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drmarty

Camera doesn't take picture

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Well I got the chip. Thanks. I installed it using Kynar wire. some of the soldering is interesting but all accomplished without a problem. Rechecked everything and reassembled. No worky. Opened it up and the wire from A to 3 had come off. Resoldered. Rechecked all others.

Now when I plug in the camera to the receiver it beeps and the screen comes on. It will atake a picture with the shutter switch and the mode switch works. I get no response from the transmitter. I opened it up again and checked the voltages at the switch and at pin 3 and they are ok. I made a Y harness and put the camera with the throttle (I had it in the gear plug) and I checked the settings on the radio to assure complete "travel" Still no go. So, I unplugged the camera and put it in my servo tester which allows me to set the signal from 70 - 220 ms. Whe you turn it on it is at 150 ms which is the midpoint. Most systems consider 100 ms as low and 200 as high. I ran the signal down then up then back to the middle to arm it. I then tried to activate the shutter. No go. I then increased the range from 80 to 220 and then full range. (Maybe the upper limit is 230ms) Oh well, I know it will work.

What can I test? I left the camera open and I have micro probes etc for my meter. I even have an oscilloscope (although I haven't used it much.)

I am amazed at your patience as I read these pages and posts. Thanks for everything.

Marty

DrMarty

MadMarty

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There is not much to test. With everything connected and the R/C Tx turned on, try these verifications:

1) With the meter Gnd (black) lead on PIC pin 8, pin 1 should be approx +3.3VDC.

2) Pin 4 should be +1VDC to +2VDC or so. What is important is that the voltage should vary a couple hundred millivolts as you move the Tx stick up and down.

3) Shorting pin 8 to pin 3 for two seconds should cause the shutter to activate.

4) Check the wiring AGAIN. To date, the few reported problems have been related to assembly errors. If you post VERY clear photos of the PIC and all the wiring then it can be looked over by others on the forum.

If the above checks OK then you may have a bad PIC. Is this one you programmed yourself? Keep in mind that they are static sensitive so some handling care is required.

I ran the signal down then up then back to the middle to arm it.

Until you see it work, arm it by going to both stick extremes a couple of times. Be sure the stick's sub trims are centered. Try the servo tester again too.

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I appreciate your patience. I used a programmed chip I got from Richard Ingram. I was careful with it but who knows?

To check my connections I draw a picture of my hookup like I was getting ready to take it apart and then compare it to the instructions and it all looks right. pin 1 to the cap, the pos source and pin 5; pin 2 empty; pin 3 to shutter switch; pin 4 to res; pin 5 to pin 1; pin 6 empty; pin 7 empty; pin 8 to cap and ground. the Radio leads are Neg (brown) to USB housing, Pos (red) to USB the top pin; Signal (orange) to the res on pin 4. I rechecked the cap and res and they are the right values. .1microF and yel,viol,red, gold for a 4.7kohm 1/8 watt 5% tol.

Voltages: 1) pin 8 to pin1 is +3.33vdc.

2) pin 4 is as follows (I started at the center then went both ways)

150 ms = 0.51v

100ms = 0.36v

200ms = 0.65v

70ms = 0.26v

230ms = 0.73v

That looks good to me.

3) shorting pin 8 to 3 does in fact activate the shutter but of course that is chip independent (same as pushing shutter button)

4) checked and rechecked. I took a bunch of photos (all bad) Now I need to go find the manual for my digital camera so I can set it for macro - DUH. Will post photos maybe later.

I have the programmer now but I didn't order the 40pin ZIF with it thinking I either didn't need it or could procure it locally. HaHa. the board has a 40 pin socket so there is no putting the 12C508 there and even though I live in Anaheim, CA and have many places to buy stuff - Orvac, Marvac, Action, Sav-on Electronics, as well as Fry's - nobody has the ZIF socket. I ordered it 2 days ago so we'll see. Then I only need to teach myself how to program the chips I have (10 of them) and VOILA I'll be up.

Thanks for your patience. This must be a hoot watching people who probably shouldn't be trying this stuff try and do it.

Marty

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I used a programmed chip I got from Richard Ingram

From what I have seen, Richard sells a PIC chip design that is totally different from the CamMan. You'll need to follow his installation instructions to use his device. His web page is: http://webpages.charter.net/ringram2077/pi...icprojects.html

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well as I said your patience with us is profound. I ordered a bunch of stuff when I started this project and the chip came bare. It was in a piece of static foam wrapped in aluminum foil. No identifying info. I am not even sure why I think it is Richard's (tho I am sure it is now)

anyhoo, onward and upward.

boy am I red faced

Marty

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