Mr.RC-Cam

DiY Walkera Rodeo 150 MinimOSD Installation

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The Walkera Rodeo 150 is a small RTF racing Quadcopter (drone) that was officially released mid-2016. It's a blast to fly. I blogged about it here: http://www.rc-cam.com/forum/index.php?/topic/4100-walkera-rodeo-150-racer-drone/

beauty1_1000.jpg


But the Rodeo 150 doesn't have an OSD (on screen display) to show battery voltage, flight time, and my ham call sign. When I fly FPV I like to see those things. Plus I like being able to change PID parameters using the OSD. So naturally I decided to add it.

The Rodeo's FC (Flight Controller) runs on BaseFlight/Cleanflight firmware which supports the popular MinimOSD board. At first glance the OSD's installation seemed impractical due to the limited space in the Rodeo. Fortunately the MinimOSD is now available in a tiny version (16 x 16 mm) called the Micro MinimOSD. Although a tight squeeze, there's just enough room to fit it inside the canopy. Cost is under $10 USD from eBay and other online suppliers.

u_minimOSD.jpg

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The OSD will go inside the canopy. So the top cover needs to come off. Here's how I did that:

1. Remove antenna.
2. Remove 1.5mm hex screw (1 place) on top cover, location 2.
3. Remove star (+) screw, left and right sides (2 places), location 3.
4. Gently pry at the top cover seem at location 4 area. The case should start to separate. Just a small gap, do not attempt to remove the cover yet.
5. Continue to separate the case along location 5 (on left and right sides). Just open a small gap, do not attempt to remove the cover.
6. With the top case seam now slightly opened, use a flat tool to pry the top-front center trim at location 6 (see photo). This will require some effort but can be accomplished without harming the plastics. At the same time, press down on the front end of the vTx cover to help increase the gap between these two keyed covers. The goal is to get sufficient space between them so that the vTx cover can slip out of the keyed peg that is hiding in there.


Warning: If you muscle the disassembly you will dent/scratch/disfigure your plastic parts. Go slow, have patience!

rodeo150_top_cvr2_800.jpg

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A lot of Micro MinimOSD information can be found by searching the web. So do that now. Along with generic installation information your searching should have found this published pin-out:

uosd_pinout1_1000.jpg

 

The above pin-out drawing provides all the basic wiring details. But some of the features will not used; All I needed was power, camera video in, vTx video out, and Flight controller serial port connections. So based on the published pin-out I created a drawing specifically for my OSD's installation in the Rodeo 150, as follows:

osd_wiring1_1200.jpg


I used 3-pin JST 1.25mm micro connectors (available on eBay) to eliminate cutting the Rodeo's existing FPV related cables. That means the OSD can be removed and all the original wiring is intact. This allows me to restore the stock configuration.

osd_assy1_800.jpg
 

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BEFORE you install the OSD you should flash the MinimOSD with new firmware AND fonts. Doing it now (instead of after it is wired in the model) will be less frustrating if you run into flashing problems.

I'm using the KV Team firmware release V2.3 with my camera sync patch (my release V2.3.3). The Arduino sketch file set and fonts are found here: Click Me!

I won't explain how to flash the OSD firmware because there are endless web tutorials on how to do it. But here's some tips:
1. Launch the Arduino IDE. Load & run the file>Examples>EEPROM>eeprom_clear. This will clear out old conflicting data/settings that are in the OSD.
2. Flash the KV_Team_OSD_V233 sketch firmware.
3. Launch the MinimOSD GUI app and load the fmap font file. You have two font choices. I prefer the small fonts.
4. Set the OSD's parameters as shown in the screenshot below. Choose PAL Video (factory installed Rodeo camera).
5. Save your new configuration using the WRITE button.

osd_gui1b_800.jpg

 

A word of warning. Powering the MinimOSD from the USB interface can sometimes result in corrupt firmware or fonts. That is because the main OSD chip on the board is a Chinese counterfeit clone/copy that does not like the "5V" provided by some USB ports. Instead it needs clean 5.0V during flashing. My solution is to remove the 5V jumper on my FTDI USB serial port dongle and power the OSD from external 5VDC.

Edited by Mr.RC-Cam
Updated image.

