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tkilloren

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Everything posted by tkilloren

  1. Yes, DC is intuitive, RF is whacky. Anyway, the antenna works great. Here's a look at what's inside the box..... The top view shows the basic configuration. The ground plane consists of a pcb that is fully plated on the bottom side. The bottom is self explanatory. This board measures 3" square. A plastic post passes through the large center hole, which also captures the driven element and holds it fixed. The element spacing is approx. 15mm, or 1/8th wave at 2.44 (I think that's right?) This view shows the grounding trace that connects to "ground" via a plated thru
  2. I took apart one of the popular Hyperlink 2.4, 8dbi patch antennas to see if the elements (without the case) would fit into my own project enclosure, and to also swap the coax pigtail to a direct pcb SMA connection. I noticed that the driven element is dead shorted (intentionally) to the ground plane via a single trace that connects to a plated thru hole on the metalized pcb ground plane. These are air dielectric designs, very similar to the RC-Cam project "GP Patch", except with a larger spacing between elements. How can it work with the elements shorted together? Thanks, Tom
  3. I played around with something very similar awhile back. I was using one of the smaller Sony camcorders, mounted inside the Sony underwater enclosure, into which I crammed my Blackwidow 200mw 2.44 Tx and battery. My hopes were to be able to receive the video signal on my home brew handheld camera controller/2.44Rx with video monitor, or video glasses. My original plan was to be able to lower the camera into the water using a telescoping "mast" and be able to view the bottom of my boat while standing on deck. As it turned out, the video signal was extinguished after the camera had been l
  4. Can you elaborate on what kind of images you are trying to capture? Perhaps a tethered balloon would suit your purpose? This would allow you much more payload, which might now include a pan/tilt system to aim the camera. Your camera options would also increase exponentially as compared to fixed wing aircraft. Just a thought, Tom
  5. I'm just about all rigged to try it out. I'll be down at the boat over the weekend ........ stay, uhm, tuned! Tom
  6. I am building an underwater camera inspection system for use aboard my boat. I am using the Blackwidow 200 mW Tx/Rx combo. I can hard wire the Tx to the Rx, but I am wondering if I can go wireless, as that would eliminate the need to punch a hole in my watertight camera enclosure (polycarbonate). The Tx would be mounted inside the enclosure, using the short whip antenna that comes with the system, also inside the case. The signal would need to propogate through 6 to 10 feet of water. Anyone have any guesses as to whether I will receive a useable signal at the Rx? Thanks! Tom Killoren
  7. Just found this thread....sorry for coming to class late! As a newbie, I can't offer much, except to other newbies, many of whom are not in the "build-it-yourself" mode. There have been many posts from newbies asking about the best antenna combinations, and "....where can I buy one?" I just started building stuff, and I can say that there is nothing more satisfying than building something yourself.....that actually works! Mr. RC Cam helped me along the way, I might add. I am running a Part 15, 1mW (probably less) Tx with a 1/4 wave Ground Plane "spider" antenna. My Rx uses a 13db patch tha
  8. It works great! Thank You so much! And with the Airtronics retract servo, I'm getting just over 200 degrees of pan angle.....silky smooth. I suspected it was my fuse settings. I am using a "Genius NSP" (Chinese) programmer, and the instructions are in pigeon English! I will focus on the fuse settings and see if I can make it work. Tom
  9. Thanks guys! I hadn't seen that primer on Vregs before....that is very helpful. Tom
  10. My surface based pan/Tilt/camera/cctv combo is a power management nightmare. The 75Mhz Rx requires 4.8V, the camera requires 7.2V, and the CCTV Tx requires 12V. Until now, I have been using the camera's on board battery pack to power the camera, but this has proven to be the "weak link" in the system. I have been using a 12V battery pack and a step down voltage regultaor to get the 4.8V. This works just fine, but now I would like the camera to draw power from the main battery source. I have ordered a 7.2V 3300mAh battery pack as the main supply. I will use a step-up voltage regulator to get
  11. After looking at most (not all) of the pin diagrams for the various projects, I have come up with this layout that might qualify as a "universal" project PWB. It would allow the addition of chip type passive devices (resistor, capacitors, transistors), and give anyone, novice or pro, a big headstart, with mininal jumpers required. The ceramic substrate will be .06" thick. ALL pinouts will be shorted to the ground plane on the backside of the carrier, including pin #1. Using a small file, or even a Dremmel tool, the user can "open" the connection to any individual pin, by removing the metal c
