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Attention: RC-CAM.com will be closing down August 2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This is being announced now (March 2021) so that everyone has time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.


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About KeithLuneau

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    RC-Cam Regular
  • Birthday 08/18/1982

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    On top of the world! (in Louisiana)

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  1. Hi Thomas, I just wanted to thank you for this project. I've made one up for myself, and it works great! I grabbed two board from RTFQ (KV-Team modded ones), but I don't have access to a 3D printer so I put the boards together and made some simple cables to adapting them for my needs. I simply soldered all the pins as standard, added the jumper wire for the voltage sensor on both boards, then soldered a JST power lead to the back of the 12V and GND pins. After a bit of glue for a strain relief on the power leads, I shrink wrapped the board with clear wrap, so I could see the LEDs and also
  2. Looks great! You shouldn't have much trouble spotting that one in the tall grass should it ever go down... That's brings me to my question, what paint to you use to paint Multiplex foam? I can't find anything that sticks well and doesn't flake off. I'd like to find a nice flat or satin black for the nose.
  3. I remember seeing his flights too. Last time I talked to him he said he was still flying but not posting as much. That was at least a year ago though. I found his site again, but didn't see much about his setups and equipment, at least the R/C gear. Maybe I'll just stick with my current mile range and enjoy that for a little while longer, and work on other things that need attention, like my ground station, a video splitter, etc. People often say how cool it must be to live in the middle of nowhere like I do, with miles of nothing in all directions. Don't get me wrong, I do love it, but it
  4. Ideally I'd like to fly around 5 miles reliably. I think this amp would give me that, I'm getting at least a mile with stock gear. Given that this costs $120, runs the risk of shooting someone else down (though there's literally nobody flying R/C here but me), is illegal, etc. I think I'd be better off saving up for a UHF system instead. I'm currently using a Corona RP8D1 receiver in one plane, and a Hitec Electron 6 in another. Maybe I'll pick up a good Futaba receiver to try in the mean time. Any suggestions on which one is the best? I do have a PCM transmitter (9CAP) but would prefer a P
  5. I recently saw a link to this amp posted at RCGroups. http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet/the-1639/Booster-system-SA725-Signal/Detail The seller claims it's a 7W amplifier for 72MHz, and provides instructions for installing it into an R/C transmitter. I know this can open a big can of worms with regards to the legal issues, and rightfully so. There's probably a long list of reasons why it shouldn't be so readily available for purchase and use in the US. That said, I wanted to ask about it in a technical sense. How well would something like this work? Assuming the receiver side o
  6. I asked this same question on RCGroups already, but more input can never hurt. Besides, I like how answers over here tend to be more fact that opinion! lol I was just wondering if the 5V regulator that's in the cable that comes with the 500mW 2.4GHz transmitter can handled the extra load of a camera as well as the transmitter. I took the regulator out of the plastic housing and soldered my own cables and connectors to it, then covered it in heat shrink, so it's a lot smaller and lighter than before. I've used it to power the transmitter for a handful of flights and it seems to work just gr
  7. Ok, that explains why it's so easy to "tune" the output frequency too then... To quote some info that came up with a search for VCO Transmitters... I guess the final verdict is that I'll never be able to get it to work on a legal HAM frequency within the specified voltages. I did try earlier raising the voltage up to 11.5v and never got it all the way to the next channel on the receiver. I'd have to jump 5 channels to make it to a legal one.
  8. Here's the close up pictures... There's not a lot there... The coin for size reference is a dime. Maybe you can make more sense of it than I can. All I see is poor construction and design! Maybe later today I'll do some ground range tests and see what it's doing with such a low supply voltage.
  9. No, there's no Vreg in the cable now. There was one, but it was a 5V for the little CMOS camera. The transmitter was fed the full 9V from the battery. There may indeed be one on the transmitter, I'll take a look and see. I know varying the voltage definitely changes the freq. it's transmitting on. Using the pot on the Anyvolt I was able to "tune" the transmitter so the receiver picked it up. Tomorrow I'll cut the shrink wrap off and take some pictures of the transmitter board. It's super small, no can, just a little board with a whip antenna. I soldered a short lead with a connector so it w
  10. A few years ago, I picked up one of those cheap-o cmos cameras with built in transmitter like the "Hong Kong Camera" project. Mine was sold as "1.2GHz", has a tuning knob on the receiver, typical junky set. I messed around with it a little bit for a while, and found that the frequency seemed to drift as voltage changed. I've used it all the way up to 12V, even though it was originally set up for a 9V battery. Using a stable voltage (Anyvolt Micro) I was able to get it tuned so that the knob didn't need to be adjusted much in flight, and made a GPP scaled for 1.16GHz as stated in the project
  11. I ended making a flight at sunset again today, landed after dark in fact! That was scary... lol I made two trips out to known points just over a mile from the launch point. Video was rock solid the entire time. I used my laptop and Easy Cap, which worked great for the whole flight. I guess I'll just chalk this up as an incompatibility between the Lawmate receiver and my Mini-DV camera. (It's a Sony DCR-HC40 for anyone else wondering what camera it is, might save someone else running into the same issue.) For now I'll also assume that the video levels are probably off and could use some t
  12. For what it's worth, I messed around with a similar transmitter/receiver like this for fun, and found that using a stable voltage on the transmitter and receiver helped with frequency drift. I ended up using a Any Volt Micro on the transmitter, and a 12V NiCd pack on the receiver. I also made a Goof Proof patch scaled to it's frequency, and that was a huge improvement. It was all good fun, but barely worked at best... It was still good fun bombing around the back yard though, not really worried about crashing the plane or the video gear. I still have that stuff, maybe I should dig it out and
  13. Just a little more info... In preparing for a flight this evening, I just tested the Lawmate gear with my Easy Cap. It sees the video and captures just fine. I'm not sure what the deal is with my Mini-DV camera, but it still refuses to see any signal at all coming from the Lawmate transmitter. Guess I'll be using my laptop while I wait on a scope to investigate further...
  14. Definitely looks like multipath to me. It's not uncommon to see it indoors where the signal is free to bounce off of may reflective structures in the building.
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