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Connector for Supercircuits FM 900 MHz Tx

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Hi guys,

The availability of 900MHz equipment is so sketchy right now that I am not gonna whine too loudly about a defective cable for a SuperCircuits AVX900T4 transmitter that arrived just yesterday.

Anybody have a part number and/or source for the itsy-bitsy 4 pin female connector at the transmitter end of the cable so that I can make up a decent new switching/charging harness?

(Spiffy little transmitter but a crappy cable. Worked fine for a couple of hours until the neg lead slipped out of terminal because it was too many strands of shielding wrapped together, too fat for the terminal and poorly crimped. Discovered under loose heatshrink that only about 2 strands of the copper shielding on the Composite Video lead were left intact for the ground. Connector pins look to be soldered in situ and it seems likely I'd destroy the existing one to get the neg pin out to try to recrimp/solder it. Just easier to find a new connector, I'm hoping).

Incidentally, as of last week Supercircuits was listing their 4ch 900 MHz FM receiver as discontinued, didn't even have any Tx/Rx/camera bundles in stock. Googling around I discovered the Marshall V-RC900-FVA4 is it's near twin. Ordered one through North American Video (877) 628-2283 though I found it/them online this URL


for $108+ ship. Pictured as black but it arrived in identical beige (drop-shipped directly from Marshall Electronics it came through with generic markings like SC one). Fortunately also came programmed with a channel that worked with the SC transmitter. Heck if I know what actual frequency the channel is yet, absolutely no documentation came with either Tx or Rx.



Edited by Scratchbuilt

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It looks like a JST. Check with digikey.com. Be aware that there are many JST connectors that look alike, but are not the same (so carefully review the data sheet).

By the way, the old pin will slide out very easily if you carefully lift the plastic body's lock tonque.

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Yes Mr.RC-CAM is right about carefully lifting the plastic tongue with a small flathead jeweler's screw driver. Once you pop out the pin you have to open the tiny flaps apart with an Xacto/hobby knife then reattach the copper cable-close up the flaps and push the pin back. Or you can buy a new one like Mr.RC-Cam had mentioned :lol:

Either way it's going to be a challenge! These days when I come across tiny fragile connectors like yours, I automatically put hot glue over the wires & partial male connector to reassure a strong hold. ;)

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Thanks, guys.

With Mr. R/C-Cam's confident assurance that this could indeed be done, I took out my smallest jeweler's screwdriver (looking under the 7X loupe a bit like an oversized crowbar) and gingerly slid all the pins out. These are really flea-sized pieces. Ended up soldering in a section of appropriate-gauge wire instead of trying to get a good connection by crimping at this scale, my smallest foreceps were much too big and I didn't feel like making up a microscopic die set just for the one crimp.

Also stripped back the casing on the Composite lead to get at more than the one (!) strand of copper that originally comprised the negative lead.

Thanks also for the tip about the thermoset glue gun, JMS-- picked up the littlest one of these yesterday at the crafts store along with what must be a hundred-year supply of glue sticks (barring a major global warming trend) for about $6.

While I was doing this little project yesterday I was thinking how many of the cheap items these days need rework or updated firmware or even re-enigineered right out of the box--and that I always end up doing this stuff myself. And that I would often gladly spend a fair fraction more for more robust stuff.

How frustrating this must all seem to non-DIY types.

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