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KeithLuneau

Look at the pretty colors!

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I've been playing around with one of the cheap "1.2GHz" all in one spycams. I've gotten a pretty good range with it thanks to the GPP. Now that that is sorted out, I'm having yet another problem. This is what most of the footage I'm getting looks like... (see attached file). I've only got 4 flights with it, and all but one look like that. THe one that didn't was with the camera pointed 45 degrees down instead of straight ahead. That leaves me to believe that it's a sun/glare issue? Would making a sun shade help make the oink and blue go away? Once I get that sorted out, I'll be very happy with it for what it cost me. :)

Thanks in advance!

Keith

post-5-1098936832_thumb.jpg

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It's the camera.......It's CMOS......you need a ccd camera like this one......it's light and it works great and it's inexpensive........

http://207.207.29.130/STORE/prodinfo.asp?n...item=2&mitem=16

or this one

http://207.207.29.130/STORE/prodinfo.asp?n...item=1&mitem=16

It will run off nine volt park flyer packs........either one will........

I've run the second one off a nine volt transistor radio battery even and it still worked great.

Edited by randall1959

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Northern Lights huh? :lol:

I'm not sure a regular cam would work with the all in one ebay cam's transmitter. The three wires coming in for power all go to the camera board, the 5V, 8V, and ground. There is a mic on the camera too, and I'm getting sound, so apparently it's sending the sound to the transmitter too. I guess I'm stuck with the CMOS cam for now. I'll play around with it some more on brighter and darker days and see what works better.

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Well, I've done numerous flights with an all-in-one CMOS cam and never had a thing like this. I remember an old type I had that gave such an im, maybe the sensor types have evolved... Maybe it could be the lens too. If you have one, try a longer focal length one.

There is no problem in connecting an other cam or a digital camera to these TX. The only important thing is to power the TX with 5V.

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Maybe the lens could be causing it. It's a "pinhole" lens on this one. I would like to try anotehr one, but where can I get one?

The image looks good on the ground, and even inside with enough light. I don't think there is any problem with the camera, as fas as it being broken, it just doesn't like being in the air. :)

Edited by KeithLuneau

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I've never seen a cmos on a plane that gives good video unless it's an overcast day.

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Thanks for the videos!

Happy download wink.gif

Tell that to my dial-up modem... :lol: I'll check them out later though, it'll take a while to get them downloaded.

Keith

Edited by KeithLuneau

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Yeah, I wish I could get broadband where I live... Dialup is getting ancient, doesn't cut it anymore... :lol:

So far I've watched the short 5MB movie with the slope soaring, and the Diablotin/Tornade aero towing. That one was great! Don't you just love how the truck just wizzed on by, just a few feet from the plane?

Anyway, it looks like you get better quality from the CMOS that I have. I did notice that a few spots in the aero towing video that the orange was creeping up from the bottom of the image, like the sun was causing it. I may try pointing my camera a little more downward, and will try flying at different times of the day to see what kind of light it likes best. Nothing but rain here right now though...

Thanks again,

Keith

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Well, the weather is also awful here these days...

Yeah we really had lots of fun on that day, we were around 10 flying by the road (not many cars pass there of course). Though later that day an old man driving his car nearly smashed an X-Cell Fury heli that was ready to take off.. :wacko: I'd say he would need an eyetest as the heli was taking half of the road...

Yes, the orange shows up when there is a certain angle between the sun and the camera. But it's difficult to say.

As I told I've also used another CMOS cam where I've had to try 1000 different sun shades to get rid of this effect. You can see this here if your modem can cope :D That's our very first "decent" airborne video, awful quality... To be honest we ended up pointing the camera to the ground under the plane :lol:

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Kilrah, I see in the last video you posted, that when the camera is looking down, it does ok as far as the colors go. When the plane rolled to turn, you could see either the orange and oink, or all white washed out. That's basically what I get, one way is pink and blue, and the other is washed out white, and inbetween is actually pretty good quality.

I'll play around with this camera and see if I can get it useable, and in the meantime I'll be saving for a CCD camera to see if I can get it to work with this transmitter. The transmitter in the little all in one cam isn't like the others I've seen posted and on the project page. All the power leads go to the camera board then a few go to the transmitter. There is a mic that it wired to the camera board too so I guess I'll loose the sound. I'll take a CCD w/o sound over a poor CMOS with sound any day though. :)

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I’ve been able to successfully eliminate the reddish color seen on the cmos cameras when used outdoors. All it takes is a little piece of black electrical tape ~7mm x 4mm. Remove the lens. Cut a small piece of tape and place it over the right side of the sensor. I start by placing the tape on the far right edge. Screw the lens back in and apply power. This is to make sure the tape is not visible in the video image. If not, remove the power and lens. Move the tape to the left a mm or so. Check the video again. Continue until you can just see the edge of the tape in the video. Now back the tape off to the right so it is just out of view in the video. If there is any “tape goop” on the sensor, clean it off. I use a q-tip and windex. I don’t know if windex is the best thing to clean the sensor with but I’ve been doing it for a few years and never destroyed one. Don’t reference the attached picture for the final tape location. I just opened a non-working camera and stuck some tape on the sensor as a visual aid.