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Next comes the most difficult part of this mod. You have to wire the MinimOSD's Rx and Tx serial port signals to the FC (Flight controller). This task requires very experienced soldering skills and good rework tools. That's because the two wires need to be soldered to the tiny pads on some 0402 size resistors.

The OSD will use the FC's serial port #2 for data communication. The serial port is needed because the FC shares real-time data with the OSD. For example, the main battery voltage is measured by the FC and the real-time value is sent (via 115K baud RS-232) to the OSD. There's a long list of data that is shared so that the OSD can post useful information that YOU want to see. Don't worry, data fields you don't care about can be disabled (hidden).

The photo below shows the Red (Tx2) and White (Rx2) solder locations. The wire is 32 AWG. The yellow wire is not used by the OSD (it is for LED control) so it can be ignored. To permit USB access to the OSD's serial port I installed 1K ohm resistors in series with the TX2 and RX2 signals (not shown in photo below, but seen in Rodeo wiring diagram posted earlier).
 

mod_wire1_1000.jpg

 

IMPORTANT UPDATE (EDIT): I found a less stressful way to connect the OSD to the CPU. The RX2 and TX2 signals are available on the 6-Pin JST connector on the top of the flight controller. The 6-pin connector is near the USB jack. The connector is a JST micro 1.25mm type. My o-scope determined that the connector's pinout is as follows:
Pin 1: I2C Clock (3.3V logic)
Pin 2: +5V
Pin 3: RX2 (CONNECT WHITE WIRE HERE)
Pin 4: TX2 (CONNECT RED WIRE HERE)
Pin 5: GND
Pin 6: i2c Data (3.3V logic)

{* Pin numbering begins towards the front of the model}

I did not wire my OSD to the JST connector because I didn't notice this alternate method until after enabling the MSP communication to my OSD. But it certainly is a much easier way to do things!

Edited by Mr.RC-Cam
Added details to 6-Pin JST

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Those of you that decide to add an OSD to the Rodeo can wire it without connectors. But my goal was to not make any changes to the existing cables. So that is why I used mating connectors to connect things up.

Here's my camera and vTx cabling:
osd_assy1_800.jpg

osd_assy2_800.jpg

 

The photos do not show the two wires that connect the OSD's RS232 TX and RX signals to the FC (flight controller). When you solder these be sure to include the two 1K ohm resistors shown in my wiring diagram posted earlier. The resistors will allow future use of the Arduino USB Adapter (FTDI interface) without needing to unsolder the FC's RS232 connections.

While at it, also solder a 4-pin connector to the following OSD pads: DTR, TX, RX, and GND. These signals will be connected to the FTDI USB board whenever you need to update the OSD's settings or firmware.

 

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After the OSD is wired up you'll need to tell the FC to send the special Multiwii Serial Protocol (MSP) data to the OSD. The CleanFlight Configuration app is used to do this. Connect your Rodeo's main USB port to the host PC and launch Cleanflight. Select Connect and then Go to the Ports page.

1. Turn on UART2's MSP (115.2K baud).
2. Save & reboot.

Here's a screenshot.

CleanFlight_MSP1_1000.jpg

 

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I won't explain how to configure the OSD or use its features. There are already too many web resources on how to do it so no need for me to repeat the details.

But here's a tip. The OSD's setup menus are operated by special stick positions from the DEVO 7 controller. However the default stick travel must be increased to enable this feature. So enter the Devo 7 Function menu and select TRVAD. Set all the ELEV, AILE, THRO, and RUDD travels to at least 110%.

Enjoy!

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man I want this in my Rodeo so bad... but don't have the skill or motivation to do all that tiny soldering and learning about how to program/flash the unit.... 

How much would you charge if I sent you my Rodeo and you did all the work? :);)

Could you take a pic of your goggle image, to show what the OSD looks like? 

really impressive work, as well as documentation!

BTW what display do you fly with?  Goggle or HMD?  I just got the new RHO lenses for my Headplay HDs and like them a lot.  Compared to the stock, big fresnels I've been flying with the image is still quite large but now sharper. 

Image-1533626181 (1).jpg

Edited by Nurburgringer

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How much would you charge if I sent you my Rodeo and you did all the work?

