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Mark Harris

Intelligent Flight OSD

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it is exactly the time it takes for me to go crasy :-)

Hehe :P

It takes me about 5-10 mins to be ready for flight when I arrive at the field anyway, so I simply start by plugging the video system's battery, so it can find sats while I install antenna, goggles, recording, assemble plane,...

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Thomas - I've a feeling you'll know this - what is the standby current for the EB85?

i.e. assuming I don't want to worry about this again for a couple of years, are we talking CR1220 (35mAH) or CR2032 (230mAH)?

Off Topic: re. setup time, one real plus for the Easystar is that it goes in the back of the car fully-rigged, instead of all that faffing about at the field!

The other day I stopped the car, went for a full FPV test-fly including a recording, and was back in the car in 10 minutes :rolleyes: ; a real testament to how much easier things are than last year, when I'd have to spend 30+ minutes rigging, plugging, initialising, testing etc. before anything left the ground. Less gets broken, and a real advantage now the weather is so "changeable" (aka cr*ppy)

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haha Kilrah I am not that smart !

I use a 10 cell 4ah pack for one of my FPV planes, I dont like it to stay connected for along time and also unattented when I run back and forward with chargers and tv sets and stuff,

ja doofer I think the smallest celle you can find will last for years,

I can measure the current for you, or it is not in the manual of the GPS ?

or what about you measure it ? you have no ampere meter and a 3V source ?

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Apologies, my EB85 came with no paperwork, the Etek manual I can find at Sparkfun doesn't mention the standby draw, and I never believe currents much under 10 uA with a cheap multitester - and 10uA would be a 'mere' 3 months with a CR1220. I was hoping you'd either know, or have an accurate reading?

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Good news! It all works fine now. My problem was indeed assuming that a conservatory is the same as the middle of a field. Good guess by Mark Kilrah & Thomas: Taking the whole lot away from civilisation worked a treat, satellites obtained, PacMan did his duty and I have a display. Fantastic work.!

Many thanks for your helpful comments. I am reminded of the poem:

"There goes the happy moron; he doesn't give a darn.

I wish I were that moron...... My God! Perhaps I am..."*

It all works so well off the onboard regulator (OSD, GPS, Current meter, KX131 camera); I'm tempted to add my 10mW transmitter and see how hot it gets!

Mark, you mentioned a max of 180mA/750mW dissipation. My camera + transmitter will be 210mA (= RC-Tech TX40), plus about 100 for the OSD/GPS; that's probably on the limit for 2S LiPos, certainly too much for 3S. Presumably the 750mW is a limit in terms of max temp i.e. could be improved if I peeled off some of the heatshrink and clipped on a heatsink? Okay, we're back into the whole hot linear vs. noisy switcher debate, but as I'm only after an extra 30mA...

*PS. The version I typed in rhymed, but the last word of line one has been replaced... with a word that means the same! I stand correctificated...

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the max is 1W of dissapation, but you have to remember the heatshrink on it will really cut down on airflow. Cooler you can keep it the better!

If you want to power everything off one powersupply, go with the 1A PSU which is currently getting manufactured, 33% lighter and smaller than the 3A - it looks pretty good :D And of course, it is so rediculously filtered.

Switchers are only noisy when not designed by Thomas :P Thomas's switchmodes give me better quality video than the linears, and generate next to no EMI :D hurrah for Intelligent Flight.

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I don't remember how our TX40 is, but it sounds like it's gonna be dismounted anyway, so...

The other solution is to power everything through its regulator.

P1280384_t.jpg

It will cope fine, for sure running warm on the ground, but that's not a problem. When I recently got the nifty new current sensor board with PSU I was about to plug it in, but then realised that it didn't make much sense heating up a regulator that is in heatshrink, and buried in a fuselage with close to no airflow, while I could simply continue doing like I've done for dozens of hours before on the bench, especially knowing that the camera's reg obviously has the advantage of being outside in the air...

