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Attention: RC-CAM.com will be closing down August 2021.

The RC-Cam.com forum was the very first online community dedicated to the advancement of wireless video cameras on radio controlled (R/C) models. This is now called "FPV" (First Person View). We are proud of the contributions that our members have made to the FPV hobby.

We've seen significant changes over the last twenty years. Initially there were a lot of eager R/C hobbyist that built their own video systems. Allowing these creative individuals to share their work was the purpose of this site. Now the FPV market is flooded with low cost systems; Sadly DiY FPV video projects are now rarely discussed.

RC-CAM.com (main site and forum) will be closing down August 2021. This is being announced now (March 2021) so that everyone has time to download any information that is important to them. After the site is shutdown the information will no longer be available here.

We appreciate every member's involvement with advancing the FPV hobby. It is indeed sad to say goodbye to all our online friends. Be safe and stay healthy.



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I sure wish I had your motor/ESC combo to test this on. I suspect the digital filtering needs to be more aggressive in your situation. But, perhaps we can tame this with a simple R-C filter. Are you interested in a bit of soldering?

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To make it simple, all the mods will go on the current sensor board. If you don't mind, please do the mods in sequence and test as you go. That way I'll be able to better understand the issues.

Review the photo below. None of the values are critical. Resistors are 1/8W or larger.

Step 1: Add R1 (4.7K ohms). It goes across the brown and orange wires. Do NOT change anything else at this point. Re-calibrate the current sensor then test your motor setup. Does this help at all? If the data is more stable (some minor bouncing is good), you are done.

Step 2: Lift the orange wire from the PCB pad and install R2 (1K ohms) in series. Once installed, re-calibrate the current sensor then test your motor. If the data is stable, you are done.

Step 3: Add C1 (1uF) across the brown wire (-) and the Orange wire / R2 junction (+). This cap can be tailored to larger values (up to 10uF) if you need to significantly averaged the current. If the value is too large then you wont be able to see odd motor/ESC problems later on, so keep the value as small as your situation requires.

Please let me know what you find.

post-3-1159202274_thumb.jpg

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I added the first resistor, no change.

I added the second resistor, no change.

I added a 4.7uF capacitor, magic !

The reading is rock solid but still updates the instant I move the throttle :D

Thanks for the quick fix.

Terry

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That is good to hear! I was expecting a much smaller cap value to tame it. Was the 4.7uF the minimum you needed to solve the problem, or just a random choice from the parts bin?

EDIT: BTW, does your ammeter and Vizion values match?

Edited by Mr.RC-Cam
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just a random choice, I thought sounded about right with the resistors you said. I was going to reduce it if response was slow or increase it if it still bounced about.

Yes they do, also tested with a 1 ohm load and it showed 11.7A so with 3 LiPo thats about right, close enough for me anyway.

Terry

Edited by Terry
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It's great to hear about happy endings. Especially when it's just a simple cap fix.

In regards to the cap choice, I suspect a much smaller value would work too. There is quite a bit of digital filtering going on in the software. Perhaps this is just an aliasing issue due to the behavior of the ESC. If so, then it shouldn't take much to tame the problem.

If you should record any flights please post links to them. It would be grand to see some OSD videos.

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Follow Up: For those that need to use this filter, component recommendations are C1=2.2uF and R2=1K ohms. R1 is not required (optional). Values are not critical.

Anyone that is not versed in making this change themselves are invited to contact the dpcav.com site for instructions on mailing in their Vizion i-sensor for updating. Lastly, the change will go into the next production board build.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I Received my Zlog today but I am a little disapointed that it dose not power up when I connect it to the Vizion. All my R/C system is in the back of the plane and the video gear is in the nose. I have set it out this way to avoid interference plus I have no spare channels anyway. Is there a way to power it from the Vizion or do I need to make yet another PSU ? :(

Terry

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...there not much info on the sheet of paper that came with it, maybe its on the disc.

The voltage range info is not well published. But it is shown in the feature list on their web site. It says "Accepts wide range of input power: 4 - 15 volts. Power from your aircraft receiver. "

, I take it there is no way to power it from one of the 4 pins it already connects to ?

Sorry, but no. Zlog MOD3's 4-pin connector has TxD, RxD, low current 3.3V out, and Gnd.

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Alright Terry. Ya gotta post details on how you like the Vizon and the Zlog. I am planning on getting both someday and wonder how they work and what people think of them. Video would be extra nice!

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Well I have only used the Vizion a while and the problems I have had you can read in this thread but are all sorted now without too much trouble. As for the Zlog I have not used it in the plane yet but I am impressed by the way it reads 3ft alt just by picking it up off the bench !

The Zlog fits to the Vizion well but it is a shame you still need a separate battery feed to power it. I have added a short lead out the back of my Vizion to do this and save another long lead. At the same time I removed the rx leads from both the Vizion and the Zlog as I dont need them and having them in the plane just increases the chance of me plugging something in wrong.

The other thing I did was to add the volt pick up to the amp sensor to keep things a bit more tidy. I would of liked this to be a option to save me the bother as I think a lot of people would like it this way. A polarised connector for the volts pick up the same as the amps would also save the worry of connecting it the wrong way.

All these things are minor and I guess everone wants it their way but its easy to use and if I broke it today I would buy another tomorrow :D

Terry

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Yes, thanks Terry. Definitely what I was hoping I would hear. Those two bits will soon be joining my arsenel of onboard electronics...having the abiltiy to track voltage, current and altitude will make flying FPV a whole lot less stressful!

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