help!!
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