Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi Vrflyer,

My diversity RX is still not ready for sale as I experimenting with different ideas. Now I have GPS tracking antenna fully integrated in the receiver. And I am adding custom graphics video overlay - it may be another year before I have something good enough to sell.

But the link posted by rob10000 looks like what you want. The person AnthonyRC uses the same design and it seems that he is selling PCB's or kits I am not sure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice setup y'v got there vrflyer, i'm just curious, what brushless/reg/prop

combo are you using ? Does it have an ok climbout, with the extra weight.

Roger

Edit:sp.

Edited by FlyingHigh

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Nice setup y'v got there vrflyer, i'm just curious, what brushless/reg/prop

combo are you using ? Does it have an ok climbout, with the extra weight.

Roger

Edit:sp.

Motor: E-Flite 4200KV Brushless

ESC: E-Flite 20 Amp ESC

2 cell Lipo 2100mah

The climbout is not satisfactory. I made modification today, it's exactly what I want to talk :)

2 cell was convenient to me, because the cam/tx is plug on the main batt. A linear regulator on my cam/tx step down the voltage to 5V, it's locate in the tx casing. Whe the planes does not fly, the tx become very hot, when it fly, it's stay warm. My motor & ESC can handle 3 cell, but I can't imagine the heat of the tx if the planes stuck somewhere, I will see the styrofoam melted :)

I tried with a dc-dc converter pt5041at the place of the linear reg, but I was getting noise in the picture, I don't tried with PT5041 in line with the linear reg. So I stayed with 2 cell batt.

I tried today with the minianyvolt with succes. This reg. input is plug to the 2 or 3 cell batt and the output is adjust to 6V, then it feed to the tx, the linear reg is still inside the tx. Now I get a very clear picture, and the tx stay warm when the planes not move, with the 2 or 3 cell batt, proof of a more efficient setup. I will now have more thrust

But I see in the spec of the ESC, the BEC reg risk to be overload at 3 cell batt with 4 servos and receiver to power, so I build a 5 v linear reg and plug it to the battery to power the receiver and servos. I disable the BEC. I'm surprise to see already an improvement on the speed of the servos even when I use the 2 cell batt. So,the BEC was already overload with 2 cell batt.

With theses two improvements, my Easystar will have more thrust to get out of hard positions, and will react more rapidly when control will apply. Check my new video, I begin to practicing flying low near ground, you will understand why I need more power and maneuvrability

This is the link to Youtube, I will add a link where you will be able to download higher quality

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHA41FNrRD0

post-8-1157424127_thumb.jpg

Edited by Vrflyer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was wondering how you were powering all your servos.

One of the reasons I'm hesitant to add ailerons to my Easystar is because I would be forced to disable the BEC and use another device to power them. I don't want to add anymore weight to the airplane, and space is at a premium!

I'm already pushing the limit of 3 servos with my Castle Creations Phoenix 25 with 4 servos, but I figure the pan/tilt servos aren't really working THAT hard...

Also, I'm looking forward to seeing a higher quality version of that video!

Edited by rob10000

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've got 2 Hitec HS-81 servos on rudder and elevator, 1 Hitec HS-55 on pan, and a tiny (19x7.5x15.5 mm) Bluebird BMS-303 on tilt. I've been following people's experiences closely on the Castle Creations forum, and I think 2 more for aileron control might be pushing the capacity. I am happy with how the Easystar flies on just rudder, anyway. With that said, I'm sure my next FPV platform will have ailerons!

Thanks for the link; is there a "Slalom big"?

Edited by rob10000

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Euh...

After adding the regulator yesterday to power the receiver and servos, I see a difference in the sound of the motor while using the same 2 cell batt as usual. Normaly the motor look not to turn at full speed, the limiting circuit when the battery are low look to slow down the prop a little bit... After installing reg, now the prop turn at full speed.

This is my first (working) electric planes. I read instuction that come with ESC when construct the Easystar, but forget that ESC will be overload. I was using 6 servos drive from the BEC. Nothing was working properly...

This morning I try the Easystar, and immediatly see amelioration in climb rate, and aerobatic was easier to do.

Robe, you use anyminivolt for the cam, do you have tried to plug it directly to the main battery? Do you see lines in the video when motor turn? It could resolve your overweight problem.

I'm agree with you, the ailerons are not neccessary. Because I was use to fly Funtana since two years, it's explain why I want it to be more agressive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was wondering about this topic. I have a 2100mah 3 cell lipo running a Brushless Park 450 and powering 6 small futaba servos. How can I compute if I have overloaded the ESC. The plane acts weird sometimes. It can get a little eratic as if it is getting out of range but it's not far away. The pan and Tilt servos get a little crazy when I get clost to the ground or large metal objects. Any help on this.

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
How can I compute if I have overloaded the ESC.

The ESC's instructions should include a table that shows number of allowed servos on a given battery voltage. Typically a 3-cell LiPO will allow the usual BEC design to safely support 3 servos (+ ESC) max. But, consult your instructions for the best answer.

