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Mark Harris

Intelligent Flight OSD

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We hope to release pricing at the end of the month :)

Great news guys! I'm interested! :lol:

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Cool JMS !

one more great news:

the RC servo channel input as requested is now enabled in software

a 3 position switch can be used like this:

center position = normal display all items as setup with pc program

under -40% = ALL OFF

over +40% = WGS84 GPS cordinate on, at the line the user have selected.

the values are sat like this WIDE so all RC systems will/must work.

just added timeout so once the RC servo signal has been applied,

it will show WGS cords if RC signal is lost.

I have also sat some min and max levels at -110 and +110%

just dont go over +-100% as usual.

now the two points (-40% and +40%) can be changed by the user

to fit your needs, good if your tx can not calibrate freely on a two position sw ?

it was ment to be used with a 3 position sw,

or even a rc channel allready in use for something else can be used ?

it is all up to you.

Edited by ThomasScherrer

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Fantastic, Thomas! Many thanks (in anticipation of gettnig my grimy mits on one...)

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Fantastic, Thomas! Many thanks (in anticipation of gettnig my grimy mits on one...)

I feel the same as you Doofer!!!!! :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

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Now we have added heading display, the user can now also select to have this feature displayed or not, and also several ways to do it and where as usual.

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Thomas, you seem unable to resist a challenge!

Could you address the endless "I want the info, but I don't want it clogging up my screen!" dilemma further by having TWO screen layouts?

Both user-defined, and you toggle via the (now) 'OSD off/Display1/Display2' input pin?

For example:

1. control stick down = no OSD

2. control stick middle = OSD 1

e.g. just altitude & GPS 'home' pointer; minumum of clutter, enough to inform

3. control stick up = OSD 2

e.g. lots of data, a real "Hey, something's not right, what are the temps/voltages/speeds etc.?" display.

If this isn't too hard to implement, it would be yet another completely fab feature. After all, we can't predict whether there are going to be problems up there...

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Doofer, i'm afraid we are too close to final production to add any more features, at the moment it is all beta testing. We are adding in a bootloader so new features can be added in the future however, and the user can easiliy update firmware with our config program :)

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That's excellent. Re-flashing PICs is sooooo last century!

Whatever folk may dislike about the Eagltree logger's software, being able to update firmware down a USB lead in a few seconds is top notch.

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We have so many features that we want to implement, and the thought of customers having to send their OSD's back to a distributor to get upgraded really didnt appeal to me. People not having their OSD for 2-3 weeks would not be good! How will they be able to fly with out it? :P

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Hi,

Tested the new Intelligent Flight OSD for the first time - works like a dream :D

My Sharp 1/4 CCD have some trouble with too much light..

(Anyone have a fix/solution for that?)

So video is very light, and top bar sometimes disapper - but a video fix for the OSD will make the top bar much better.

btw.

Do anyone know where i can buy the KX131 or KX151 or a OEM of this cam, cheap?

Youtube video:

Pictures:

04.jpg

06.jpg

02.jpg

07.jpg

LoopForEver

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Wow, that is washed out indeed :wacko:

What recorder are you using?

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he tried to over-load the cam to get brightness down, seems to work,

but really not the right solution since syncs will be smaller also.

crud cam :-) hehe

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>Kilrah

A chinese TV capture card on a laptop, not the best one hehe

But its the Sharp cam there is bad.

I used a pot with center leg to video source from cam, right leg to "video out", and left leg to ground.

So im putting resistence+a little ground to get light down.

But as Thomas writes sync will fail with OSD, any other way to get light down?

btw Thomas

The video fix worked fine - much more black text now, but still sync problems.

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Couldn't there be some issue with the cam giving too high a DC bias?

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Maybe - when i put a resistor in between about 100R it work ok, but sync with OSD is bad then..

Have traced back at the video line.

OUT < 75R resistor < SMD Coil < 100uF cap < ?

The cam come with a BNC>RCA converter, ok?

The cam is like this - just ist a 1/4 and PAL

http://cgi.ebay.com/Sharp-1-3-CCD-COLOR-CA...1QQcmdZViewItem

Also got a NTSC version of cam, but have not tryed that one yet.

LoopForEver

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I've tried that Chinese made Sharp CCD before in the past. I got the same washed out video result too.

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OK, no need to waste time on trying to find a solution and let's make the bin happy then :P

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>Couldn't there be some issue with the cam giving too high a DC bias?

no ! all TV systems have a decoubling capacitor

and their own DC restore circuit, to be compatible with all sources.

the OSD also have a DC blocking capacitor and DC restore.

When people have problems, I always start to say:

connect your cam directly to a TV with composite video input,

if perfect balanced picture, then proceed.

Add OSD card and see, if all still ok, then proced.

Add radio link and see what happens, if ok , then fly.

some radio links are really bad and makes the picture wierd.

some maybe lack decoubling capacitor, or 75 ohm load ?

so the picture will be TOO white or bad sync.

all video inputs (on transmitters or monitors) must load with 75 ohm first, and then the DC blocking capacitor, to be compatible with our OSD

or with most cams out there, some have DC on the video others not.

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no ! all TV systems have a decoubling capacitor

and their own DC restore circuit, to be compatible with all sources.

They SHOULD, but they don't always do, that's why i mention that.

A good example is Archos players. Their video output has no decoupling. The other one is the 510/520 video goggles, no cap on the input.

Both assume and hope the other end will do things properly so they can skip it, and both work with nearly all devices on the market.

But when you connect both together, guess what? They don't work as nobody does the job well.

To have them working you need to put an amp inbetween that will restore signal by terminating, decoupling, buffering, decoupling again and have the 75Ohm output. Then, that works. It's pretty stupid, but that's the way it goes as even if it has to be some way some will always ignore it. And that will certainly be seen more and more often with the current low-cost approaches. Can save a few cents and a lot of room in a device that has to be small by skipping the large cap? Let's do that and don't care about the small percentage of users who will end with devices that won't work together.

Edited by Kilrah

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yeah this vid is great. I received it today!

I will buy one as soon as i get one :)

Cheers

Geko

Edited by GekoCH

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