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Ok, I had made an aluminum mount for both digital camera and wireless camera. But after thinking about it and realizing that the aluminum may interfere with the receiver and transmitter, I decided to get some clarification. Preliminary google searches seem to point to yes, that it would affect the signals. I noticed some of the users on here use pcb boards, plywood etc. Does the aluminum affect any of these two systems(900mhz tx and 2.4ghz rx)? If so, I guess I can change materials...

Oh yea, would a stainless steel sheet be a good idea? What that also deflect or affect radio waves?

Thanks for responses.

Ivan.

Edited by headhunter23

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Any metal has an effect on 2.4. Have no idea what system and ant you're using so I can't say..

Ron

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In short steer clear of anything conductive, eg metals or carbon fibre.

Terry

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Not knowing any better I made mine out of Alum. I don't see problems it created. The camera and Tx cases are metal so why would another piece of metal between them be a problem?

108-0808_IMG.JPG

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If the aluminium is in direct line between TX aerial and RX aerial then it will cause a drop out. In practice the drops are often so quick you hardly notice them.

Terry

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If you already made it then use it, you have nothing to loose. No matter what there will always be times when something is in the way.

Terry

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Yes it dose but don't panic unless your TX aerial is very close. It is a good reason to point the aerial out the bottom though.

Terry

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Ok, uhh how close is close? 1-2 inchs away?

It's starting to look like I'll be putting the tx right at the nose pointing the antenna down to be as far apart from carbon fibre and the receiver(in tail).

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Any problem with weight on the plywood Easy Star mount from Range Video?? Also what motors & props are you all using.

Edited by wa2tqi

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ply shouldn't have an affect as I understand.

As for motor, I would pick one that enables you to swing a 7X4 prop(quiet and plenty o thrust). From there it just depends on how many watts you wish to use. The stock one I think pulls 50watts max. Also depends on what voltage your using. Most seem to stick with 11.1v, for my one ez, I'm using 1000rpm/15-20amp swinging 7x4(uses 50w or 5 amps under full throttle), I get half hour on half throttle generally with giving her and not on 1200mah. But also on my other easystar I have the motor pulling 40 amps 3900rpm on 7.4v swinging 7x4 prop, this one eats batterys and asks for more but it's fast and pulls lotsa weight.

Ivan.

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Gary,

I wouldn't worry much about the material, however as per the picture you posted I'd be concerned about stripping the servo, or taking the whole servo horn off. The weight of the camera, combined with the long aluminum bracket and the vibrations in flight will not be an ideal combination.

Cheers,

Sander.

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Sander

Your right it isn't ideal. Unfortunately that's the height needed for clearing the nose. It doesn't vibrate in flight but a crash would break the upper servo case. The ship is in a constant state of evolution and the camera will likely also change again plus an Electro is hanging on the wall awaiting donor electronics.

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While it's true any metal (including e.g. the metal in the camera) might get in the way, I note that even specialists e.g. RC-Tech make brackets out of metal, so it obviously isn't a huge issue.

However, there is another issue, already aluded to i.e. if you have a 'hard arrival', the toughest thing will survive. Do you want your camera case to survive - or your bracket?!

Perhaps better that the bit that absorbs impact enegry by breaking is not the camera, or the servo gears. Humble 1/16" or 1/8" plywood structures are stiff, easy to manufacture, easily mended, transparent (ish) to radio waves, and often break first - which can be a GOOD thing.

To save servo gears (and to ease pre-flight setup), I'd also advocate for 'friction mounts': Use a slightly longer screw than usual to attach the servo horn to the servo, putting a second horn (with the mounting bush sliced off, of course) on top before putting in the screw. Tighten this so the upper horn can, with reasonable force, move relative to the lower horn/servo. Superglue your mount to the 'upper' horn.

Thus you have a horn that a) YOU can adjust on the ground pre-flight, and B) GRAVITY can adjust, and thus use up some of its enthusiasm re-positioning during a hard landing, rather than taking out servo gear teeth, cracking the camera case etc...

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There are some nice smooth faced glassfibre sheets about now - about 500mm x 350mm from 0.5mm - 1mm - 1.5mm - 2mm - 2.5mm up to 3mm thick that can be used as a mounting board. Not too expensive and should solve a few problems. Easy to drill, lightweight..tough and easy to cut (but wear a mask when doing so) ..GF dust is not the best thing to breathe in!

Edited by rossmans

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