Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Ok I don't know if that is the same thing ,On my other quads with a naze32 I can do a stick  command  left stick down and to the right and my right stick up or in mid and starte from left to right and pick one of three setting, the FC will beep too the one I pic.is that the same thing as in the video? Thanks for the help, one more thing when I do a cli Dump it puts a long code at the bottom and it won't let me scroll up and down,just stays in the down spot .....

Edited by G-unit
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 88
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

By the way, from the online discussions at rcgroups it seems I may have been the first to get the top cover off. This task should be easy but Walkera went out of their way to make it challenging. In c

But there is some good news. The 6-pin connector near the USB jack is the i2c port. The connector is a JST micro 1.25mm type. My o-scope determined that the connector's pinout is as follows: Pin 1: I2

Two different baro sensor (for altitude hold mod) are on their way to me. I ordered a BMP280 ($2) and a MS5611 ($10). The MS5611 sensor has the best precision but the BMP280 is on a smaller pcboard th

Posted Images

Quote

Ok I don't know if that is the same thing ,On my other quads with a naze32 I can do a stick  command  left stick down and to the right and my right stick up or in mid and starte from left to right and pick one of three setting, the FC will beep too the one I pic

There are three wildly different profile features. Here is my interpretation of how they were meant to be used:

(1) Stick Controlled Profiles: This Profile function's intention is mostly for experimenting with different flight controller configurations. Each Profile includes a huge variety of settings, including things like rates, PIDs, GPS settings, servo settings, RX channel limits, and so on.

Profile selection via the CLI works for this but the stick entry feature appears to be disabled on the Rodeo 150. On models that allow stick entry, some pilots use it for switching to different rates. But doing it that way is sort of a big hammer solution because there is a "Rate Profile" feature (see below) that was specifically created for that.

(2) Switch Controlled Rate Profiles: This Profile function is for changing flight behavior using alternate rate values (10 rate values per profile, 3 profiles available). Control is via a 3-position switch that is used to choose the Rate Profile 0,1, or 2. For example, Rate 0 could be for casual "exploring" flights, Rate 1 could be for stunt flights, Rate 2 could be for racing. But the chosen rate values are up to you, so the profiles can be customized to whatever you want. This is a useful feature that is setup using the Cleanflight configurator (as shown in the previously posted video).

(3) CLI only Controlled PID Profiles: The PID profiles allow you to change the flight control algorithm. Default is the standard Multiwii PID (MWREWRITE). There are several hard coded profiles available. This feature is very cool but would not be useful to a common FPV pilot.

 

Quote

when I do a cli Dump it puts a long code at the bottom and it won't let me scroll up and down,just stays in the down spot ....

I agree it is a nuisance. My workaround is to mouse click inside the CLI window, perform a CTRL-A (copy all), then paste into a text editor. This lets me see ALL the status information, including the stuff that was pushed off screen in the CLI window.

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Full disclosure: I haven't seen any official information from Walkera about using the SBus port on the Rodeo 150. And I have not tried it myself.

But let's assume that it uses the default SP3Racing port assignments. So that implies that SBus will use UART3. So try that port when enabling Serial RX in the CleanFlight Configurator.

Do not attempt to connect telemetry until the SBUS R/C Rx is working.

UART2 is available for telemetry. The TX2 and RX2 signals are on the 6-pin connector near the micro USB. I have determined the pin-out and posted the details here:
http://www.rc-cam.com/forum/index.php?/topic/4100-walkera-rodeo-150-racer-drone/#comment-28581

Now that you know the hardware connections you can follow the basic instructions that others have published about how to install SmartPort telemetry on FC's that use Cleanflight.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Other than the UART2 connection there's no other wiring to do (the battery voltage is measured by the FC). Besides Cleanflight configuration, you must enter the Taranis menus and setup the S.PORT Telemetry features (it's not enabled by default).

Link to post
Share on other sites
On June 28, 2016 at 11:45 PM, Mr.RC-Cam said:

...This camera is advertised by every seller as 600TVL. But I've heard that it is officially a 420TVL. Also, many suppliers claim it has a 110 or 120 degree lens. But the real FOV is about 170 degrees, which is much wider than I normally prefer for FPV.

