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JMS

Operating your CCD camera remote function.

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I decided to ditch my Sony board camera because it's not up to my task, mostly my fault by buying a cheap Chinese made unit. I wished I read more of these valuable post before I went on a spending spree last year!

Anyhow I did manage to buy last year a KT&C bullet cam ( KPC-HD230CB ) and it seems fine on the bench. Unfortunate the size is questionable, but it does have a wire remote to operate it's zoom, colour/contrast adjustments.

The remote is physically like a cheap calculator, where the semi-bubble shape pads make contact while pressing on them to operate the camera function. My question is it possible to hack into the remote (pads?) so when I flick a switch or rotate a dial on my Futaba 9cap, it would send signals to my camera remote control? I could use another servo to do this task but it would be hard because of weight and room issues. I've always thought it would be an interesting project since I haven't seen this done on any videos from hobby folks like us.

Here is the picture of the remote :huh:;)

post-6-1172304396_thumb.jpg

Edited by JMS

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title_KPC-HD230CWX_02.gif

See the lower right corner. The remote just has a resistor network that will drop the remote input to a different voltage depending on the key that is pressed. You could use a microcontroller and D/A converter / digital pot to reproduce that. Or even easier, make the same resistor network, connect one of the controller's pins to each key location, and drive the desired one low while the others are in high-Z state.

But frankly, I agree brightness could be useful, but the digital zoom is just plain ugly :(

Edited by Kilrah

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Hi Kilrah!

Thanks for the info and a good start! I don't know how you found that diagram because I could find it myself!

Yeah brightness would be useful to control if the environment changes and I'm sure we all would like that option. I just got to figure out how to use your data and make it all work; look like a few sleepless night ahead of me :) . Once or "if" I figure how to do this, I would post my final results in detail with parts on this forum! Still like I said before, it would be an interesting project! ;)

Thanks again Kilrah!! :D:D:D:D

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just use a few of them bit switches connected with the right resistors to that controll line, and you are done.

using more servo channels and more bit switches will make it possible to controll more functions.

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Hi TS

Yes I guess that would make thing much more simpler! I have very limited electronic skills but I am very determined; so I assume the bit switches are attached to the existing hand remote I have now?

BTW I admire your work with your OSD! It's nice to have more geniuses here along with Mr.RC-Cam, Kilrah, AnthonyRC, Terry, Cyber-Flyer, etc......

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Indeed, that solution could work too. If your switches allow a threshold, Y-them all on the servo connector side, give them stepped thresholds, and then with clever mixing on the TX you could have everything on one channel :lol:

Of course you could parallel one to the remote's button if you don't want to make a resistor network.

What you know and I don't is if the camera needs repeated presses to adjust by steps or if you can maintain the button for fast adjustment. If it's the first version that could be a bit painful to use.

For the diagram, just go to the source ;)http://ktnc.co.kr/product_04_01.asp

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Actually my remote control is the newer version so yeah, just hold the button down and watch the adjustment changes.

As for the Bit Switches, I have only two channels left to spare since I took out the tilt function on my camera.

f your switches allow a threshold, Y-them all on the servo connector side, give them stepped thresholds, and then with clever mixing on the TX you could have everything on one channel

This is possible? Having everything on one channel? :blink:

post-6-1172397000_thumb.jpg

Edited by JMS

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I don't know those bit switches, but some time ago I had a switch that had a pot to adjust the switching threshold.

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Kilrah,

Do you by chance still have that link for the switch with the adjustable Pot you speak about? I would like to study the details of this!

BTW that bullet cam I showed you worked fairly well, but kind of heavy though. The green on the grass, the colour of the trees was fairly true. As soon as I improve my reception I will post a video. In the mean time I'm still figureing out how to hack my remote for the cam and other ways to improve the weight of my plane with the equipment I have. ;)

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Wow, didn't think I would, but I found it again!

Here

And, documentation with schematic using standard components :D

It's German, but you'll certainly find the good info ;)

Edited by Kilrah

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have you access to AVR's ?

specially the Tiny45 ?

and a programmer ?

then I will be happy to make you a super cool item:

one chip with 8 pins, Gnd, +5, and one servo signal input,

then 4 digital outputs, one on at a time at different "servo" positions,

so you can program your RC transmitters different slideres/buttons

to activate the 4 different outputs,

all you need to add is the 4 special resistor values needed for each cam remote function !