This should work on most any cmos sensor. Sometimes the camera manufacturers will place a sticker on the sensor. If they do it’s usually not covering enough of the sensor. I know you can’t do this with Aliveal cameras. At least you couldn’t a year ago. This is the camera sold by the “dragan fly” guys. The problem is there is a filter on the lens housing between the sensor and the lens. You don’t have access to the sensor without removing the filter and you don’t want to do that. Most other cmos cameras have the filter on the lens. I hope this makes sense to everyone. If not I’ll be glad to answer any questions.

Mark

post-5-1099538408_thumb.jpg

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Keith,

I forgot to mention that if you cut the mic off it should eliminate some video interference. At least this is the case for the 2.4GHz HK cameras. To test this theory blow hard into the mic and see if it causes horizontal lines in the video.

Mark

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Keith,

I forgot to mention that if you cut the mic off it should eliminate some video interference. At least this is the case for the 2.4GHz HK cameras. To test this theory blow hard into the mic and see if it causes horizontal lines in the video.

Mark

Right, I've seen that one on some bad models.

BTW, our current CMOS that work don't have any sticker.

I was also thinking that it could be l lens problem, meaning that the IR filter is not sufficient. This would be a reasonable explanation to why it only happens with the sun. That's why I would try with another "known-good" lens.

Of course the filter could also be missing on the sensor itself...

There's no problem to take the TX and use it with any other video source, as long as you power it with 5V. Sometimes the 5V reg is on the camera board along with the mic preamp, which explains why the wires go everywhere.

This is the inside of a similar model to ours (same manufacturer but different case).

post-5-1099552646_thumb.jpg

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That's some intresting information. My camera's sensor has a little sticker on it, with a rectangular cutout in the center. I'll try the tap trick and see if it makes a differance. I've also noticed that the mic causes horizontal lines. Not actually lines, but bands of brighter colors on the image. I might desolder it from the board later.

Where might I find lenses that fit these cameras? I looked a few places, but it's confusing as to what fits on what. I'd like to get rid of the pinhole lens, in hops that I can get one with a wider field of view and one that allows more light to enter.

Thanks again for all the wonderful help!

Keith

BTW, I'm going to get one of those CCD cameras and try it out, even if I do get better results fom the CMOS. As addictive as this all seems to be, I can see myself buying a more powerful and HAM approved transmitter and receiver sooner or later. :)

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Oh yes, if it's a pinhole lens it might have no IR filter, didn't think about that...

BTW I forgot this video, which is the best I've got with a CMOS.

This one is the same day but shows the limit, the white wings that are in the field create red colors when the sun reflects on them.

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I'm ready to order the CCD camera now, but first I have a question. The transmitter in my camera is very small, smaller than the face off the imager. It has 4 wires going to it, black red white and yellow. I'll take it apart again tonight and figure out which are the +V, ground, and video, but what could the 4th be for? I want to make sure the CCD cam will work before I buy it.

Thanks,

Keith

By the way, I'll check to see if there is an IR filter on the CMOS camera too.

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Ahh, ok, that makes since. I forgot that the audio would need it's own inout on the transmitter. So that means that not only should the CCD camera work, but if I decided to, I could put the mic on the transmitter too? What confuses me is that they run all the wires from the battery and 5V regulator, and the mic to the camera's board, and then more wires from the camera to the transmitter.

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...but if I decided to, I could put the mic on the transmitter too?

You existing mic would need a pre-amp. Or use an amplified mic. The RC-Cam2 thru RC-Cam4 projects should give you some ideas.

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Ahh, ok, so that explains why it's soldered to the camera's board and not directly to the transmitter. To be quite honest, I don't mind losing the sound. It adds a nice touch when you can hear the motor running, but on the Slowstick, all I can hear form it is wind noise anyway.

This afternoon, I made the first flight using the head mounted display. It was a challenge to say the least. The CRT isn't color, just b&w, so I didn't get to see if the wierd colors showed up, but I never noticed it getting washed out like it did before. I almost lost the plane though, I was flying over an open field, that was just planeted a couple of weeks ago, so all that's in it is wheat that's about an inch or two tall, for hundreds and hundreds of acres. I was flying around, and ended up getting too low and lost the video signal as I was way across the field from the receiver. I froze when I couldn't find it in the sky. Luckily I was headed back and the plane got close enough to get the video back without crashing. I need some practice if I'm going to fly like that any more. :)

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I just checked and the camera doesn't seem to have an IR filter. It can see the LED flashing on TV remotes. That may be part of the problem.

Either way, I've ordered the $39 CCD camera from Supercircuits. Should I think about replacing the pinhole lens on that one?

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