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Mark, Thomas,

It took me about an hour to read through all 16 pages of this thread and all I can say is congrats on an awesome job, impressive work. Now why doesn't anybody have any stock? As obviously I want one, including the GPS etc.

Best regards,

Sander Sassen

http://www.hardwareanalysis.com

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Kilrah - thanks, that's a neat piece of (almost) lateral thinking. Makes a lot of sense to separate the two systems - video & flight - given the (I think correct) observation by Thomas that you don't want to keep a big flight cell connected on the ground - and I've found with the Eagletree OSD that it's pretty useless having a mAHr reading that is reset each flight!

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To ssassen: some suppliers have stock I was told ?

please ask RC-Tech and Rangevideo about their stocks ?

if not, and if you really cant wait (understandable)

I am sure we can find a way to make you happy.

>that it's pretty useless having a mAHr reading that is reset each flight!

that is the smart thing: after flying you land and change battery = reset, perfect.

if you land and have only used 10% of your pack, why disconnect the pack ?

let it stay on, and then fly again after your coffee break,

or simple charge it up again while drinking coffee :-)

no big deal.

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Mark, Thomas,

It took me about an hour to read through all 16 pages of this thread and all I can say is congrats on an awesome job, impressive work. Now why doesn't anybody have any stock? As obviously I want one, including the GPS etc.

Best regards,

Sander Sassen

http://www.hardwareanalysis.com

Hmmm maybe GREAT PRODUCT? Goes out the door fast? :D

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Yep, just received the stock. Just need to sort out packages, webpage and all :wacko:

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Hello,

Sorry for my bad english :(

I bought the OSD module and I have a small problem.

The current remains to 0.00 A and consommation to 0 mAh.

Do you have any idea ? ?

Here is my setup

DSC00677A.jpg

And here a video

Video

Thank and have a nice day

Edited by Ricnolt

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Ricnolt,

Looks to me the pinout of the current sensor connector is wrong? The black wire (negative) should be on one side of the connector, in your picture it looks to be in the middle? It is clearly different from the print on the OSD label as well.

12090.jpg

Cheers,

Sander

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Ps. I'd also reduce the length of the cable between the LiPo and the rest, and please don't mix up a variety of connectors, stick with Deans and use as little cable and connectors as possible to prevent cable/connector losses.

Cheers,

Sander.

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mark please update the current sensor note with this:

ONLY for the 2.01 version of the PCB !

and ONLY swap the connector leads like this IF they are soldered in the board with same colors as the power cable. (some are swapped in the board end, so they will look correct in the connector end)

if problem with current sensor:

most likely the wires to current sensor are swapped wrong,

red and black on version 2.01 boards MUST be different from the

powersupply wires in one end :-)

on the J301 power supply (this one is always right in both ends)

pin1 = orange, batt sense

pin2 = 5V out to OSD

pin3 = GND

on the current sensor J300

pin1 = current sense analog signal

pin2 = GND (on 2.01 board)

pin3 = +5 from OSD (on 2.01 board)

note on the other end of this cable it MUST be like this, the OSD connector end.

pin1 = current sense analog signal

pin2 = +5 from OSD

pin3 = GND

(all this jam is changed in the 2.03 version currentsensors, not released yet)

Edited by ThomasScherrer

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Arf, I must have some length with my setup.

And I ask me if the current and consommation are not linked with the counter that remains to 0 on the video "00:00M" ???

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Ricnolt,

Yes i known, but it's indicate to the spécification of current sensor

In that case I don't know, that's the one thing that I noticed right away.

Cheers,

Sander.

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And I ask me if the current and consommation are not linked with the counter that remains to 0 on the video "00:00M" ???

Of course, as the timer starts when current is greater than 1.2A. If current stays at 0, it will never start...

Maybe connect your OSD to the PC, load the config program, and check if the current sensor calibration are correct, and haven't been lost for some reason...

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