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geogecko

Attaching Components To Perf Board

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I'm making a similar project to yours (Nav-Lights) and wondered how you attach some of the components, like the FETs or transistors. Do you glue them to the perf board first, or just put them through the holes and solder your wires up to them.

I know this is a trivial question, but I'm getting ready to make the board, and wondered the best way you found to do that. Also, how about your right angle header pins?

Thank you.

Jason.

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Components are just installed in the perf's holes and the leads are bent over as tight as possible. With some care, very few jumper wires are needed (the components' leads are plenty long). I usually add a little bit of CA or epoxy to hold the headers in place.

If the board is for a glow model then I would recommend a drop of adhesive to each component. Vibration is a killer.

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Thanks for the information. I would buy the plated through hole prototype boards to use, but they are considerably more expensive. I think I picked up a 12x4 inch perf board for $10.

I'll take your advice on the adhesive for each component, as I'm making one for a friend, and he will use his in a glow plane.

I like those FETs you are using now, the 2N7000's, have you found any that you like to use that have a rating of 500mA? I think I found some called BS170's, but I think they are being phased out. I just ordered the ones you are using in the landing gear project because it saves you a base/gate resistor.

Regards,

Jason.

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So then do you make a power and ground bus by using a wire or something, or just point to point your power and ground?

Also, have you found a good way to attach LEDs to foam models? Pictures would also be nice.

Thank you,

Jason.

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My power buss methods tend to utilize a resistor lead that other items merely connect to. Everyone has their own way of perf boarding, so just use a layout technique that is appropriate for the circuit and your mood.

When I mount my LED's in foam models, I turn down the heat on the soldering iron to a very low temp. Then I carefully melt out a cavity that is a snug fit for the LED. Wires are soldered and heatshrinked to prevent shorts. A drop of epoxy holds it in place.

Wire leads are 30AWG Kynar (magnet wire is fine too) that snake out to a convenient place nearby. The wire color can be chosen to blend with the model's color. Clear scotch tape or colored model trim covering is used to hold it along the wing or fuselage routing.

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Thank you for your replies. I cut out my perf board outline last night, now I just need to epoxy some of the components to the board, and solder it all up. I bought some of that 30 AWG wire you are talking about, so that should work well for building the circuit and for the LED wires.

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Well, I had some time to work on the project some this weekend, and I finally got my camera back from the shop. Thank you for the tips in building it. Now if I can just finish the software part!

Jason.

post-7-1080610998_thumb.jpg

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