Sorry, but I don't offer mod services. Much too busy with my own projects.

 

Quote

Could you take a pic of your goggle image, to show what the OSD looks like? 

The OSD is user configurable and you can decide on your own how it will look. There's some screen shot examples in this rcgroups discussion:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2325491

On mine I only have battery voltage, elapsed flight time, flight mode, and ham call sign. I also enabled the artificial horizon because it looks cool and can be used to confirm the FC is OK after hard crashes. The best part about the OSD is that you can adjust the FC's PID parameters at the field (using the Devo 7), which is very convenient.

 

Quote

BTW what display do you fly with?  Goggle or HMD?

I fly using my 3D printed goggles:
http://www.rc-cam.com/forum/index.php?/topic/4026-mrrc-cams-diy-3d-printed-fpv-goggles/

The image quality in my goggles is outstanding. But now there are commercial versions similar to this DiY solution (e.g. HeadPlay HD) that look great too.

 

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Hi,

I was trying to follow your steps and add micro minim osd to my Rodeo 150. I had problem to compile KV_Team code from link above, so I decided to use MWOSD. I flashed micro minim OSD and connected according to your scheme (I connect RX and TX to UART socket). In GUI I add only AHI and timer (nothing fancy). If I try to turn on my quad (plug in the battery) it won't start (only front led is on; there is no starting bip sequence). Do you have any idea what I could do wrong?

Have you try to use MWOSD (ver. 1.6)?

Have you try to add micro minim OSD with original Rodeo 150 camera? I've read that there are some compability issues with some cameras, so I wonder if it matters that you've changed camera. 

If you use UART2 for RX2 i TX2 do you still need those two 1k resistors? Could be any difference if I solder those signals wires exactly like you? 

Regards

gc

 

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If I try to turn on my quad (plug in the battery) it won't start (only front led is on; there is no starting bip sequence). Do you have any idea what I could do wrong?

If the Rodeo's flight controller is dead while the OSD is connected to it then there is a wiring error.  For example, maybe the 5V power supply is being shorted. You'll have to troubleshoot the installation and find the problem.

But first, remove the OSD and confirm the Rodeo is Ok before you do anything!

Also, I suggest that you test the OSD and camera without wiring it to UART2. Apply 5V power only and confirm the OSD's video is working.

If all the parts are working separately then you can proceed with the installation.

 

Quote

Have you try to use MWOSD (ver. 1.6)?

No. I used my custom version. It has better camera compatibility and some minor fixes.

 

Quote

Have you try to add micro minim OSD with original Rodeo 150 camera? I've read that there are some compability issues with some cameras, so I wonder if it matters that you've changed camera. 

I did not use the original camera. The Rodeo has a PAL camera so you must configure the OSD for PAL.

You can check if there are compatibility issues with the Rodeo camera. If the OSD info is lost (and only camera image is seen) when the camera is connected, but OSD info is seen with the camera disconnected, then there is a compatibility issue. Keep in mind that configuring the wrong video mode (PAL vs. NTSC) will also cause these symptoms.

 

Quote

If you use UART2 for RX2 i TX2 do you still need those two 1k resistors? Could be any difference if I solder those signals wires exactly like you? 

Yes, you should install the resistors. If necessary, wire the OSD directly to the flight controller instead of the connector. Unfortunately it is a difficult job that requires fine pitch soldering.

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Yes, the problem was in wiring. In the original Rodeo 150 camera red wire is ground and black wire is vcc - who would have thought... 

It works with MWOSD ver 1.6. I've connected Rx and Tx to UART's pins, so it works also.

Thanks

gc

Edited by trach555

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the problem was in wiring. In the original Rodeo 150 camera red wire is ground and black wire is vcc - who would have thought...

The red wire is ground on your camera? Those Muppets!

Quote

It works with MWOSD ver 1.6. I've connected Rx and Tx to UART's pins, so it works also.

Thanks for reporting that the UART connector wiring information is valid. That method eliminates the troublesome direct soldering.

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Hi,

Have you tried to setup RSSI on OSD? 