With six servos, I would recommend an external BEC rated for your 3-cell app. Otherwise, most ESC's will suffer from BEC overheating and possible shutdown. YMMV.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check your ESC's manual... usually the BEC is specified to supply between 2-4 servos out of a 3s battery. You should check the voltage on the R/C power supply at the time it fails, if you manage to reproduce the problem on the ground like by moving the sticks a lot for some time.

If you're flying very low range decreases a lot too, it's normal. I've already been flying at 1km distance with no problem, come back, then tried a low pass (~2m AGL) at 100m distance and lost R/C...

BTW, I'm also running 6 servos out of the BEC on my katana and everything works fine. I'll do some checks after I add the next 2 though...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Winter is comming, my Easystar need some modifications. I re-installed the canopy, and not having enough space, I removed pan & tit servo mount, I replaced them by a Hitec hs-55 modify to 180 deg (150 deg to be more exact).

post-8-1165804137_thumb.jpg

Edited by Vrflyer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The dashboard was made of cardboard, I made another one in lightplywood, and installed it with more incinaison to get better lght illumination.

post-8-1165804337_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I replace my PCM receiver with a PPM receiver. Like you see only 2100mah 2S battery and receiver, the ZLOG is install in the nose on top. A thin sheet of foam will be add over the receiver.

post-8-1165804910_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The ESC is install here. I made my own 5V regulator to replace the BEC. The regulator input is solder directly at the ESC battery input, I cutted the red wire that come from the ESC BEC and solder the regulator output on it.

Power wire for the video equipement is also solder on the ESC battery wire input, this could make a difference in r/c glitch (if you use only one battery and if you plug your own regulator or video equipement directly on the main battery connector, you will have more glitch, don't ask me why, I don't know)

Phone number under the wing, someone can find the planes if I lost it or take my responsabilty if something bad happens :(

post-8-1165805724_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A thin sheet of plastic has been install under all the lenght of the planes to help the planes slip on the snow

post-8-1165805874_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Two (I don't know the name) are install under the wings, I want the planes to take-off also from the snow, they will help for stability, and I will have a lot of fun to slip with my planes and make turn on the snow :)

I made them with rejected canopy that I made with my vacu-forming equipement

Clear tape is install over the two bottom cooling ESC hole and over the servo

post-8-1165806184_thumb.jpg

Edited by Vrflyer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Power wire for the video equipement is also solder on the ESC battery wire input, this could make a difference in r/c glitch (if you use only one battery and if you plug your own regulator or video equipement directly on the main battery connector, you will have more glitch, don't ask me why, I don't know)

I´m using one battery with this regulator, wich is soldered to the esc battery input.

Might you explain me what do you recommend me to do?

Very nice modifications for the winter, a Snow Star :) Now you only need a heater for a covered desk, I´m already thinking about that :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What's the best servos to use for the pan and tilt on an Easy Star? HS65, 56? Full size, micros?

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Generally speaking, for a small camera like the KX131, a pair of Hitec HS-81's would be reasonable. Since weight is an issue on the Easystar, an HS-81 on the base and a HS-55 on the upper deck might make you happy. But, there are many other choices out there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did not tried your regulator, if it work well for you, it`s ok. Many peoples can not run on only one battery, if it work with this reg for you, it could work for other.

About servos, I use HS-81 for pan and HS-55 for tilt.

Edited by Vrflyer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did my first test flight with onboard video tranmisson today and it worked really well!!

Tried to control the plane over display of my camcorder for just a few seconds...crazy feeling...but it was a start java script:emoticon(':D')

now I want to start building an easystar with head tracking:

I was wondering if anybody has experience finding the best place for the ESC in the easystar

I saw most people placing it in the compartement under the engine...but I am affraid to put all those high voltage cables around the rx then...and I heard its not too good to have rx between ESC and the battery

I came up with this idea...putting the ESC in the frame over the wing

that way it will be cooled and I can put all the high power cables away from the rx and antenna

also the rx witll be further away from the video tx

I know its a tight and fragile place ...but I am guessing the cables will give the frame an extra support again

do you think this is an advantage...or is the esc too close to the tx in that case

I just want to make sure to not get interferences

thanks for help and all the help I already got reading through this nice forum

greetings from Austria

post-8-1166130498_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I did my first test flight with onboard video tranmisson today and it worked really well!!

Tried to control the plane over display of my camcorder for just a few seconds...crazy feeling...but it was a start java script:emoticon(':D')

now I want to start building an easystar with head tracking:

I was wondering if anybody has experience finding the best place for the ESC in the easystar

I saw most people placing it in the compartement under the engine...but I am affraid to put all those high voltage cables around the rx then...and I heard its not too good to have rx between ESC and the battery

I came up with this idea...putting the ESC in the frame over the wing

that way it will be cooled and I can put all the high power cables away from the rx and antenna

also the rx witll be further away from the video tx

I know its a tight and fragile place ...but I am guessing the cables will give the frame an extra support again

do you think this is an advantage...or is the esc too close to the tx in that case

I just want to make sure to not get interferences

thanks for help and all the help I already got reading through this nice forum

greetings from Austria

Good idea but.... how are you going to unplug the main battery from the ESC?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well , the photo i took was pretty roughly put together

the cables from the esc would have to a bit longer to reach into the battery compartment

but it will be definitely hard to get the esc out there again in case I need to change it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...