 

This lens from Banggood will fit that camera and may be what your looking for.

http://www.banggood.com/Lens-D-Module-120-Degree-with-case-for-808--16-HD-Camera-Camcorder-720P-Mini-DV-p-906428.html

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the lead. The cost is a bit high for a lens. And I can see a lot of glue on the threads, so removal may be risky.

Many Chinese sites advertise incorrect specs. Have you removed it and used it on another camera to confirmed it is actually 120 FOV?

Edited by Mr.RC-Cam
Glue!
Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Mr.RC-Cam said:

...Have you removed it and used it on another camera to confirmed it is actually 120 FOV?

I have removed one of these lenses by simply slicing thru the glue flush with the lens' housing and then just applying just a slight twist to the lens. I put this lens on a Quanum Elite 25mW FPV combo from H/K.

Here is a video I made with the new lens:

I'm not sure how to tell if it is actually 120 degrees but I'll let you judge for yourself. Is is the same lens as on any 808 #16-V3 camera, so if you had one of those you could just swap lenses for a flight to see if you liked it as well. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

The official 808 #16 V3 is normally configured with a 120 lens. Since you've confirmed that Banggood's "120 degree" lens provides the same FOV then that is good news.

I've spent so many goggle hours with a 160 degree lens that I've essentially re-calibrated my brain. It no longer seems weird, but I'll probably install the 120 at some point. Thanks for posting the link.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey guys, new here to the rc-cam forum and hopped over from rc groups after I read one of your posts over there and it led me here. First, thank you for all the great information over a spread of topics Mr.RC-Cam, and it's actually your post that led me here to the second part of my post...I was hoping to find some help and after crawling through endless posts and searches I've landed exactly where I have tried to be for so long lol...I bought the rodeo kind of the way you did, priced too good to pass up, and although I'm relatively new to the sport of quad flying, I've been able to pick up on a bit fairly fast. And was hoping you or G-Unit could help me out as this is my first bit of modding...I have an FrSky x9e and love the form factor and feel of the tray as I find it more comfortable and controlled pinching and have purchased the XSR receiver, albeit without knowing what to do with it, but knowing that would be the rx needed to bind to the x9r. So if either of you(or anyone else out there) would be so kind as to maybe help walk me through with the foreknowledge that I'm kind of a noob(but educated enough to understand what's going on around me), I would be eternally grateful. I have one rodeo that has been torn down to the frame so I've seen and know where all of the internal components  are and what most all of them do, but don't want to make any mistakes now that I've, for lack of a better term, "earned my wings" from trial and error with my first rodeo...feel free to post here or pm me or heck, face time if you'd prefer lol. Like I say, I've spent weeks looking all over for anyone even coming close to the subject of changing the stock rx with one to work with taranis, this is the first light of hope I've seen since I knew the tray radio was for me. Thanks in advance, and all apologies for going off topic... Ryan

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, mybradybunch said:

Hey guys, new here to the rc-cam forum and hopped over from rc groups after I read one of your posts over there and it led me here. First, thank you for all the great information over a spread of topics Mr.RC-Cam, and it's actually your post that led me here to the second part of my post...I was hoping to find some help and after crawling through endless posts and searches I've landed exactly where I have tried to be for so long lol...I bought the rodeo kind of the way you did, priced too good to pass up, and although I'm relatively new to the sport of quad flying, I've been able to pick up on a bit fairly fast. And was hoping you or G-Unit could help me out as this is my first bit of modding...I have an FrSky x9e and love the form factor and feel of the tray as I find it more comfortable and controlled pinching and have purchased the XSR receiver, albeit without knowing what to do with it, but knowing that would be the rx needed to bind to the x9r. So if either of you(or anyone else out there) would be so kind as to maybe help walk me through with the foreknowledge that I'm kind of a noob(but educated enough to understand what's going on around me), I would be eternally grateful. I have one rodeo that has been torn down to the frame so I've seen and know where all of the internal components  are and what most all of them do, but don't want to make any mistakes now that I've, for lack of a better term, "earned my wings" from trial and error with my first rodeo...feel free to post here or pm me or heck, face time if you'd prefer lol. Like I say, I've spent weeks looking all over for anyone even coming close to the subject of changing the stock rx with one to work with taranis, this is the first light of hope I've seen since I knew the tray radio was for me. Thanks in advance, and all apologies for going off topic... Ryan