I don't know if Rodeo 150 + micro MinimOSD has everything what is needed to monitor RSSI. I've noticed that in cleanflight it is possible to set RSSI on some channel, but I don't know if change of this require some changes in hardware. There is also some option connected with RSSI and ADC. Also, the description of MW OSD is not so clear (link below; user guide and calibration files are connected with RSSI).

https://github.com/ShikOfTheRa/scarab-osd/tree/master/OTHER/DOCUMENTATION

I've tried some setup of RSSI an I follow this movie to calibrate RSSI

But, when I turn off the transmitter and turn it on again It doesn't bind with quad, so I can't even click save and exit on OSD. Is there any trick for that issue?

Edited by trach555

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Sorry, but I haven't checked the Rodeo's Rx to see if it can support RSSI. So I can't offer any useful advice.

On my other Quads I've configured the MinimOSD with R/C RSSI using the ADC method. The RSSI signal on FrSky receivers is on a 3-Pin header, so it is not a big deal to use it on a traditional Quad's OSD. But the Rodeo's proprietary Rx has near-zero documentation. So finding RSSI on it will require some investigation.

 

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Hi everyone,

I read your topic, and thank to share this helpfull information.

I want to know if it's possible to use the Tx Rx, of the JST connector, and connect them to a OSD and baro in the same time?

 

Bye

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Yes, you can wire both OSD and Baro sensor to the flight controller's 6-pin connector.

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Hello,

 

I ready to start the add the OSD on my Rodeo, but I need a clarification. I will us The JST connector to connect the RX and TX.

The RX on the OSD must be connected to the TX of the board, and the TX on the OSD must be connected to the RX of the board? Because when I read your thread, it is TX to TX and Rx to RX.

 

Thank.

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The two series resistors will protect against reversed Tx / Rx. So start with my wiring information. If it does not work then reverse the wiring per your comments.Then come back and tell us what was the correct way.

 

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On 10/07/2016 at 7:54 PM, Mr.RC-Cam said:

Next comes the most difficult part of this mod. You have to wire the MinimOSD's Rx and Tx serial port signals to the FC (Flight controller). This task requires very experienced soldering skills and good rework tools. That's because the two wires need to be soldered to the tiny pads on some 0402 size resistors.

The OSD will use the FC's serial port #2 for data communication. The serial port is needed because the FC shares real-time data with the OSD. For example, the main battery voltage is measured by the FC and the real-time value is sent (via 115K baud RS-232) to the OSD. There's a long list of data that is shared so that the OSD can post useful information that YOU want to see. Don't worry, data fields you don't care about can be disabled (hidden).

The photo below shows the Red (Tx2) and White (Rx2) solder locations. The wire is 32 AWG. The yellow wire is not used by the OSD (it is for LED control) so it can be ignored. To permit USB access to the OSD's serial port I installed 1K ohm resistors in series with the TX2 and RX2 signals (not shown in photo below, but seen in Rodeo wiring diagram posted earlier).
 

mod_wire1_1000.jpg

 

IMPORTANT UPDATE (EDIT): I found a less stressful way to connect the OSD to the CPU. The RX2 and TX2 signals are available on the 6-Pin JST connector on the top of the flight controller. The 6-pin connector is near the USB jack. The connector is a JST micro 1.25mm type. My o-scope determined that the connector's pinout is as follows:
Pin 1: I2C Clock (3.3V logic)
Pin 2: +5V
Pin 3: RX2 (CONNECT WHITE WIRE HERE)
Pin 4: TX2 (CONNECT RED WIRE HERE)
Pin 5: GND
Pin 6: i2c Data (3.3V logic)

{* Pin numbering begins towards the front of the model}

I did not wire my OSD to the JST connector because I didn't notice this alternate method until after enabling the MSP communication to my OSD. But it certainly is a much easier way to do things!

Hi

I found this thread while searching on Google as I really would like to add an OSD for my Rodeo. I am new to the hobby and have spent many hours on Liftoff racing drone simulator which has an OSD with artificial horizon etc. Now I have taken the step to fly a real quad copter I really miss the OSD and found it really helped me in the sim, besides which battery voltage would be extremely useful as the Rodeo has quite a limited flight time and with the TX5832 FCC VTX I have added I can be up to 450 metres away when the buzzer starts.