I can even make un-active outputs floating, and only the active connect to ground,

internally !

is that a "bug" you ??

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I have the CWX versiol of this, not sure what the diff is. I bought it primarily because it's pretty easy to water proof. Before I hacked the cable, I played with some resistors and was able to make some of the features work. At least for the zoom and pan, its a continuous function as long as the proper resistance is present. Remember of course, that the zoom is strictly digital, it dosn't add pixles. The other side to this is that this is supost to be 520 tv lines, I don't believe we are really getting all that resolution through a downlink, and even fiewer lines are displayed on most portible displays. So a digital zoom would aid clarity up to the point where the active part of the cameras resolution matched the display limit.

It's pretty easy to fool with the control, just buy a handfull of resistors and a cap, and hook up a few to one end and stick the other wire on whatever resistor corosponds to the function you want. Remember that the values are aditive.

I concluded that at least for my aplication, a zoom was too much work. I also didn't want to have the zoom way in and then suddenly need full view, it takes time to zoom in and out. The brightness control might be nice, though I would want to see what it really does before putting too much work into a flying solution. Again, it's an electronic solution, the electronic shutter is already pretty well controlled.

I know that some of these cameras have the abaility to control an auto iris lense, which would be really interesting, as I think some of our problems are from putting too much light into a pretty sensitive camera. Not sure if this one will do it, and also not sure if the remote controll would have any effect on it.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=60...3&q=rc+seaplane

Is my 20+ min vid using this camera. In general it works pretty well, I think the sky reflecting off the water adds to the backlight problems at times. If you jump ahead, 75% through or so, there is some high flying in the clouds. The res is of course degraded a lot. In the orig, the water has a certian "wet" look that is lost here. I will get some screen shots and post them. Color is usually pretty steady, there are a couple points where it shifts though, I can't tell if it's RF problems, or the camera.

Ken

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Kilrah .... muchly appreciated once again for the helpful tip! I will use a web translator to understand the German data.

It must be nice to live in a place where most people can speak German, French & English! :)

have you access to AVR's ?

specially the Tiny45 ?

and a programmer ?

then I will be happy to make you a super cool item:

one chip with 8 pins, Gnd, +5, and one servo signal input,

then 4 digital outputs, one on at a time at different "servo" positions,

so you can program your RC transmitters different slideres/buttons

to activate the 4 different outputs,

all you need to add is the 4 special resistor values needed for each cam remote function !

I can even make un-active outputs floating, and only the active connect to ground,

internally !

is that a "bug" you ??

Awwww Thomas you are a genius! Yeah your electronic wizardtry has gotten my attention once again! Tell you what, if you plan to create this, then go for it but I still would like to see if I can translate Kilrah's link and figure this out. I bet you already have it solved in your head within 2 minuites! If I can't do it then I will probably buy one of your unit. But please temp me with the finished product!!!!! :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

Edited by JMS

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Hey Ken,

I've seen your video in the past. WOW I love the scenery of your area! Kind of resembles mid to upper Vancouver Island, BC, Canada. We have some parts where our area even resembles Switzerland. I love to film that one day and even fly along some of the rivers where I fly fish! But first I have to resolve my reception/interferance problem.

<_<

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I actually already have something similar, but that's with PICs :lol:

Had made it to control a friend's digital camera, moving the stick to 1/3 would activate the focus "half press", then going to 2/3 would trigger the second output for the shutter. Adding others is 2 lines to type for each :P

Regarding the link, there's not much more than the component list and schematic needed ;)

And forget about "most people can speak German, French & English", my German is very... uhm... average :rolleyes:

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any of you got a Tiny45 and a programmer ?

and a servo tester to show and test the functions ?

it is actually 4 bit switches in one 8 pin smd pakage I talk about,

there is a dead zone in the mittle, and two active spots when moving your stick up, and two active spots when mowing stick down,

when going to the far spots you will pass the first spot, but you will not activate it the first 50mS, smart eh, so your transmitter updown switches or buttons can be used for any of the 4 outputs.

