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About psunder

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    RC-Cam Visitor
  1. Hi Bill, the mic is working nicely , could you elaborate on your above quote since it might save me from having to send in my berg g3 and my 9C for checkups?
  2. Well, today I found out that the video TX has nothing to do with my loss of range and control as I was losing control of my aircraft today at similar ranges without the video TX even being on... So now I at least have my problems narrowed down to my 9C or my berg, I am betting on the 9C being the cause of the problem. Anyway, I assumed the problem was the video TX and I was wrong. I guess the lesson here is to never assume...
  3. Well.... as my wallet will soon testify the solution of moving the video TX about 8 inches away from everything didn't work. I have a SS and a brand-new AXI brushless sitting in the trash. I am going to give this one more go before I give up. How is it that I am the only one who seems to be having problems??? I just don't get what I could possibly be doing wrong... the latest incident happened about 150 feet out, I had Nikko brand RC cars from Walmart that went further than that when I was 12...
  4. I have tried both an FMA M5 and a Berg G6 3... both excellent RXers. I wish I could post a video of the video TXs influence over the servos, I can actually control the servos position by moving the video TX into different positions relative to the servo itself...
  5. The zip-ties are very loose since they are there simply as a backup incase the servo tape would fail as a result of the video TX getting warm. In addition, I have since disattached the unit with no noticable improvement in the situation. Camera or no camera, range is seriously effected either way. Ok, I basically have figured out that proximity of the video TX to ANY of the RC components is causing the interference. I think I am going to create a pylon mount out about 1 foot on the wing since distance seems to really be the only solution at this point. What I would love to know is how everyone but me seems to be achieving wonderful result with all of their equipment in relatively close proximity to the video TX. Oh well, just another one of life’s curious insults...
  6. Ok, sounds like I just need to choose something here... so... input cap - cheapy ceramic cap since I don't see any requested specs other than .47uF in the data sheet output cap - http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dk...w=94727&Site=US just yell if I am way off base here, otherwise I will give a progress report once changes are implemented
  7. 2 - It probably is a common electrolytic cap... I know nothing about electronics but I do know I was supposed to use a 22uF... so, like, I have no idea what part I would order... something like this? 3 - I am not using an input cap since it was not indicated as necessary... should I use one? Should it be some sort of specialty cap or will any old .47uF one do? 4 - I will rework the mount so that the video TX is mounted off the right side by about 6 inches http://cache.national.com/ds/LM/LM2940.pdf
  8. - I have tried powering the video TX with both a battery common to the RC RX and separate with both resulting in terrible range. - The video TX leads are approximately 4 inches long. - 72
  9. My second video system seems to be going the way of my first… that is, not working. I have got a 600 mw system from BWAV on a GWS SS and I am getting terrible interference (glitching servos) whenever it is on. I have tried both my FMA M5 and my Berg G6 3 but cannot get more than 200-300 feet before I find myself sprinting across the field to close distance with my airplane so I can regain control. As soon as I turn off the video TX I don’t have any problems anymore. The video TX and RC RX are not co-located and the RC RX antenna runs out along the length of the wing so as to keep it away from the aluminum fuselage. Any ideas or have the RPV gods shafted me again?
  10. I recently purchased a 5V 600mw unit from bwav. Since I know jack about electronics I wanted to know if my wiring scheme looks ok. Any help is highly appreciated since this project does not move until I get confirmation that I am going about this the right way...
  11. I had a look at the video switcher page and I might as well have been reading Greek... although certainly not as elegant, would it not be possible for me to use a simple mechanical swich so as to be able to change between my 161 and my Pentax Optio? Dumb idea? Pete
  12. You would have a good hypothesis on a possible source of the problem however I used mechanical means to remove the case (wire cutters) and never applied any heat with my iron. It was actually a relatively gentile process as I remember it so my guess would be the issue stems from the case removal as an integrally tuned part of the system. This will not be a total loss however, I think I will use the system to broadcast images of my lipos (they scare me) as they charge in my car. That will allow me to occasionally take a peek at them while watching tv. I think I will also use this system on the front of my Honda Civic at autoX events. That'll give me those cool speedvision type shots without having to mount my handicam on the front bumper. Rather, I can just broadcast the signal to my handicam in the trunk. Anyway, I'll probably be ordering up a new system here within the week. Pete
  13. Well, I've played around a bit more and just decided to scrap my current system so while I appriciate the help there is no need to take this thread any further. I think I would be best advised to get one of the newer 600mw 5v systems and since that is ultimatly what I am going to do anyway why fuss over something that is going to be replaced... I might as well do it sooner rather than later. Pete
  14. Although I had tested everything when I build this system up about 6 months ago I went ahead and rechecked everything. TX is getting a solid 12.1v and there are no apparent inappropriate continuities and the antenna checks out for appropriate continuities as I understand them. One possible source of problems is the fact that I removed the metal casing from the TX shortly after I got it. In retrospect this yielded very little weight savings and was not a good idea. I took care to reground all points on the board that had been soldered to the case however I am wondering if the case is somehow integral to proper operation of the TX. I created a shielding container in which to place the TX to see if this made any difference however no change in range was noted. If need be I suspect I could fit the original case back on without great difficulty. The only other possible source of the problem stems from my confusion regarding the proper use of capacitors. Please see http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM2940.pdf According to the application diagram Cout should be “at least 22uF”… so what should I stick on it? I have been using a 100uF electrolytic cap because it was available, is this a possible problem source? Also, C1 is to be used if "regulator is located far from power supply filter" so I have nothing here... do I need it? Pete
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