I found your instructions quite easy to understand, I have already flashed another Quad I am in progress building with OSD using Arduino Nano added the fonts and configured it using the GUI and tested it successfully with my on table connected FPV System.

I have already ordered the OSD board and the connectors as I want a clean install and ability to remove it or move it to another Rodeo if this one does not stand the test of my novice flying skills.

There are just a three questions I would like to ask if you would not mind helping me.

1. To connect to the JST connector rather than solder the FC as you mention above, would you just patch into the pin 3 and 4 cables by cutting and soldering or is there a better way to achieve the result without modifying the rodeo in any way?

2. Secondly as I am not an electronics expert I was unsure what 1K OHM resistors to order from Ebay could you confirm if these at this link are suitable or provide me a link to those that are? I assume you just wire these in between the cable and the connector and not cross connect the cables as I cannot see clearly how you have wired these resistors in your photograph?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-1000-1K-1K00-ohm-2W-2-Watt-Metal-Film-Resistor-/180709841671?hash=item2a13255b07:g:RVgAAOxyf1dTI-4n 

3. You say " A word of warning. Powering the MinimOSD from the USB interface can sometimes result in corrupt firmware or fonts. That is because the main OSD chip on the board is a Chinese counterfeit clone/copy that does not like the "5V" provided by some USB ports. Instead it needs clean 5.0V during flashing. My solution is to remove the 5V jumper on my FTDI USB serial port dongle and power the OSD from external 5VDC"

I did not really understand this part and wondered if you could explain and maybe provide a link to the FTDI USB serial port dongle you refer to?

I am very grateful for you taking the time to put this post together and in such a meticulous and easy to understand way, I have really enjoyed reading it and looking forward to completing the mod for myself.

Best wishes

Glenn

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by BlueFish UK

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1. To connect to the JST connector rather than solder the FC as you mention above, would you just patch into the pin 3 and 4 cables by cutting and soldering or is there a better way to achieve the result without modifying the rodeo in any way?

There are no wires there, it is an empty connector. You will need a mating JST 6-pin 1.25mm pitch pigtail plug (avail on eBay).

 

Quote

2. I was unsure what 1K OHM resistors to order from Ebay could you confirm if these at this link are suitable or provide me a link to those that are?

The 2 Watt rating is physically too big. I suggest 1/8 Watt axial (avail on eBay).

 

Quote

3. I did not really understand this part and wondered if you could explain and maybe provide a link to the FTDI USB serial port dongle you refer to?

Your USB serial adapter will have a 3.3V/5V jumper on it that chooses the optional voltage that powers the user's circuit. It will be either a soldered jumper pad or a 3-pin header with plug-in shorting bar. Either case, the adapter's PCB will be labeled so you can make the choice.

When used with typical Arduino boards the voltage jumper is normally set for 5V. But when programming the OSD, which needs clean/healthy 5.0V, it is sometimes necessary to power the OSD from a more reliable source. So the jumper must be removed in this scenario. There's nothing magic about it, it is the same thing as isolating the OSD's 5V power input from the USB adapter and then powering the OSD from an external source.

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Thank you so much for the feedback, fully understood.

I did not appreciate that the connector was not used as I have not stripped the Rodeo yet.

Cables and resistor ordered and have checked my USB adaptor and see the jumper to remove.

May I ask once the mod is completed are you able to flash the MicroMinim OSD board by connecting to the Rodeo USB input for the FC or do you have to remove the top canopy to do that?

Parts should be here in a day or two and I might get time to have a crack at it this weekend, will let you know how I get on.

Thanks again your advice is very much appreciated.

 

 

Edited by BlueFish UK

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May I ask once the mod is completed are you able to flash the MicroMinim OSD board by connecting to the Rodeo USB input for the FC or do you have to remove the top canopy to do that?

You will connect your FTDI serial adapter directly to the OSD whenever you flash new firmware or character files.  So that means the canopy would come off.

I understand the concern about convenience. Although not shown in the photos, I went the extra mile and added a pigtail connector to mine that hangs outside the canopy for easy re-flashing. But for me it's a wasted feature since I've never have had to use it.

 

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