Edited by ThomasScherrer

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please see this link:

http://www.webx.dk/rc/four-way-bit-switch.htm

if you use two of those four way bit switches,

and then all 8 resistors , you can control any of the 8 buttons by remote from ground !

you need two spare RC servo channels ofcourse :-)

and 8 programmable buttons on your TX, or 4 up/down switches and a few mixers

Edited by ThomasScherrer

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please see this link:

http://www.webx.dk/rc/four-way-bit-switch.htm

if you use two of those four way bit switches,

and then all 8 resistors , you can control any of the 8 buttons by remote from ground !

you need two spare RC servo channels ofcourse :-)

and 8 programmable buttons on your TX, or 4 up/down switches and a few mixers

Ok Thomas

I'm impressed and I'm the kind of guy who usually don't get impressed that easily.... I'm impressed!!!! :D

I will have to contact you on more details but it will take some time now because work just got double busy on both my businesses. Also I blew the right motor on my Twinstar yesterday afternoon; not a fun experience when the plane is equiped with two normally and suddenly it starts to spin out of control in midair! Believe me my goofy smile with my goggles on quickly turned to a freaked out face!!! :o:o:o:o

Thomas I will get back to you on this after work clears up!!!!! Thanks pal! :D

John

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Thanks JMS, I hope you will be able to construct an easy AVR programmer,

or borrow one somewhere ?

it should be easy to get access to a few Atmel Tiny45 worldwide.

btw: Twinstar must be modified to use BL motors,

SPEED400 sux needs to much maintenence and fly power is limited.

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If I remember correctly you can even order free Tiny45 samples on Atmel's website.

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oh really ? that would be nice..

but to get the hex file in there, you need an ISP programmer,

in circuit serial programmer,

they are cheap and very usefull ! but can also be homemade if you a such a person, with some parts on stuck and time and like to solder things.

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Indeed, they seem to be offering samples of everything. I've tried ordering some Tiny85s a few days ago, we'll see if they arrive :lol:

http://www.atmel.com/forms/Samples.asp?family_id=607

I might go for that cheap programmer you linked to the other day. The problem is that the DIY designs I've found are mostly using the parallel port, some the serial one. But I'm equipped with a recent laptop, and it's some time now they've left these ports aside. I've had so many problems trying to use an USB to RS232 converter with my DIY PIC programmer (that has been working perfectly well for a long time on a "real" integrated port) I don't want to tear my hair during hours again and will rather go directly with an USB programmer ;)

Not to say buying a USB to parallel converter might even be more expensive than the USB programmer, hehe :)

Edited by Kilrah

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Thanks JMS, I hope you will be able to construct an easy AVR programmer,

or borrow one somewhere ?

it should be easy to get access to a few Atmel Tiny45 worldwide.

btw: Twinstar must be modified to use BL motors,

SPEED400 sux needs to much maintenence and fly power is limited.

Thanks again for the knowledgable information regarding the Speed400 motors Thomas!

I beleive you since my dead motor only had about an hour of fly time! Yes I guess air planes is like a BOAT (Bring Out Another Thousand) hehe... I've alreadied started to seach out a good price on two new BL motors and a ESC. I'm studying "TWINTURBOSTANGS" set up now. :)

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hehe JMS, "buy cheap buy many" has often proven to be right !

we have been using TS1 and now TS2 for many years as trainer planes for our beginner-school in my club, since I am one of 4 instructors, I have MANY flying hr on them TS planes. the first years it was all original SP400, but we got tired of the maintenence and down time, free work is sometimes hard to find,

so we went to BL setup, (remember you need two speed controllers)

now the plane can stay almost double the time in air, and it can climb 3x the rate, it has also proven to be much more safe, when in trouble just full power and away you go !

we are sponsored to some degree, since we are the biggest and smartest electric flying club, several shops love to help us with cheap or free stuff, they also like to have their logos on our planes, so they will be seen by all the beginners.

To Kilrah:

>Not to say buying a USB to parallel converter might even be more expensive than the USB programmer, hehe

yes ! if you want to make a few atmel avr projects a year, just purchase the real original USB programmer ISP-MK2 it handles all their devices and is really quick, here you got the work needed and hex file for free, so purchasing a programmer is now affordable.

Why said our hobby is ment to be cheap ?

no no that is a misunderstanding, more expensive = more fun, and better stuff.

Edited by ThomasScherrer

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no no that is a misunderstanding, more expensive = more fun, and better stuff.

But it is still possable to have fun with this hobby without being the head of NASA. :D

Terry

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