I put the same Rx in my rodeo, its not hard if you can solder thats a plus then you can hid the wires, I just ran the wire that comes with the Rx down the side of the rodeo to the S-bus pins and soldered them to the pins on the inside of the frame.I put the Rx is the stock location, but i did cut the two stand offs out that holed the VTX the ones in the middle of the frame.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I install energy management systems for a living so the soldering part isn't the biggest worry, just making sure things are where they need to be is lol... and am I correct in that your saying I need to snip the wires at one end of the XSR cable and solder them to the corresponding pins at the external rx port? Would you happen to have a pic or be able to tell me which color wire goes to each pin? Have you noticed any difference in distance? I see the XSR antennas are considerably shorter than the stock rx. And with cutting the stand offs out, how did you mound the frsky rx? Thank you very much for your reply and help, your the only person I've found who has any sort of postings on the subject. 

Edited by mybradybunch
Vernacular
Link to post
Share on other sites

I tried to post pics but it says they are to big, so lets try this, With the quad in your hands and the front of the quad facing right, you should be looking at the external rx pins, the top pins are for the Rx and bottom is a  V5 out, So top pin to the right is the Sbus wire the mid is power and the one on the left is negative, The Rx just sits

under the video Tx, I haven't seen any distance problems, hope this helps.

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 29/6/2016 at 6:45 AM, Mr.RC-Cam said:

I'm not a big fan of the Rodeo FPV camera's soft focus and color rendering. But I like its FOV (field of view) which is spec'd as 110 degrees. It does well in low light conditions too. BTW, it is a PAL camera, not NTSC.

For my first attempt at achieving better FPV video quality I installed a different micro camera. I purchased the NTSC 600TVL micro camera from BangGood but it is available from a long list of China based sellers and eBay.

CMOS-600TVL1.jpg

 

This camera is advertised by every seller as 600TVL. But I've heard that it is officially a 420TVL. Also, many suppliers claim it has a 110 or 120 degree lens. But the real FOV is about 170 degrees, which is much wider than I normally prefer for FPV.

For lowest weight I removed the existing wires and its integrated microphone. A short 35AWG cable was created that has a 3-Pin 1.25mm micro connector that is identical to the existing camera's connector (got it on eBay). Now I can simply disconnect the stock camera and plug the new camera in. Final weight was exactly the same as the original camera (2.5g).

I wanted the new camera to mount exactly the same as the original. A custom designed 3D printed mounting bracket with pivot axle took care of this.

cmos_cam2_1000.jpg

cmos_cam3_1000.jpg


Here is the 3D printer STL file: walkera_cam_mtg1.stl

The new camera goes in the Walkera Rodeo just like the original. The articulation feature works the same too. Camera transplant is a success!

cmos_cam1_1000.jpg

 

This camera has an adjustable focus (something Walkera did not permit on their camera) . I tweaked it for best far field image quality. Here's a video of the camera's maiden test flight.

My HMDVR recorder substantially reduces the image quality so keep in mind that my live video looks much better.

I have mixed feelings about this camera mod. I like its improved focus and better colors. But I'm not enjoying the über wide FOV. Unfortunately I cannot find a source for a compatible IR blocked 2.1mm lens, which is what I'd like to use instead. Maybe the final decision will involve a coin toss.

 

Hi, 

First, thank you for your work (and attached stl file!). I think i will follow all of your mod on my rodeo.

But, why that model of camera? Why not this http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-700TVL-2_8mm-Lens-170-Degree-Wide-Angle-FPV-Camera-5-12V-p-992610.html

It's a 700tvl. I'm not an expert. Why one should prefer a 600tvl over a better 700?

Thank you.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote

First, thank you for your work (and attached stl file!). I think i will follow all of your mod on my rodeo.

You are welcome. Thanks for the feedback.

 

Quote

But, why that model of camera?

If I purchased & tested every FPV camera that is sold I'd need a much bigger credit card. So you get the honor of buying it and reporting how it works out. Should be relatively risk free since the posted reviews for that Eachine camera are mostly positive. Plus it is very low cost, so not much to lose if you don't like it.

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...