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Attention: RC-CAM.com will be closing down August 2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This is being announced now (March 2021) so that everyone has time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.


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About bkdavy

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    RC-Cam Visitor
  1. Thanks for the response. As I continued my searching, I did find one reference to a web page where someone had opened it up and added aluminum blocks to the existing regulators to assist cooling. I've decided to simply use an external LM7812 ($1.59 at Radio Shack). I've got plenty of capacitors lying around the shop. 5 minutes worth of solder and shrink wrap is easier than overheating the receiver. Brad
  2. Can anyone help me identify this receiver's specifications? Specifically, I'm trying to determine the max and min power voltages to determine whether I need to go through the trouble of adding a voltage regulator to my battery, or if I can just hook the battery up directly. The battery I have is a 14.8v 4 cell LiPo that has over 16 volts when fully charged. The reciever input is simply labeled 12v, but I know that many of these recievers simply incorporate and LM7805 or similar voltage regulator, which is good for up to 24 volts. Thanks for any help. Brad
  3. Well I gave up on the hand drawn PCB, since it really needs a 2 sided board, and vias were too difficult. I didn't trust the point to point wiring in an airplane. Instead, I went with ExpressPCB. I could fit 8 boards onto one of the miniboards. Unfortunately, there is a minimum of 3 miniboards. Consequently I have enough boards for 24 RCFS devices. For $59 delivered, thats about $2 per board. Not a bad price. ~$2 for the 4011 and the 12c508, $.25 for the capacitor. Now I'm waiting for the connector plugs and pins from Digikey (went with the 3mm Universal Micro Mate-N-Lock connectors) to
  4. Well, I found another site that describes in great detail how to check out the JDM programmer. I walked through the entire setup. There is one minor problem in that the MCLR value is only 10.37 volts. I'm not sure what the minimum for the 12C508 is. I had the delay set to 10, and was using the Direct i/o in ICPROG. I changed the Delay to 1 (trying to get MCLR as high as possible), and switched to the Windows API. Just for grins and giggles, I put the same chip (thought it was already programmed, but what the hey) into the programmer and read the chip. It looked like it hadn't been progr
  5. I need help trying to figure out what's going wrong. I built the RCFS per plan, using the Digikey parts. It's built on a .1 inch perf board using point to point wiring with the 30 guage insulated wire wrapping wire. Used the 12C508 chip. I checked continuity at all points and looked for shorts (everything checked out okay) The 12C508 was programmed (I think) with the JDM programmer (version 2, JDM Programmer) modified per his web page to include 2-9 volt batteries and a 220 ohm current limiting resistor across C2. I used IC Prog to do the programming, with the fuses set per the instruct
  6. I'm trying to identify the correct plugs for Hitech servo leads. I've searched through the Digikey and Mouser Catalogs, but cannot find it. Anybody know the correct designation for the plugs (both male and female ends) that are compatible with the Hitech configuration? Thanks, Brad
  7. Rather than open a new topic, I'll add my question to this old topic, since my question is related. I've built other electronic projects, but am new to PICs. Like the originator, I'm looking at the PicKit 1 as an inexpensive but reliable entry into PIC programming. Seeing that its seemingly only for Flash chips, I looked for a Flash version of the 12c508/9. Sure enough, Microchip makes a 12f509 that appears to be compatible. Has anyone tried using the 12F509 in place of the 12C508 or 12C509? Any reason it wouldn't work? Mouser carries the 12f509 for $1.01 under stock number 579-PIC
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