  12. This will take a few weeks to complete. In the meantime, if you could help me select an appropriate chip capacitor from Mouser? Their selection is a bit overwhelming.....I want to make sure to buy the right one. Also, I will incorporate the pads on the ceramic to accomodate the addition of chip resistors, if desired. Thanks! Tom
  13. I am working under conditions unto which I am not accustomed....that being, having two unknown entities, the PIC and the wiring board. As you have seen, my soldering skills are amateurish. That's something that I can fix. I have gained my livelihood for 35 years making microwave circuits on alumina ceramic. I have laid out a circuit design that I hope you might confirm is correct for the PanCam. I own the company, and this will be a welcomed diversion from my otherwise, day to day tasks. This circuit board will be built on alumina. It will be metalized with a MIL-STD type thin film metal s
  14. Okay. I have included a link to a photo hosting site that shows my wiring board. Don't laugh! On the topside image, the wires coming in from the left are from the Rx. That side is self explanatory. In the bottom view, pin #1 is at the upper left. I know, the solder looks very close, but I have probed the board and there are no shorts. I have not defluxed, however, and I'm wondering if the flux could be conductive under power, especially where the gap between some pins is very close.? Power comes in to #1 and then goes directly out to the servo. Pin #8 is on the lower left. Ground comes
  15. On some channels (1 thru 4) pin 3 is logic low on power up, on others, it's logic high. On this latest test, channel four was the only channel that caused the servo to move, albeit incorrectly. But on channel 4, at center stick, power up logic is high, when the stick (and servo) moves full right, logic goes to low. Bizzaro.
  16. Okay, I'll probe pin 3 on all channels and see what we get. Baby steps, Dr. Marvin (What about Bob?) I'll get back soon. Thanks for helping! Tom
  17. I AM GOING DAFT!!! I bought a new programmer and a sleeve of 25 fresh chips from Mouser. I managed to program two chips that work as advertised........BUT, They only work on channel 2 of my Laser 6 system. No response at all on any other channel. Get this, I have two transmitters sitting in front of me on the workbench, one is a Hitec Laser 6 and the other is a Hitec Eclipse 7. Both set for channel 62. My receiver, obviously, has a channel 62 xtal installed. They both work normally without the PanCam in the loop. Insert PanCam, and Laser 6 works properly but only on Ch. 2, as I said.
  18. I am trying to program my PIC with the PanCam hex file. I am getting a warning message that reads as follows: No oscillator calibration value found, do you want to use value from file (OFFFh) instead? I have programmed the first chip by pressing "yes" to this query. The chip does not function. I have checked and re-checked my wiring, and all the pins are at the correct logic. The servo twitches upon connection, but does not respond to the stick. I am currently programming a second chip after pressing "No" in response to the warning message. My settings read as follows: Checksum
  19. Got it.....Thanks. I may try making a foam "jacket", to muffle the screams.
  20. Just received two fresh Hitec digital servos. They make a lot of "noise" (sound) which I find annoying on my surface bot. Can this sound be disabled on these servos?
  21. Don't know. I'm guessing 250mA or even less. This is based on numbers I have read for much higher powered transmitters. I have a Keithly meter that will measure amperes.....I'll put the probes to it and find out for sure.
  22. I meant to say that the video Tx power is .5mW (not mA). I realize this whole deal is hard to follow, so I am (attempting) attaching an image of my rig. Now you can see what I mean about the enclosures. The right side case houses the video Tx, switch, LED, recharge jack, and aux. power jack. In other words, there's a lot going on in that space. The 9.6V battery pack fits in there just perfectly so I'd really like to stay with that, but my video Tx say NO. You can see the mini servo that trips the shutter on the Nikon 8700. I also have another mini that works the zoom controls on the back o
  23. WOW. Great informations guys! I have my homework assignment, thanks. The enclosure on my pan/tilt has limited space in which to hold a battery pack. It holds a 9.6V pack perfectly, but the video Tx signal is unstable when the servos are working. When I switch to 12V, the noise goes away, but a 12V battery pack won't fit in the enclosure. I need to do some life testing. I need to get 4 hours of operation for both the radio Rx and the Video Tx. The servos (2, 40 in./oz., and 2, mini) will only be used sporadically, but the video signal will be on all the time. I may need to go to an exter
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